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Discussion Starter #1
I plan on loading 9 millimeter . Can you load a shell multiple times ? Does everybody clean their cases ? in what instance would you not use a case do to condition ?
 

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I don't like loading 9mm. The case is tapered and I find that it takes more effort than loading any of the other calibers I load for.

2) Yes - you can load a shell many many times

3) Yes - clean to keep dies in tip top shape and because I like shiny and clean brass

4) Cracked, bent, rusted/tarnished that would not come out, anything that doesn't look right or seem right. No sense trusting a several hundred dollar gun to a few cent piece of questionable brass. All my bad brass goes to the recycler.
 

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From your question, you clearly need to read/watch some stuff on your own before asking questions. I'd suggest starting with the info contained on reloading web sites like Lee, Lyman, and RCBS Step by Step Reloading

Then when we answer your questions with stuff like "Yes, otherwise there wouldn't be much point to reloading." you'll have a better chance of having the answer make sense.
 

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Ausmerican.
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I don't like loading 9mm. The case is tapered and I find that it takes more effort than loading any of the other calibers I load for.

2) Yes - you can load a case many many times
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3) Yes - clean to keep dies in tip top shape and because I like shiny and clean brass.

4) Don't load anything that doesn't look right or seem right. No sense trusting a several hundred dollar gun to a few cent piece of questionable brass. All my bad brass goes to the recycler.
Pretty much me as well.
 

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Read a good manual as well. I recommend the Lyman 49th and the Lyman Pistol & Revolver III. The 49th is more complete and has topics relevant to even the most advanced reloader. At least I hope that's still the case, I'm still using a thoroughly used 46th edition and I have the P&R III for updates with newer powders.

But to answer the OPs original questions, you can load 9mm cases for quite some time and cleaning cases is largely cosmetic, but it will also help with inspecting your cases. The most likely thing to make you discard a case will be splits on the casemouth. 9mm is a mighty might, pound for pound one of the strongest handgun cases you can load. I'm still doing it after starting in 1986. You can buy cheap 9mm everywhere, but nothing will give you the satisfaction of loading your own where it is easy to better factory load accuracy! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for answering all my questions. I've neen researching the most cost affective way to start loading and (of course) ended up with a Lee product. I have ordered a deluxe 4 hole turret press (kit) that comes with most of what you need to get things started . In addition, I also ordered the auto disc riser. The deluxe pistol 9mm 4 die set and a Tp safety prime up (kit) . Other than the powder ,primers and bullets I think I have everything to get started. Those of you familiar with Lee presses ,any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm a. Handy person and I'm not scared to tinker or tweak things. After all, i have no trouble breaking down and reassembling my Mark lll pistols. LOL
 

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Welcome to reloading and thanks for asking our advice.

Thanks for answering all my questions. I've neen researching the most cost affective way to start loading and (of course) ended up with a Lee product. I have ordered a deluxe 4 hole turret press (kit) that comes with most of what you need to get things started . In addition, I also ordered the auto disc riser. The deluxe pistol 9mm 4 die set and a Tp safety prime up (kit) . Other than the powder ,primers and bullets I think I have everything to get started. Those of you familiar with Lee presses ,any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm a. Handy person and I'm not scared to tinker or tweak things. After all, i have no trouble breaking down and reassembling my Mark lll pistols. LOL
The Lee Turrets (the Deluxe and the Classic) are excellent presses for your purposes unless you need more than 100-150 rounds per hour. The Classic Turret is superior to the Deluxe Turret, but they operate in exactly the same way and for the 9mm you will be well served by either.

The book "ABC's of Reloading" would be a good place to start reading, As well as the early chapters of any reloading manual, whose early chapters are invariably devoted to how reloading is done. Since different authors/editors give different emphasis and have different writing styles reading several at your local library would be a good idea.

When you do get your press, and if you use the auto-indexing, be SURE to NEVER turn the turret by hand backwards if you feel any resistance. That is how the square ratchet gets broken. It is a fifty cent part, designed to break before anything more expensive breaks, but it is irritating when you do break one. They give you a spare with the press. The ratchet engages when the ram moves downward, so moving the ram upward a quarter inch disengages the ratchet, but that is easy to forget. You can also grab the indexing rod with thumb and forefinger, raise the rod and drop it back down to disengage the ratchet.

The Safety Prime little "Pez Dispenser" primer dispensing tool must be VERY CAREFULLY adjusted and operated gingerly to avoid dropping primers on the floor, but once you get the hang of it, works like a champ.

Reloading isn't rocket science, but it does involve smoke and flame and things that go very fast, so care is warranted. But if you can bake a cake and change a tire without mishap or losing your lug nuts, you can do it.

Good Luck, I will post my "10 Advices for the Novice Handloader" next post. It has been a while since I posted it.

Lost Sheep
 

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My 10 Advices for the Novice Handloader

I have thought of a few things I think are useful for handloaders to know or to consider which seem to be almost universal, so I put together this list.

So much is a matter of personal taste and circumstance, though. So, all advice carries this caveat, "your mileage may vary".

So you can better evaluate my words, here is the focus of my experience. I load for handguns (44 Mag, 45 ACP, 45 Colt, 454 Casull, 9mm, 357 Mag, 480 Ruger) a couple hundred per sitting and go through 100 to 400 centerfire rounds per month. I don't cast....yet.

When I bought my first gun (.357 Magnum Dan Wesson revolver), I bought, at the same time, a reloading setup because I knew I could not afford to shoot if I did not reload my own ammo. It cost me about 1/4 of factory ammo per round and paid for itself pretty quickly. I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted my press on a 2 x 6 plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table.

I still believe in a minimalist approach and and try to keep my inventory of tools low. I do not keep my loading gear set up when not in use, either, but pack them away in small toolboxes until the next loading session.

Now, here are my Ten Advices.

Advice #1 Use Reliable Reference Sources Wisely - Books, Videos, Web Sites, etc.

Study up in loading manuals until you understand the process well, before spending a lot of money on equipment.

I found "The ABC's of Reloading" to be a very good reference. Short on loading data but full of knowledge and understanding of the process. Check out offerings in your local library. Dated, perhaps but the basics are pretty unchanging. I am told the older editions are better than the newer ones, so the library is looking even better.

Read as many manuals as you can, for the discussion of the how-to steps found in their early chapters. The reason you want more than one or two manuals is that you want to read differing authors/editors writing styles and find ones that "speak" to you. What one manual covers thinly, another will cover well so give better coverage of the subject; one author or editor may cover parts of the subject more thoroughly than the others.

As far as load data in older manuals, the powder manufacturers and bullet manufacturers may have better information and their web sites are probably more up to date. But pay attention to what the ammunition was test-fired from. (regular firearm vs a sealed-breech pressure test barrel, for example)

The public library should have manuals you can read, then decide which ones you want to buy.

There are instructional videos now that did not exist in the '70s when I started.

Richard Lee's book "Modern Reloading" has a lot of food for thought, and does discuss the reasoning behind his opinions (unlike many manuals, and postings). Whether right or wrong, the issues merit thought, which that book initiates. It is not a simple book, though and you will find it provocative reading for many years.

Only after you know the steps can you look at the contents of of a dealer's shelves, a mail-order catalog or a reloading kit and know what equipment you want to buy. If you are considering a loading kit, you will be in a better position to know what parts you don't need and what parts the kits lack.

Advice #2 All equipment is good. But is it good FOR YOU?

Almost every manufacturer of loading equipment makes good stuff; if they didn't, they would lose reputation fast and disappear from the marketplace. Better equipment costs more generally. Cast aluminum is lighter and less expensive but not so abrasion resistant as cast iron. Cast iron lasts practically forever. Aluminum generally takes more cleaning and lubrication to last forever. Lee makes good equipment, but is generally considered the "economy" equipment maker, though some of their stuff is considered preferable to more expensive makes. Just think about what you buy. Ask around. Testimonials are nice. But if you think Ford/Chevy owners have brand loyalty, you have not met handloaders. Testimonials with reasoning behind them are better. RCBS equipment is almost all green, Dillon, blue, Lee red. Almost no manufacturers cross color lines and many handloaders simply identify themselves as "Blue" or whatever. Make your own choices.

On Kits: Almost every manufacturer makes a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A kit is decent way to get started. Eventually most people wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops, but you will have gotten started, at least.

On Kits: Almost every manufacturer (and most major retailer) assembles a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A kit is a decent way to get started without too much prior experience. Eventually most reloaders wind up replacing many of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops (negating the savings you thought the kit gave you), but you will have gotten started, at least.

On building your own kit: The thought processes you give to assembling your own kit increases your knowledge about reloading. You may get started a couple weeks later than if you started with a kit, but you will be far ahead in knowledge.

Advice #3 While Learning, don't get fancy Progressive or Single Stage? Experimental loads? Pushing performance envelopes?

While you are learning, load mid-range at first so overpressures are not concerns. Just concentrate on getting the mechanical steps of loading right and being VERY VERY consistent (charge weight, crimp strength, bullet seating depth, primer seating force, all that). Use a "fluffy" powder that is, one that will overflow your cartridge case if you mistakenly put two powder charges in it.

Learn on a single stage press or a turret press, or if on a progressive, only once cartridge at a time. While you can learn on a progressive press, in my opinion too many things happen at the same time, thus are hard to keep track of (unless you load singly at first). Mistakes DO happen and you want to watch for them ONE AT A TIME. Until handloading becomes second nature to you.

Note: A turret press is essentially a single stage press with a moveable head which can mount several dies at the same time. What makes it like a single stage rather than a progressive is that you are still using only one die at a time, not three or four dies simultaneously at each stroke.

On the Turret vs Single stage the decision is simpler. You can do everything on a Turret EXACTLY the same way as you do on a single stage (just leave the turret stationary). That is, a Turret IS a single stage if you don't rotate the head.

Learning on a progressive can be done successfully, but it is easier to learn to walk in shoes than on roller skates.

Also, a good, strong, single stage press is in the stable of almost every reloader I know, no matter how many progressives they have. They always keep at least one.

Advice #4 Find a mentor.

There is no substitute for someone watching you load a few cartridges and critiquing your technigue BEFORE you develop bad habits or make a dangerous mistake. (A mistake that might not have consequences right away, but maybe only after you have escaped trouble a hundred times until one day you get bit, for instance having case lube on your fingers when you handle primers; 99 times, no problem because primers are coated with a sealant, but the hundredth primer may not be perfectly sealed and now winds up "dead")

I started loading with the guy who sold me my press watching over my shoulder as I loaded my first 6 rounds to make sure I did not blow myself up, load a powderless cartridge or set off a primer in the press. I could have learned more, faster with a longer mentoring period, but I learned a lot in those first 6 rounds, as he explained each step. I educated myself after that. But now, on the internet, I have learned a WHOLE LOT MORE. But in-person is still the best.

After you have been mentored, mentor someone else. Not necessarily in loading or the shooting sports, but in SOMETHING in which you are enthusiastic and qualified. Just give back to the community.

Advice #5 Design your loading space for safety, efficiency, cleanliness

When I started reloading, I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted the press on a 2" x 6" plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table My loading gear all fit in a footlocker and spread out on the coffeetable and the lid of the footlocker. Good leverage meant the table did not lift or rock. I still use the same plank, but now it is mounted in a Black & Decker folding workbench. A loading bench "bolted to the center of the earth" (as some describe their setups) would be more stable, but I do not feel deprived without it.

You will probably spill powder or drop a primer eventually, so consider what you have for a floor covering when you pick your reloading room/workspace. I would not try to vacuum up spilt gunpowder unless using a Rainbow vacuum which uses water as the filter medium. A dropcloth is practically infallible. Use cloth, not plastic. Less static, quieter and has less tendency to let dropped primers roll away.

Advice #6 Keep Current on loading technology

Always use a CURRENT loading manual. Powder chemistry has changed over the years. They make some powders differently than they used to and even some powder names may have changed. However, if you are using 10 year old powder, you may want to check a 10 year old manual for the recipe. Then double check with a modern manual and then triple check with the powder maker.

Read previous threads on reloading, here are a couple I read.
THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS
RugerForum.com • View topic - Interested in reloading
RugerForum.com • View forum - Factory Ammunition and Reloading
The second one is a thread started by a new recruit to reloading which the moderators thought highly enough of to make it "sticky" so it stays on the top of the list of threads.

Advice #7 You never regret buying the best (but once)

When you buy the very best, it hurts only once, in the wallet. When you buy too cheaply it hurts every time you use the gear. The trick is to buy good enough (on the scale between high quality and low price) to keep you happy without overpaying. "The delicious flavor of low price fades fast. The wretched aftertaste of poor quality lingers long.

Advice #8 Tungsten Carbide dies (or Titanium Nitride)

T-C dies instead of regular tool steel (which require lubrication for sizing your brass) for your straight-walled cartridge cases. T-C dies do not require lubrication, which will save you time. Carbide expander button for your bottlenecked cases. Keeps lube out of the inside of the cases.

Advice #9 Safety Always Safety All Ways.

Wear eye protection, especially when seating primers. Gloves are good, too, especially if using the Lee "Hammer" Tools. Children (unless they are good helpers, not just playing around) are at risk and are a risk. Pets, too unless they have been vetted (no, not that kind of vetting). Any distractions that might induce you to forget charging a case (no charge or a double charge, equally disturbing). Imagine everything that CAN go wrong. Then imagine everything that you CAN'T imagine. I could go on, but it's your eyes, your fingers, your house, your children (present of future - lead is a hazard, too. Wash after loading and don't eat at your bench). Enough said?

Advice #10 Verify for yourself everything you learn. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers). This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained reloaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly. I heard about a powder manufacturer's web site that dropped a decimal point once. It was fixed REAL FAST, but mistakes happen. I work in accounting and frequently hit "7" instead of "4" because the are next to each other on the keypad.

Good luck.

Lost Sheep
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Lost sheep, thank you for taking the time to put out your 10 advices. I really got a lot out of it. Im definitely going to slow down my steps in attempting to get the loading process started. I have a friend who is experienced at loading. I will try to get him over when I'm readyfor my first run. More research is also at hand.
 

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I'm and old ..........guy. I hardly ever load more than 200 a sitting. I enjoy it as much as shooting. I love the simplicity of my single stage RCBS press. After thousands and thousands of rounds I still always have the reloading manual next to me.
Some rules I have is I never use someones recipe off the the internet. One typo and you just blew you gun up or worse. There is so much reliable info from the reloading books to the powder companies, don't use someones expeirment.
Keep it fun and don't make it work. It's great therapy in my book.
I clean my rounds in Simple Green and dish washing liquid solution, dry them then inspect 'em. You can find your defective cases and your dies don't get muck on 'em.there are a lot of ways to clean them.
In short enjoy and have a blast.
Lost Sheeps post was awesome, you can take it to the bank...........or range.
 

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I've got some cases that've been reloaded 20 times.
So, yes you can reload brass cases.

What would stop me?
I usually lose cases before that happens,
But cracks will eventually develop.
Those are scrap.
Dings & dents in the neck are bad too.

And eventually they develop loose primer pockets.
 

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Larry the Conservative
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Just a couple additional notes on that super post by Lost Sheep (it's all solid stuff!)

1. Keep a separate reloading notebook that lists a diary of what you loaded when and how it preformed at the range. I keep a small notepad with me at the range and even sketch out target hit patterns, powder, bullet data, and chrono data.

As you try different powders, you will find some you like in certain combinations - there will also be some you won't like. Its nice to not count on your memory. Some powders are very dirty, some are very fast burning, some are s-l-o-w. :)

2. As time goes on and you get lots of rounds of experience, mentor someone else. Lots of folks either are afraid they'll blow themselves up or don't understand how much better the ammo you make yourself is. Go out and tell them.
 

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A lot of excellent advice here, you can be sure of that. One thing I learned that will help make your pistol brass last longer (if this was mentioned already I apologize) Is to only flare just enough to get your bullet started, over flaring will wear it out quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Holy smokes ! What a helpful thread. I hope others starting out get to read it .I think Lost sheeps posts should be sticky. Thank you all.
 

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Ironhat
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Advice #4 will save you time, money, heartache and possibly some fingers and an eye. There's nothing like experience.
 

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I don't like loading 9mm. The case is tapered and I find that it takes more effort than loading any of the other calibers I load for.



Really ?? I know the case is tapered , but takes more effort?
I have loaded thousands of 9MM don't think it's takes more effort then the 40cal or 45acp just the bullets are smaller for the 9mm.
Just asking ...
 
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