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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Super Redhawk that works fine after disassembly and reassembly, but after having fired a few shots it has some sluggishness on the trigger reset and pulling the trigger in DA mode only turns the cylinder without moving the hammer at all. It is no big deal since I only fire it single action, but this is a competition gun and I don't want any of it malfunctioning in an important match.

Any ideas?
 

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WhistlerSWE, The "cylinder rotation without cocking the hammer" syndrome is because the trigger is not fully resetting. This is common if the trigger spring has been replaced with a reduced power spring or if the trigger plunger has rough spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Iowegan. I know its been a while since this thread started, but by now I have changed to heavier springs (Wolff shooters pak) since the old ones were the factory originals that had been cut and filed shorter. I have disassembled every tiny part of the trigger mechanism and deburred and polished everything according to the Iowegan Gun Guide.

My problem with the cylinder turning without cocking the hammer seem to be solved, but I still have some problems, appearing about every 12-15 rounds:

* The cylinder is sometimes pushed forward by the hand motion and binds on the barrel. The gap is when all is well is .006".

* The cylinder stop sometimes does not release, engaging the hand but not being able to rotate the cylinder.
 

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WhistlerSWE..... I believe Iowegan nailed it, until you laid out the last additional dope. Sounds like the smith who built your beautiful in photo SRH----aren't you talking about the .357 Maximum SRH----doesn't understand the mechanism quite as well as he may have represented.

First, any .357 Maximum should exhibit .003-inch cylinder/barrel gap at most, with .001-inch the measurement Bill Ruger, Jr. and I were after and Ruger essentially was able to achieve, with some production fit-ups running .002-inch. High pressure revolver rounds depend on firm dimensions with tight cylinder gaps to achieve desired velocity.

You now report four distinct problems:
1) trigger reset due to light rebound spring.

2) timing.

3) cylinder endshake.

4) cylinder/barrel gap.

When endshake exceeds cylinder gap, the pawl pushes the cylinder face against the barrel face. This makes for a hard trigger pull and may easily affect timing.

These problems should be addressed in this order:
1) endshake.
2) reset.
3) timing.
4) gap.

As the frame window was enlarged to accommodate the .357 Maximum cylinder, someone in a hands-on position will have to evaluate the fix. Timing might best be addressed with all-new lockwork.

Once endshake is eliminated, cylinder gap may be tightened. To reduce gap, remove barrel and remove one thread from the barrel shoulder on a lathe. The barrel should hand-tighten to about 10-degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). After the barrel is properly fit, remove it to turn off just enough of the barrel face to achieve a cylinder/barrel gap of.001" to .003".

Note: my take is based on your descriptions. An evaluation must is done gun-in-hand.
David Bradshaw
 

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WhistlerSWE.... let me correct my suggestion you remove the depth of one thread from the barrel shoulder, which applies when you have a front sight to bring to TDC (Top Dead Center).

If we are talking about your custom SRH .357 Maximum, you only need remove enough barrel shoulder to allow free cylinder rotation. Once you are able to eliminate endshake, bring the cylinder gap down .001-inch, if possible. Since you indicated a possible high spot on the cylinder face, any out-of-square condition of the cylinder must be cured to insure free rotation with minimal gap.

While cylinder/barrel gap (to .012-inch or more) has little or nothing to do with accuracy, the greater the gap, the lower the velocity.
David Bradshaw
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you, I will begin with trying to fix the endshake with some shims. Having a hard time finding both shims and crane cutter. Shims are available at Brownells, but the cutter seems to be discontinued.

I found an old post by Iowegan where he stated that oversize bullets increase the endshake progression, very reasonable when you think about it. I believe this gun was optimized for .357 jacketed bullets, but I've only shot .358 lead bullets in it. I have a .3585" reamer, perhaps the first thing to do after fixing the endshake is to ream the throats so that it won't happen again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've installed a .002" endshake bushing.
When the cylinder was disassembled (used the Brownells split-and-drilled bit for that) I also reamed the chamber throats to .3585" and also removed the very badly done red/brown blueing from the custom cylinder. I'll let it be in the white for a while until I've decided on chrome/nickel/whatever.

Will take her to the range tomorrow.

 
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