Speed Strip Kit
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I'd never heard of them until now. Personally I think it's a solution to problem that doesn't exist. The whole, "Ruger .22 auto pistols are extremely difficult to field strip and reassemble.", is way overblown. If you follow the instructions it's not hard at all. I'd say it's something the average 12 year old should be able to do easily.The first few times everything is stiff and you probably do need a small dowel to get it apart but after couple of takedown cycles things break in come right apart and go back together.
Save the $45 and spend an hour taking it apart and putting it back together 4 or 5 times instead.
Save the $45 and spend an hour taking it apart and putting it back together 4 or 5 times instead.
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That's my problem "spend an hour". I've only taken down my MKIII 3 times and I struggled each time. I'm sure there are many who can do it in a minute.
Although the Ruger take down and re-assemble "problem" is a myth It seems from posts and comments from others, the re-assemble is an issue. At this point, I could believe the gun in question is more difficult to assemble than most others. Great gun otherwise.
Although the Ruger take down and re-assemble "problem" is a myth It seems from posts and comments from others, the re-assemble is an issue. At this point, I could believe the gun in question is more difficult to assemble than most others. Great gun otherwise.
Stick with it. Three times is just starting to get the pieces loose enough to slide together smoothly. Try doing it 3 or 4 times right in a row. You'll have an "ah-ha" moment when you get the feel for it. Three repetitions. isn't enough to get good at anything.
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16,265 Posts
I had my "Ah Ha" moment on my 2nd go round with the MKIII field strip. The 1st time I tried to follow the direction in the manual (It took me nearly an hour to get the job done ... but my wife got a good laugh at the sounds and words comming out of the basement). The 2nd time, I watched the Ruger field strip video several times before hand and was able to complete the strip, clean and reassembley in 30 minutes. Now I've got it down to a fine art and no longer dread the process. Hope it helps!
http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/N-RugerTV.html#
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16,471 Posts
The Ruger MK series field strip is certainly not a myth. This didn't just start ... it has been a difficult task since the first Ruger Standard was shipped in 1949. When I owned my gun shop, at least a couple guys would come in every month with a disassembled MK Series in a bag. After I showed them how to reassemble, they usually caught on but you could plan on seeing some of the customers 2 or 3 more times before they either learned the tricks or got rid of their pistol. I'll bet I trained a thousand people in the 31 years I had my shop.
Most people never bother learning how a MK series pistol works. The field strip secret lies in the position of the hammer and hammer strut. To compound the issue, Ruger installs a cross pin that couldn't possibly be in a worse position to hang up the hammer strut.
The confusion starts when you have to dry fire to release the main spring tension on the hammer strut before you can unlatch the mainspring housing. Of course that isn't possible with a MK III unless you have an empty magazine in place ... thanks to the magazine disconnect. After you've had the receiver all apart, the hammer must be fully to the rear to put the bolt back in and fully forward to reassemble the mainspring housing.
When you get ready to put the mainspring housing in place, you must hold the trigger back and use a pencil or other tool to push the hammer forward. Again with a MK III, the trigger doesn't release the hammer without a magazine in place. When you seat the mainspring housing, the hammer strut must be placed in the "pocket" for the mainspring (AKA hammer spring). Then you can close the "knife blade" and latch it shut. The first thing you always do is try to operate the bolt by pulling back on the bolt ears. If the hammer strut missed the pocket, the bolt won't pull back. Release the knife blade latch and try again. Before the hammer strut will align, the muzzle must be pointed up at a 60 degree angle. Once you get the angle of the dangle right, it's a piece of cake. The Ruger manual has a decent procedure but it doesn't explain why you must hold the gun in some bizarre manner so most people end up thinking it is some cult worship and do it wrong.
I'm with Wuchak. The speed strip kit is just another gimmick to relieve you of money. Use the manual or the video on Ruger's web site and learn how to disassemble / reassemble then spend the money on ammo.
BTW, all this and much more are included in the free MK Series IBOK. If you have 10 or more posts, look for it in the NCO Club Library.
Most people never bother learning how a MK series pistol works. The field strip secret lies in the position of the hammer and hammer strut. To compound the issue, Ruger installs a cross pin that couldn't possibly be in a worse position to hang up the hammer strut.
The confusion starts when you have to dry fire to release the main spring tension on the hammer strut before you can unlatch the mainspring housing. Of course that isn't possible with a MK III unless you have an empty magazine in place ... thanks to the magazine disconnect. After you've had the receiver all apart, the hammer must be fully to the rear to put the bolt back in and fully forward to reassemble the mainspring housing.
When you get ready to put the mainspring housing in place, you must hold the trigger back and use a pencil or other tool to push the hammer forward. Again with a MK III, the trigger doesn't release the hammer without a magazine in place. When you seat the mainspring housing, the hammer strut must be placed in the "pocket" for the mainspring (AKA hammer spring). Then you can close the "knife blade" and latch it shut. The first thing you always do is try to operate the bolt by pulling back on the bolt ears. If the hammer strut missed the pocket, the bolt won't pull back. Release the knife blade latch and try again. Before the hammer strut will align, the muzzle must be pointed up at a 60 degree angle. Once you get the angle of the dangle right, it's a piece of cake. The Ruger manual has a decent procedure but it doesn't explain why you must hold the gun in some bizarre manner so most people end up thinking it is some cult worship and do it wrong.
I'm with Wuchak. The speed strip kit is just another gimmick to relieve you of money. Use the manual or the video on Ruger's web site and learn how to disassemble / reassemble then spend the money on ammo.
BTW, all this and much more are included in the free MK Series IBOK. If you have 10 or more posts, look for it in the NCO Club Library.
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108 Posts
I had trouble with my 1st MKII way back when but simply followed the instructions line for line then repeated about ten times to sink it into memory Once I learned the steps and paid attention to what was moving where, it became easy.
Once I learned the steps and paid attention to what was moving where, it became easy.I've had my MKII for 25 years and disassembly/assembly is easy. years of use has made any stiffness disappear. The only problem I've had was after not shooting it for about 5 years and forgetting the tricks , but it soon came back. I assume the MKIII is not that much more difficult , besides having to use the magazine. It'll work itself smooth in no time. Don't waste your money , you can buy 3 bulk packs of federal at walmart with the money you save.
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152 Posts
Well I have had my Mk I for fifty years now and the reassembly is still somewhat of a PIA compared to some pistols such as the S&W Model 41, but nothing is perfect. My two Mk III (22/45 Hunter & 6" Standard) are a real PIA because you have to watch for things that could fall out and barrel receiver alignment is the real problem with new Mk III Standard and I had to actually do some lapping to get the plug to move easily through the top hole.
The Mk III Standard was a return to store because the guy could not get the gun apart to clean before firing. It had sat for a few years (2 to 4 is a guess) unfired with original oil that dried out and the gun was a mess to clean, but worth the $50 I invested I am sure.
My only dislike is it is not D&T for scope rail, but the grandson will have to make do I guess.
The Mk III Standard was a return to store because the guy could not get the gun apart to clean before firing. It had sat for a few years (2 to 4 is a guess) unfired with original oil that dried out and the gun was a mess to clean, but worth the $50 I invested I am sure.
My only dislike is it is not D&T for scope rail, but the grandson will have to make do I guess.
"I'd say it's something the average 12 year old should be able to do easily."
That made me laugh, because I was 12 years old when I talked my mom into buying me my first Ruger 22 auto. I remember wondering why the manual said to hold the gun at such and such an angle but finally realised it was to get the hammer strut aligned with the mainspring plunger.
The Ruger Std. 22 Auto, one of the few things this once 12 year old actually got back together after taking apart.
That made me laugh, because I was 12 years old when I talked my mom into buying me my first Ruger 22 auto. I remember wondering why the manual said to hold the gun at such and such an angle but finally realised it was to get the hammer strut aligned with the mainspring plunger.
The Ruger Std. 22 Auto, one of the few things this once 12 year old actually got back together after taking apart.
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