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Discussion Starter #1
I was just looking over my new sr9 and noticed in the manual that it doesn't give much information on lubing the gun other than cleaning the barrel. I clean my glock with Hoppes # 9 solvent and lube with remoil/w teflon.
Seeing how the frame of this gun is very much like a glock I assume you would lube it the same way. The underside of the slide has a heavy coating of grease that was applied at the factory,should this be cleaned off before firing and just oil used.
 

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I don't know how new you are at shooting/cleaning firearms but the gun, new from the factory should be cleaned and as much powder residue, grease, oil removed as as possible. Every rifle, pistol, and shotgun that I own had to be cleaned when it came out of the box. Clean it until you're satisfied then place a light coating of your favorite gun oil in/on it. Be sure to wipe off any residue and run a clean dry cleaning cloth through it before fireing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Cyrille,
Yes I plan on removing all the heavy grease and oil from my new sr9 before I shoot it. I know all new guns come with excess oil and grease. My glock did and so did both of my berettas. I only wish the ruger manual would show all the oiling points like the glock and beretta manuals do.
 

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Many years ago I started collecting ultra high performance/precision German airguns. That was when I learned about molybdenum disulphide(moly), a matchlessly slick lubricant at that time. On my stainless Rugers I mix a little moly paste with Remington REMOIL which is a teflon lube. The mixture stays put. I use it on my P90 on the slide and hammer where they contact each other as the slide recoils rearward over the hammer face. At this time I cannot comment on specific lube points on the SR9.......I'll have to wait till I get one. But after you get more familiar w/ your new pistol you can experiment a bit w/ your own lube recipes.
 

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Howdy PaKettle,
When I sent Ruger my registration papers for my 95 and 345, I included a letter asking about solvents oils and lubes. I was interested in their recommendations and had concerns about the polymer frames being damaged by using the wrong chemicals on them. I asked about slide lube as well.
I received an answer via email from a technician in Arizona. I was told that any solvent would work, but Gun Scrubber Spray may cause the polymers to turn white.
Although he did not recommend a certain brand of oil or lubricant, they stated any oil would work on all the interior parts as well as the slide.
Well-noted gunsmith Larry Crow once said the only place grease is needed was on the sear and every other part of any firearm should be oiled before reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the lube info Drummer. I have used the new synthetic gunscrubber on my polymer glock and beretta neos without any problem
Just read the January guns and ammo magazine on the sr9 and it was quite impressive. The report goes on to say that this gun is not quite so picky about over lubing as the glocks are. Its a big no no to get solvent or oil in the glock firing pin channel, but on the sr9 the striker is all self contained so it looks like you don't have to worry about over lubing.On my slide the under side was full of grease, I cleaned off a little of it and oiled the slide rails.
Im going this next week and fire the sr9, i hope it performs as well as the test gun did.
 

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I always clean new/new to me firearms. Reason is to become familar with it, check it out and to lube.
I oil pins/pivot points and grease slide rails. Lube very lightly then wipe off, there will be enough left to do the job.
Have fun with the new one.
 

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I almost exclusively us Ballistol as a lubricant. It is a non-toxic mineral oil that has been used as a gun cleaner/lube since the first world war. It is also the best lubricant I have found for duck hunting in salt water. One application will do the trick to keep the rust off your shotgun as it neutralizes the salts. They have a web site:

http://www.ballistol.com/about.htm
 

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For the slide action, the 'rails' on the frame are on the cam block (part #28) and at the very back of the frame. I'd also possibly put a drop where the trigger bar (part # 40) connects to the trigger bar reset (part #44). Also, the side of the trigger bar kind of drags against the inside of the frame, so a bit of lube there may help a little.

-JT
 

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How's everybody doing? New guy lookin for some SR9 input.. I'm a first time Ruger owner and was very pleased when I saw the new SR9. I've never been drawn to a Ruger before so I was shocked when I realized who the manufacturer was (no disrespect). Anyway picked one up at the local gun show and couldn't wait to put some rounds through it. I field stripped it and gave it a good cleaning (best to my own knowledge) NOB. First 100 rounds and I was pleased, went back for some more and now I'm worried. During the next session with 200 rounds the trigger would not reset to the ready position (used the same Remington 9mm/230 grain on both outings). The bullet indicator was up, but the trigger was still back in the fired position? I had to cock the slide back slightly to get the trigger to return to ready on 5 different occasions. I'm wondering if anyone else had this problem? And does anyone have a fix that they can school me with?
 

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Hi Guys! Here's my 2 cents worth. After shooting or hunting I spray and then wipe my guns down with Remoil. It is light, but it gives me good enough rust protection for a couple of days until I can clean my gun thoroughly. When I clean my guns I use Hoppes #9 and then, after dry wiping, I cover and wipe down with Break Free. For slides and friction points I dab a little M1 Garand grease on the spot. I really like the M1 grease because it doesn't disappear when rapid fire produces a lot of heat. Of course, if you're going to use something heavy like M1 grease on slides you need to be committed to cleaning your gun fairly often.
 

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I have been using Hoppes #9 and TW25b. Seems to work fine for me.
 

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CLP and tw25b
 
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