[tripA]

Newbie here. Just got my first gun, SP101 3".

I was trying to field strip the gun to clean it out, but couldn't for the life of me get the hammer pivot pin to budge.
I tried knocking it out and pulling the bent end, all with no luck.

Is this usual, and if so, how would you proceed?

Thanks in advance!

 

[FormerBiker]

Newbie here. Just got my first gun, SP101 3".

I was trying to field strip the gun to clean it out, but couldn't for the life of me get the hammer pivot pin to budge.
I tried knocking it out and pulling the bent end, all with no luck.

Is this usual, and if so, how would you proceed?

Thanks in advance!

You can download the manual @ Ruger.com

DISASSEMBLY
Read instructions before disassembling a gun.
An on-line video demonstrating the disassembly and reassembly of the doubleaction
revolvers can be viewed by going to the “News & Resources” section,
“Videos,” and then “Ruger Tech Tips” at www.ruger.com.
1. BE CERTAIN THE REVOLVER IS UNLOADED BEFORE DISASSEMBLY.

2. Using a properly fitting screwdriver, remove
grip screw. Remove pistol grip inserts from
grips. Grip panel locator may then be removed.
Pull grip downward off frame. Take care not to
lose the disassembly pin, which may fall free
when the grip is removed.

3. Cock the hammer. Insert disassembly pin
about one half its length into the hole at the
rear of the mainspring strut. Lacking a
disassembly pin, any similar instrument will serve (see Figure 7).

4. With thumb on hammer spur, squeeze trigger allowing hammer to go fully
forward. Lift out mainspring assembly. CAUTION: Do not remove the
disassembly pin until the mainspring
assembly is reinstalled in the revolver at the
time of reassembly. Doing so will permit the
mainspring to fly off its strut with great force
and may cause injury.

5. Pull trigger and remove hammer pivot while
holding trigger in a rearward position. Lift
hammer out of the top of the frame while
trigger is held in a rearward position (see
Figure 8).

 

[Straightwall]

Wiggle hammer back and forth while you attempt to leverage out pin from underneath with a flathead screwdriver.

 

[tripA]

Thanks FormerBiker. I suppose my message was vague and failed to mention that I'd removed the grips and mainspring... Tried pushing the hammer pivot while holding trigger back too. Didn't work.

 

[tripA]

Wiggle hammer back and forth while you attempt to leverage out pin from underneath with a flathead screwdriver.

Actually tried this too. Maybe I'm not applying enough force?

 

[FormerBiker]

Did you remove the trigger assembly and the crane?

If so set the frame an a couple of blocks of wood and try a punch.

My GP comes apart easily.


BTW I pick up a Sp101 Friday. I'll disassemble it then. If you still have issues I'll try to help then.

 

[Tater]

Doesn't sound right to me. It should push out easily by hand.

I recommend giving Ruger a call.

 

[tripA]

BTW I pick up a Sp101 Friday. I'll disassemble it then. If you still have issues I'll try to help then.

Nice! Let me know how it goes.

I'll give the thing another try before calling Ruger...

oh boy

 

[RichKeagy]

It is hard, unless you just slightly pull the trigger. Wipe the pin down when you get it out.
I have four Rugers. All have the same 'feature'. Pulling the trigger back just a little maes it easy to slip that pin out.
Do not use a screw driver to pry the pin out, please.

 

[FormerBiker]

Any luck?

Just picked mine up (bought used made in 95).

Removed grip.

pulled hammer fully back.

insert pin into hole on spring guide.

lower hammer.

remove hammer spring (note orientation for re assembly)

Hold gun in left hand.

Pull trigger back fully.

with right hand lift pin with fingernail and remove.

If still difficult to remove you can try to use a small screwdriver and very gently try to lift the pin out under the tab. Don't pry on it because damage may result. If that doesn't work soak it with a penetrating oil such as WD-40 over night and try again.

release trigger and remove hammer assembly.

Mine was a little sticky but it did came right out just like my GP.

putting it back together is just the reverse.

The guy I bought this from must have shot .38s almost exclusively so I have some cylinder clean up to do. .357s will not seat properly.

Good luck hope this helps.

 

[blackvoid]

Like RichKeagy said : "DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER"!

 

[FormerBiker]

Like RichKeagy said : "DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER"!

That's why I said to gently lift and not pry.

 

[blackvoid]

Ideally, if none of the non-screwdriver suggestions work, then find a non-marring punch of lesser diameter than the pin (brass is ideal), and press/lightly tap on the round pin directly opposite on the other side of the gun. Then, there is no chance of inadvertently bending the tab.

 

[FormerBiker]

Ideally, if none of the non-screwdriver suggestions work, then find a non-marring punch of lesser diameter than the pin (brass is ideal), and press/lightly tap on the round pin directly opposite on the other side of the gun. Then, there is no chance of inadvertently bending the tab.

That may work also but new be usually don't have a selection of drifts available.

I got mine cleaned up and the carbon out of the cylinders and now the .357s fit fine. Ready for the range next week.

 

[ADP3]

Sand off the tip of a golf tee to use for a punch if you don't have a brass one available. You may break a couple if the pin is really stubborn. Soak the pin in penetrating oil ,NOT WD 40, first.

Best Regards,
ADP3