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Wolf shows 2 special spring kits for the SP101 22 LR, trigger, any body know why ? the factory ones are way to stiff.
 

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Wolf shows 2 special spring kits for the SP101 22 LR, trigger, any body know why ? the factory ones are way to stiff.
Afternoon Rhammer

Mainly because the .22 takes a little harder hammer hit to RELIABLY fire them.

I worked & worked on my SP101 .22 to get the lowest poundage, smoothest trigger pull I could & while it is very very smooth I couldn't get the double action as low as on my SP 101 centerfires.

Once everything in the trigger / hammer /main spring assemblies are smooth & polished AND the trigger & hammer are correctly shimmed THEN you can start dropping the hammer spring weight.

I was vacillating between the 11# & 12# Wolff mainspring's & shot the 11# for a while but every once in while I would get a no-fire so finally ended up with the 12# Wolff & a couple of thousand rounds later no mis-fires due to light hits (had a couple of .22 rounds with no primer compound but those aren't the gun's fault)

Best I could get was: 3.5# single action & 8.75# double action & retain full reliability.
 

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Since I use my new model .22 SP101 4" as a "fun gun" I kept swapping in springs until I found one that popped primers.

I believe I used the heaviest weight Wolff spring that comes in the centerfire kit, and haven't had any problems.

I think if we want a "slick" .22 revolver we're gonna have to get a .22 GP100 and work it over, the .22 SP101 can only be made so light.
 

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Wolff has multiple packs, even for the new SP101 22LR's. Conventionally, one pack is a "shooter's pack" which includes multiple spring weights for each spring, whereas the OTHER packs are "smith's packs" which include multiple springs of the same weight, offered in 1, 3, 10, or 25 spring packs.
 

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For the post 2011 model you will want the new Wolff spring kit
#17114. It contains a 8# trigger spring and 13#,14# and 15# hammer springs!
I too used the earlier #17113 kit and was never happy with it. Too many FTF's.
I installed the 8# trigger spring and the 13# (lightest) hammer spring.
I don't know if length, wire size or what made the difference, but the new kit Really Works!!
The DA stacks nicely and the SA is much smoother and lighter.
And the best part, after putting about 300 rounds through it I've only had 2 FTF's!
My wife and I both use this gun with bird-shot to kill rattlesnakes around our home and before, my wife couldn't operate it with the heavy springs!
 

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For the post 2011 model you will want the new Wolff spring kit
#17114. It contains a 8# trigger spring and 13#,14# and 15# hammer springs!
I too used the earlier #17113 kit and was never happy with it. Too many FTF's.
I installed the 8# trigger spring and the 13# (lightest) hammer spring.
I don't know if length, wire size or what made the difference, but the new kit Really Works!!
The DA stacks nicely and the SA is much smoother and lighter.
And the best part, after putting about 300 rounds through it I've only had 2 FTF's!
My wife and I both use this gun with bird-shot to kill rattlesnakes around our home and before, my wife couldn't operate it with the heavy springs!
I don't know why but last time at the range I had many more FTF's in DA!
I hate to make this gun any stiffer but I will probably try the 14# spring.
 

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I had to use the 14# in mine. The 13# had FTFs (2 in 50). Haven't tested the 14 yet.
 

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You may already know this, but the hammer does not strike as hard in double action.

When you fire double action, the hammer does not come back quite as far as it does when the revolver is cocked for single action. This difference has a noticeable effect on the strength of the hammer strike. So if you want the revolver to be reliable in double action, you need to fire double action during testing.

I have encountered a number of revolvers that were 100% reliable in single action, but still got occasional misfires in double action. In each case, a stronger mainspring resolved the issue.
 

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You may already know this, but the hammer does not strike as hard in double action.

When you fire double action, the hammer does not come back quite as far as it does when the revolver is cocked for single action. This difference has a noticeable effect on the strength of the hammer strike. So if you want the revolver to be reliable in double action, you need to fire double action during testing.

I have encountered a number of revolvers that were 100% reliable in single action, but still got occasional misfires in double action. In each case, a stronger mainspring resolved the issue.
I am aware of the shorter hammer throw in double action.
Last time out I shot about 300 rounds. Not 1 failure to fire in single action but too many in double action.
I am going to replace the 13# hammer spring with the 14# and see what happens.
I am not wanting to work back up to the factory hammer weight!
 

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I ran the test rounds DA. I've also found that it seems for many guns a very slow, staging type trigger pull seems to hit a little softer than a quick trigger pull (could be my imagination though).
 

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I ran the test rounds DA. I've also found that it seems for many guns a very slow, staging type trigger pull seems to hit a little softer than a quick trigger pull (could be my imagination though).
I've thought the same thing, you maybe right!
 

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I think Bowen has noted such also. Probably what happens in rapid double action the hammer is thrown further back compressing the mainspring more due to inertia which then causes the hammer to fall forward at a faster rate due to increased spring compression.
 
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