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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It appears that it is not an ammo issue. I have tried different brands. There are clear strike marks on the casings, but they are lite strikes. They are not as deep as the ones that go bang. What happens is that I pull the trigger and nothing happens. They all go bang on the second strike. This is now happening 1-2 times in each 10 round magazine. I have cleaned the gun and the symptoms persist. Is there a special place or way to clean it or is something bad inside the trigger and firing mechanism? I had to send the pistol back once already for failure to feed issues. They seem to have resolved that. Now the damn thing needs second strikes. Any ideas? Thanks.
 

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I was discussing this with another SR22 owner... Do you have pics of an empty with the striker mark? Hers a pic of mine on several different cases:
 

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It appears that it is not an ammo issue. I have tried different brands. There are clear strike marks on the casings, but they are lite strikes. They are not as deep as the ones that go bang. What happens is that I pull the trigger and nothing happens. They all go bang on the second strike. This is now happening 1-2 times in each 10 round magazine. I have cleaned the gun and the symptoms persist. Is there a special place or way to clean it or is something bad inside the trigger and firing mechanism? I had to send the pistol back once already for failure to feed issues. They seem to have resolved that. Now the damn thing needs second strikes. Any ideas? Thanks.
I doubt it is the trigger. Once the hammer is released, the hammer hits the firing pin and no amount of dirt in the trigger can slow that down.

Each time I clean my SR22, I use a small dental pick... the tip is prety much like a needle. I carefully poke it in and around the firing pin and pull lots of crud out of the area. I would guess a build up of dirt will prevent the firing pin from moving fully forward.

(FWIW, I have about 5600 rounds fired thru my SR22)
 

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Clydesdale, Another issue common to all pistols is ... excessive oil. Seems when people clean their guns, they think oil prevents wear so they hose down the moving parts in the receiver. In fact oil really doesn't prevent wear at all, it just mixes with the nasty powder residue that is blown back into the receiver. This makes a sludge that INCREASES friction, instead of reducing friction.

Try this .... field strip your pistol, do a thorough job of cleaning all the internal parts ... especially the firing pin channel. This can be done easily by hosing the receiver down with powder solvent, let the gun sit for a few minutes to let the solvent work, then blow the receiver out with compressed air. Do NOT lubricate the internal parts. Wipe the slide, frame, etc down with a dry cloth and reassemble. If the pistol still is not getting 100% primer ignition, there is obviously a problem with hammer energy (weak hammer spring or hammer dragging on frame) or a firing pin issue.
 

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Another possible cause is a dirty chamber. I would thoroughly clean the chamber with a .223 brush.

One way to test this is to open and lock the slide to the rear, then insert a live round of .22 into the chamber. It should slide easily all of the way into the chamber. If it doesn't slide all of the way into the chamber, then your chamber is dirty.

If there is any resistance, your first strike by the firing pin pushes the round all of the way in, but this absorbs the full force of the firing pin. Then, once the first strike has seated the round completely into the chamber, the second strike will have full force and ingnite the primer.

I have seen this happen on many .22's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Iowegan,
I might be guilty of the oil. When you say "field strip" are you talking about more than just removing the slide, recoil spring and then giving it a good cleaning? I have never taken it down more than that. To be honest, I am not sure where the firing pin channel is. So, I will have to look at my owner's manual for a parts break down.
Do you have a video link or further description about cleaning this area of further stripping this pistol? My failure to feed issues were corrected by Ruger. If I could now just solve this problem, then I would be very pleased with this pistol. Thanks.
 

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No need to strip down further. Once you got the bare slide, spray it down good with a cleaner that evaporates (brake cleaner can be used) or some solvent, then ONLY oil the slide rails and NOT the area on the underneath side of the slide to the rear of the ejection port.

The firing channel is on the left half of the slide in this pic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks AgentOrange. This might in fact be due to over oiling. I usually oil the points on the receiver and the slide where they contact. I also oil the outside of the barrel. Should I only oil the receiver where the slide will contact it? Then work the slide back and forth a few times to get it lubed up? I take it no oil should go into the hammer area as well, correct? Thanks.
 

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Interesting post since I now have the exact same issue.

Had issues with my LC9 and while it was at Ruger used my SR22 more...or tried to. Second or third strike needed on about 1/3 of trigger pulls...using various ammo including my standby CCI mini mags. So....

cleaned it well and went back to range today. Results: little better but issue persists.

odd since it has been worked weekly for a couple of years...without any issues.

So, calling Ruger tomorrow and one week after getting my LC9 back will be sending the SR22 back for help. Sure Ruger will fix but not a good month for my Rugers.
 
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