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The quality of the Ruger GP100 Match Champion

11K views 41 replies 19 participants last post by  Tommyhof 
#1 · (Edited)
Is aparentely on the same level as Taurus. At least mine was. At $750 bucks (new) one would kinda expect a little better craftsmanship to be put into the gun then just the regular GP100. I am not sure if my gun was a Monday or Friday gun considering the box didn't come with the little yellow envelope stating the final inspection date also containing the fired factory casings.

Some of the "problems" I noticed much later on when completely breaking the gun down, I did not notice at the store. When I picked up the gun from the store as a transfer I was looking at more of the function of the gun.

*Does the cylinder rotate okay?
*Is there any binding?
*Is the barrel canted?

Etc.

One of the issues I noticed at the store was the 11 degree crown. Near the rifling was like a deep tooling mark. I had the gunsmith look at it before I accepted the transfer. He stated that it was fine and it was nothing to be concerned about considering the rifling wasn't chipped or cracked.




After polishing the crown. You can see the marks but they are not as bad. This is after pic after working on it.

Then there was the biggest eye sore of it all. The crane to frame fit.



There is a big wide open gap. The crane was somewhat okay. It was the metal underneath barrel that was unevenly cut. In front of the crane there was some metal that needed to be cut back.



This is a pic of everything being cut back or sanded down.



Finished result.

The hammer was also unevenly cut near the back. The right side had more metal.





After shot, after working on the hammer. Both sides are more rounded.

The hammer is the last thing I am working on. For some reason it is rubbing up against the left side of the frame near the firing pin.



I know the Match Champion has hammer shims, but apparently they were not the right size or Ruger just threw some in there just to say,

"yeah, it has hammer shims. Derp :B"

I even put a .0011 hammer shim on the left side only. Nothing on the right side and hammer still rubs in that area. It's not the look I am worried about. It's the hammer slowing down and causing light strikes with a lighter spring in the gun. 10 lb spring.

Now at this point, if you read all this, you may be saying to yourself, "why didn't you send it back to Ruger".

Well several reasons actually. I thought if they couldn't get it right before it left the factory then how much better could they make it if I sent it back? I figured, if you want it done right do it yourself. I also have seen posts from people on here from Ruger saying with things I showed from above, "well the gun still functions, so what". I feel like Ruger guns at this point are like some of those 1970's muscle cars that people buy to restore. The seller wants a premium for the car even though it has a lot of problems.

What do I need to do to fix the hammer from rubbing into the frame? I also have yet to shoot the gun. So I dunno if that one area on the crown is going to affect accuracy. If it does cause issues then I guess I have no choice but to send the gun back.

I have put in somewhere along the line of 19 to 22 hrs fixing the issues I mentioned. At $750 I am really disappointed in the quality Ruger. I am curious to see what a $1100 gun looks like from Ruger.
 
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#2 ·
Looks like ruger got the apprentice on that one!!
 
#4 ·
The only complaint I have about my new gp100 i purchased yesterday was the sharp edges on the trigger guard. I quick hit with my buffing wheel took care of that issue.
 
#6 ·
First off I have had both Taurus & Rugers I like both but have never had any issues with any Taurus Revolver or Semi-Auto. Now my two latest Ruger SP101's rough edges on the hammer Spurs the triggers & trigger guards. A quick polish with the dremel took care of these problems. I got these guns via trade. Your description of your Ruger Match Champion if you bought it new you shouldn't have accepted it with the issues you brought up. Demand a different gun at the LGS. But now that you decided to invest your time into this gun, Well you really haven't given Ruger CS a chance to make your gun right. I never had a S&W come to me with rough edges or heavy trigger pulls and actions. You paid good money on your MC let Ruger correct the issues. I have seen both negative & positive reports here on Ruger GP100 MC. There should be better QC on Rugers part so these problem guns get fixed before they are shipped out in the first place. I like both Ruger & S&W I have both currently but more Rugers. Send your GP100 MC back good luck to you.
 
#7 · (Edited)
If the mark on the crown is okay after a range session I may send it back for the hammer issue.
Everything else I fixed. The crane to frame fit. The excess metal on the back of the hammer.

I also noticed the guns trigger is not as nice as my regular 6" gp100. In fact my regular gp100 is all stock and has a smoother and cleaner break then the Match Champion. That's even after doing a trigger job to it.
 
#8 ·
I bought into all the hype too and bought one a few months back! The crane to frame fit was terrible and the trigger pull was horrendous! I have since unloaded it in a trade for more cash than I had in it.
 
#9 · (Edited)
I held off for the longest time because of the posts I saw on here, but I decided to take a chance. I guess I didn't luck out. There is one thing that is good about the quality of Ruger firearms you can at least have more of reason to drop the price down when buying from a FFL if you can point out issues to them.

I will try it next time if I choose to buy another Ruger firearm. This is my 3rd Ruger. My 2nd one, an SR40 I sold due to barrel penning issues. I feel like buying a new Ruger for me is like buying a used car. "It's going to need some work".
 
#14 · (Edited)
I dunno as of yet. I am hoping it's a tack driver. I will report back. I am going to the range today. Currently in the process of polishing the frame and widening the frame on the left where the hammer comes in contact with the frame. I can see on the right side of the frame that area is "flared" out.

 
#12 ·
Morning MadNick;

It is unfortunate that a gun is built with those defects. That seems to be the nature of the gun industry anymore. All the gun companies are selling their poor quality guns as fast as they can build them so there is really no incentive for them to improve the quality.

Last 2 Smiths I have bought were pretty bad in the fit & function department & my last couple of Rugers were no better.

Good luck on your hammer issue-- my last (about 1 year ago) Ruger GP100 had such a bad hammer fit & drag that I actually sent it back to Ruger. It came back with the same hammer drag & off center hammer. So I sent it back again & still no joy on Ruger repairing it (they said it shot OK)--

I ended up shimming the hammer to the right with a .004" R/H shim & two .009" L/H shims THEN using a file & wet/dry paper to open up the L/H side of the hammer slot in the frame. I also had to sand the trigger guard due to a knife like edge, dehorn the trigger itself due to very sharp corners at the top, shim the trigger as it dragged badly on the trigger housing, then shim the rear sight as it moved laterally in it's rough machined oversized slot.

The real bad part is: I looked at 4 GP 100's & bought the best one of the 4 .

The gun NOW shoots excellent & has a decent trigger pull but the finish is still poor as there are machining marks on the frame & barrel & very rough machine marks under the crane. (one of these days I need to take about 10 hours & sand those out but they just look bad & don't effect the shootability)
 
#13 ·
I am not sure if my gun was a Monday or Friday gun considering the box didn't come with the little yellow envelope stating the final inspection date also containing the fired factory casings.
I don't have much to add except to say that the fired casing envelope is no longer included with new guns. The last state requiring it drop the requirement so they just don't do it anymore. I kinda miss it.:(
 
#17 · (Edited)
I just never will understand someone buying a new firearm...taking it home and finding obvious manufacturing flaws and getting out the tools to fix the shoddy work that went into the gun at the factory...it's sort of like buying a new car and rebuilding the suspension to correct flaws from the factory, before taking it for a first drive...

If I buy new (which is very seldom any more) it's got to be right or back it goes...and again and again if they can't get it right...The "Chinese way" of quality control (send it out untested...if it fails replace it but don't do any Q/C in the initial phases) has become a way of life with many companies.

I'm urged to "buy American"...in some cases my answer to that is only if there is a reason for the premium price..

Ruger was sort of just coming into the picture back when I was working in a gun store in Northern Colorado in the 50's...they were the hot stuff and were the hot stuff for many years...I've seen several "new" GP100's and one of the 1911's that had serious and obvious defects that somehow "slipped past"...looks a bit like the Chinese Q/C at work and should not be that way.

I have a safe full of Rugers but no new ones..all used and proven..And aside from some tight throats on a 45Colt Vaquero I've had to do no work (and that was for my convenience).
 
#18 · (Edited)
I just never will understand someone buying a new firearm...taking it home and finding obvious manufacturing flaws and getting out the tools to fix the shoddy work that went into the gun at the factory...it's sort of like buying a new car and rebuilding the suspension to correct flaws from the factory, before taking it for a first drive..
Some of the flaws i did not notice at the store. Had I noticed the crane to frame fit at the store, I would have said no to the transfer. To be honest, I wasn't even looking for that at the store. This is my 2nd revolver in general. A lot of people on here don't see some cosmetic flaws that someone else sees first. It isn't until someone mentions it, then everyone else decides to check there very own gun and sure enough they have the same cosmetic flaws too. But I do get where your coming from.
 
#19 ·

38 special 7 yds



357. 7 yds. The recoil did take some time getting use to from a 4". I am use to the 6" weight from my regular gp100.


357 10 yds
My gun doesn't seem to have any issues with the crown from what I can see. The accuracy seems good enough and the gun is capable of shooting a ragged hole depending on the shooter. I am more use to the semi autos.
 
#20 · (Edited)
The workmanship out of Ruger is often just "shoddy" and there is no reason for it other than they can get away with it. My GP-100 has been great, very accurate but did require the cylinders to be reamed out to .358 - none were close. I installed shims due to rubbing on the right side of the hammer, Shims helped. I expired leading in the first 8th inch of rifling due to barrel constriction. Still get some but now using powder coated bullets which seems to have eliminated the issue.

Returning the gun to Ruger is not an option up here. I would like a Match Champion but not at $1.1KCdn the dealers up here think the gun is worth. I'll have to wait for one to come up used or until our dollar strengthens.

I have two Ruger handguns, both of which needed finishing. If there is nothing comparable to Ruger for what I want and the Ruger fits my needs I will buy Ruger but only if there is no alternative product. It seems buying anything made in North America these days is a crap shoot and Ruger is no exception. Fortunately guns don't often wear out and there is a lot of quality product in the market made at a time when there were folks still working that took pride in their work or at least new what the hell they were doing.

Take Care

Bob
 
#21 ·
I don't know if Ruger is just trying to push more guns out the door or what is happening. I ordered a Redhawk in 44 mag from a local dealer took about a week to get, picked up one evening looked it over and took it home. Next day after work went to clean and lube. Barrel looks to be 1/64" to the left, looked down the barrel and could see the cylinder and barrel are not aligned, using a jag thru the barrel then cylinder I could feel as it would go into cylinder it would bump into the cylinder, that this was NO GOOD. took back to dealer who after a week I hope has sent gun back to Ruger, Never even got to put a cartridge in the cylinder. This was to be my 5th Ruger Firearm. not happy with dealer (I have purchased 4 firearms from) or Ruger.
 
#23 ·
Nick it looks like to me that you now have a very nice Ruger MC sorry you had to go thru all the nonsense to get it running right!! Ruger I hope you are reading this your QC needs to improve alot!!! Pricing these revolvers the way that Ruger does should demand better quality. If I bought one and had these problems back to Ruger it would go. I think that Nick has done a nice job on this revolver it shows in the accuracy but not without some investment in time and trouble! I really like the GP100 line I want to eventually get one someday but it will be used and well inspected before I will buy one. Nick what kind of grips did you install on your GP100 MC? They certainly look really nice and a effective design. I would like to have something like this on my Ruger SP101 instead of the finger groove Hogues! Glad to see your MC is performing as it should!!!
 
#24 ·
Well, for 750 dollars, I would expect more at that price range. Obviously, any production shop can make mistakes...we are all human, but final inspection should have caught those things.
 
#27 ·
I work too hard for my money to spend $750 on a gun and then have to tinker with it.........no way. Sure, if I spent $200 on a project gun, no problem, but we're talking close to a grand worth of gun here, that's more than a paycheck to some people.........no way am I "finishing" a brand new gun.

I paid close to $1,000 for my .45 Redhawk, I could have had the S&W .45 ACP revolver, but I chose the Ruger........it performs as it should, I would not accept a gun at that price that looked like it was finished in a high school metal shop.

That said I have my first Charter Arms revolver at Charter right now, the cylinder wasn't fitted right, so I sent it back. $450 + for a brand new gun that bound up after 20 rounds, a .40 Pit Bull. I'm giving Charter a chance to make it right, so far they've had the gun for 2 weeks with 0 communication.
 
#29 ·
I really hate reading posts like this. I am so OC about anything new.

7 days ago I picked up my GP100 MC and went over it and over it. It looked nice. Took it apart and cleaned it up real nice and put it away since I have not had the chance to go the range yet.....

...then I read this post. YES, I took it out again (just before posting this) and looked closely, real close....maybe too close! ;-) So close I think I began imagining imperfections.

I took it apart again and yes, maybe there are a few cosmetic imperfections, but unless I take it apart and look real close; I won't see them....not sure if they are actually there or in my head.

I like mine and it looks good. I have yet to see any "perfect" product - only in my head. Granted, yours may have a few, as does mine, but from what I have read...99% have said they are a workhorse that will last a very long time. All I know is this, it looks great, feels great and once I fire that first shot, it will never be as it is now.

BTW, GREAT shooting - I hope mine will be close.
 
#30 ·
Agreed with what's been said but given the fact a $750.00-$800.00 gun a person shouldn't have to tear a gun apart to clean it up total Bull$hit!! Too much of a price now are Rugers a take apart fix it up gun to get these guns working right??? If this is the fact then Rugers QC sucks!! Plus I have read multiple returns to get things right. Don't totally agree or disagree with what the OP has done but hey if he is happy then that's what matters!! Ruger is the one that needs to be beaten up for sending out defects and flaws in the first place!!!
 
#33 ·
I'm still confused. Pay for gun. Pick up gun. See what you perceive to be flaws. Work to correct perceived flaws. Rant about quality on internet.

Did I miss the return to the manufacturer when the flaws were observed? And did I miss the gun ever being shot?

It really looks like a convoluted process or a made up story to me. The simple, real world tests and solutions seem to have been bypassed. Is this what everyone other than me does with their time?

Jeff
 
#34 ·
Function or Form?

A Ruger is a tool first and a piece of art last. If the OP had shot the MC and found it to be lacking in either accuracy or function then either sending it back or fixing it themselves would be valid options. The fact that the complaints were cosmetic and we don't know if addressing them helped accuracy underscores the point. If you have to make it "pretty" before you shoot it, then maybe you should shop elsewhere. We buy Rugers to be tools, not show pieces. There are many places you can pay for "form before function," but from my experience Ruger is not that place.
 
#35 ·
A Ruger is a tool first and a piece of art last. If the OP had shot the MC and found it to be lacking in either accuracy or function then either sending it back or fixing it themselves would be valid options. The fact that the complaints were cosmetic and we don't know if addressing them helped accuracy underscores the point. If you have to make it "pretty" before you shoot it, then maybe you should shop elsewhere. We buy Rugers to be tools, not show pieces. There are many places you can pay for "form before function," but from my experience Ruger is not that place.
You may buy guns for what ever reason you want to but some of us expect some semblance of QC to be in evidence. When hammers are rubbing against the frame then it just isn't acceptable. If you pay $700 - $800 for a gun is should have some semblance that is was put together decently. As it is most Ruger handguns are kit guns and sold as finished products. I love my Rugers but to imply buying a Ruger is like buying a new rusty shovel/hammer you are just plain wrong. Sorry. Three of my cylinders on my GP-100 were less than .356 in diameter. Like for a gun that is supposed to shoot 38spl./357mag with some degree of accuracy. $25 to my 'smith and all the cylinders were reamed out to .358. I have come to expect buying a Ruger is a crap shoot and why my next revolver will be a used S&W in 45Colt or 44Mag and not the Redhawk.

Take Care

Bob
 
#37 ·
It's been while since there was activity in this thread, but I wanted to let everyone know about the status of the MC I purchased.

Since then, I still haven't been able to fix the hammer rubbing issue. I have also noticed a few more machining flaws on the gun. Area's that have more metal then others.

I decided ultimately to contact Ruger and send the gun back primarily to get the hammer rubbing issue fixed along with the uneven machining, if they would. That was a week ago. As of today, Ruger shot me a email stating their "technician" concluded that the gun was "beyond repair" and the quality of the firearm did not reflect the value of this firearm was marketed at. Ruger offered to send me a brand new gun as a, "humble gesture" of their customer service.

I accepted their offer after everything I went through with that particular MC. I just hope this new gun has a better fit and finish along with the trigger. If not, then I will just keep rejecting the transfer till I either a) get a better gun or b) just get a refund. I would hope the Ruger tech's look over the replacement guns a little bit better then some of their guns that are "rushed" out of the factory.
 
#38 · (Edited)
Mother Ruger took care of me!

I ordered a Wiley Clapp GP 100, and when it arrived, there were some problems, mainly, the hammer pivot pin would work itself out, forcing the grip away from the frame. Disappointed! When returned, I quickly got a phone call, saying the technician recommended "replace the gun". O.K., so I requested a Match Champion as replacement. I must have won the lottery, because .357 range rods fit the cylinder throats a tad loose, but the .358 rod went through with just a bit of oil and some gentle persuasion, with about the same resistance...not gnat's fanny exact, but good enough! I figure .358 lead bullets will do just fine.

I fired the new gun about 150 rounds, and everything seemed tickety boo.
But...In the True Spirit of Never Leaving Well-Enough Alone, (and don't we ALL have some of that?:D) I disassembled it, replaced the return spring with a 10 pound unit, and the hammer spring with a 12 pounder. Satisfaction!:) Whilst I was at it, I polished the recommended surfaces with a stone and 1000 grit wet or dry, including the edges of the frame where the hammer fits. They don't cut anymore, with just a slight "break" of the sharp edges.

After cleaning it out with Gun Scrubber, I anointed the internal workings with Remington Dri-Lube. I don't know how good it is, but I figured if it is dry, it won't attract grit and dust, and it works good in my 10-22, so why not!

After it all, I have decided that life is too short, and I am not really into Gunsmith (?) Proctology, so, If it looks good, works as it ought, and the bullets don't fly back and shoot my hat off, :eek: I'll call it good, and enjoy! It breaks, I'll send it back for correction! :) Buuuut....maybe a spring replacement here and there wouldn't hurt... :D
 
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