Joined
·
103 Posts
Hello all,
I have a SP101 that has an endshake issue. The origins of this come from a very high round count, mostly 158 grain 357's. The b/c gap runs between 0.0015 and 0.007. The trigger, timing, and everything on this gun is fantastic, with the exception of an endshake of 0.0055. I found endshake shims to the order of 0.004 and am interested in installing them but am concerned about truing the inside surface of the cylinder, the yoke tube appears peened from visual inspection and I expect the mating surface of the cylinder to be similar. Now I know about the special tool to take the cylinder apart and currently the only shims available are 0.004, which is perfect for my needs. I would love to send it to ruger but the gun is fantastic as it sits right now, it also has a spurred hammer that I replaced myself, trading off the DAO that it came with, and I am not willing to have it removed in order to be "factory fresh" as I have heard is often the case with warranty issues, if the warranty even still applies.
My question is how do I true the inner cylinder? And is it worth doing or should I wait until it opens up even further? The under the table "specs" call for 0.005 max, and I am just over the edge. This is my EDC and I am hesitant to use shims in any critical pressure point to begin with. If left in its current state my plan is to stick to 38's and only chalk up the mags for carry, hopefully reducing the issue entirely. Thoughts?
I have a SP101 that has an endshake issue. The origins of this come from a very high round count, mostly 158 grain 357's. The b/c gap runs between 0.0015 and 0.007. The trigger, timing, and everything on this gun is fantastic, with the exception of an endshake of 0.0055. I found endshake shims to the order of 0.004 and am interested in installing them but am concerned about truing the inside surface of the cylinder, the yoke tube appears peened from visual inspection and I expect the mating surface of the cylinder to be similar. Now I know about the special tool to take the cylinder apart and currently the only shims available are 0.004, which is perfect for my needs. I would love to send it to ruger but the gun is fantastic as it sits right now, it also has a spurred hammer that I replaced myself, trading off the DAO that it came with, and I am not willing to have it removed in order to be "factory fresh" as I have heard is often the case with warranty issues, if the warranty even still applies.
My question is how do I true the inner cylinder? And is it worth doing or should I wait until it opens up even further? The under the table "specs" call for 0.005 max, and I am just over the edge. This is my EDC and I am hesitant to use shims in any critical pressure point to begin with. If left in its current state my plan is to stick to 38's and only chalk up the mags for carry, hopefully reducing the issue entirely. Thoughts?