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Discussion Starter #1
With the exception of a half dozen reload cartridges given me by a coworker, the only rounds that I've shot in my P345 have been the Blazer Brass .45 Auto 230 gr. FMJ. My gun really likes these rounds and cranks through them smoothly and efficiently. I can see that I'm not going to be able to continue shooting at the volume that I've been doing for the past few weeks. The "little woman" is getting a tad skittish at what I've been spending, and thus I can readily see myself doing some handloading in the near future.

I've visited the http://www.leeprecision.com/ site, and have watched several of the videos on the mechanics of reloading. (Some fascinating stuff, by the way!) If I do take the leap into rolling my own, I suspect that it will be with the Lee Turret Press. So, here's a question about that process -- is some brass better, (and conversely, some inferior) for such purposes? [?]

I've begun to pick up and save the brass that I shoot, to have some on hand, if needed. Is the brass from these Blazer Brass rounds the "quality" stuff that I should be saving? If so, should I reasonably expect that it could be used to be reloaded several times before chunking it? Thanks for any help you might care to offer a rank beginner. [8D]

Amistad
'guns rock!'
 

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Do you buy yours at WallyWorld for under $10? I'd guess the brass is fine...just don't try reloading steel or aluminum cases...I'd get a Rock Chucker again, if I reloaded...had one in the 70s, and loved the simplicity...good for 100 rds in about 2 hrs for me...I took my time and enjoyed it...I'd reload brass till it got a split..10+ times...you'll have a lot of fun...
 

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My .45 Brass lasts a long time. It is low pressure and the straight case is not worked that much in resizing to cause problems. I have the crimping die and crimp mine and it still lasts good. I clean and use all cases that I find that are brass. I have found that the Federal primers work better for me in the different cases than the other primers. They are softer and easier to put into some of the cases. I have the Lee Turret Press and love it.
 

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I have not reloaded cci 45 "brass" blazer before but it should be good brass. I've picked up a lot of different brass and reloaded it before
and have used win, rem, pmc, fiochi,federal.....all good for reloading.

In 38spl, its hard to wear out the brass it seems as there is a lot of bang for your buck there.
If you are going to take the leap, i might suggest looking here:

http://www.lockstock.com/default.asp
they have the anniversy kit with turret press, scale, powder disc,etc,etc,on right now for $89.00 plus shipping. I've ordered from these folks before and they are good.

Other choices are available such as
www.midwayusa.com
http://www.natchezss.com/
 

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i have reloaded the 9mm blazer brass with no problems, most brass is good but avoid a-merc if you stumble across any.

a turrent is a good way to start imo, you can run it like a single stage and later like a progressive to a point when you know more about reloading.
 

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I've loaded some Blazer Brass in .45 auto and it works fine. I haven't loaded them enough times to comment on its longevity, but I'm guessing it will be fine. Pick up whatever you can except for aluminum and steel of course. Just be sure to inspect it before you load it. Mixed brands of brass are OK for range loads. If you're after dead nuts accuracy, sort your cases by brand.
 

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If you want the Lee Classic Turret Press Kit look at Kempf Gun Shop. They offer an upgrade to the Lee Pro Powder Measure (a MUST BUY item), the Lee Safety scale and other extras (like six free plastic cartridge boxes) and they are a small family-owned business instead of a big-box store. Kempf's really appreciate your purchase!

http://www.kempfgunshop.com/products/newitems/90064.html

Kempf Gun Shop
7625 West US 20
Johnson Rd. & US 20
Michigan City, IN 46360
Phone: (219) 872-7957
Fax: (219) 874-3301
[email protected]

Blazer Brass is more than satisfactory for reloading .45 ACP. Their cases accept primers with ease, and the case web is not lacking in strength. With normal flaring you should be able to reload it many times over.
 

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+1000 on Kempf Gun Shop. Got my turret kit there. Unlike Cabelas you get a set of dies instead of cheap lee scale. Great customer service. Emailed Sue Kempf a few questions and she replied quickly and honestly. Qucik shipping - just Top Notch Business!:D

I agree with nitesite - definately upgrade to the Pro Autodisk, it's a bargain at $9.95. I also upgraded to the lever prime system. Also if you will be loading several calibers, get extra 4 hole turrets that way you can just leave the dies in and switch out the turret for a quick caliber change.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
quote:Originally posted by sheepdog

Do you buy yours at WallyWorld for under $10?
Sure do! And will likely continue doing so until I make the leap over into rolling my own. There's no place cheaper that I've found...

Amistad
'loving that range time!'
 

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Amistad, brass longivety is dependent on several things. How high the pressure is in the reload,the type of brass,(I've found nickle brass to be more brittle than all brass case.Federal is normaly very tough brass. I think two of the things that determine longivety is how much the case is flared to seat the bullet & how heavy the crimp. That said I like a heavy roll crimp on my cases. If you flare the case more than is needed to start the bullet without shaving the bullet brass life will suffer some. It means the case is worked more in the crimp area where cracks normaly ocour (sp)? If you will set your flairing die to only flare the case enough to start the bullet without shaving it it will go a long ways to getting you more use out of your brass. Hope this helps some. Frank
 

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the blazer bras is just regular cci brand brass same as all thier rounds , ive loaded a bunch of it an still buy it on sale
 

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Brass usually fails due to work hardening. To soften brass take a pie pan and fill it with about 3/4" of water. Put in your cases in the pan with the mouth up and heat with a propane torch until the mouth is dark red. Tip the brass over while it is hot to quench. Annealing brass (copper) is the opposite of steel.

I usually do this on my bottle neck rifle brass to extend it's life.

Do not soften the base of any brass as it helps contain the pressure of the burning powder.
 

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wow 15 thats a new one for me , never heard that before? ive loaded some 45 brass so many times , the headstamp wears off hahaha then i get one more practice round out of it before its left on the range
 

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quote:Originally posted by shaner

wow 15 thats a new one for me , never heard that before? ive loaded some 45 brass so many times , the headstamp wears off hahaha then i get one more practice round out of it before its left on the range
Straight cases usually are not a problem. It is the higher pressure bottle neck cases that work hardens after 10 to 20 rounds. I also do it when I am reforming to a different caliber. Had a lot of 30-06 brass so I annealed and formed some to 22/250. Worked great. Had to neck turn the brass and reduce the load a little. Sure got a lot of funny looks when I showed a 22/250 at the range with a 30-06 headstamp.
 
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