Is aparentely on the same level as Taurus. At least mine was. At $750 bucks (new) one would kinda expect a little better craftsmanship to be put into the gun then just the regular GP100. I am not sure if my gun was a Monday or Friday gun considering the box didn't come with the little yellow envelope stating the final inspection date also containing the fired factory casings.
Some of the "problems" I noticed much later on when completely breaking the gun down, I did not notice at the store. When I picked up the gun from the store as a transfer I was looking at more of the function of the gun.
*Does the cylinder rotate okay?
*Is there any binding?
*Is the barrel canted?
Etc.
One of the issues I noticed at the store was the 11 degree crown. Near the rifling was like a deep tooling mark. I had the gunsmith look at it before I accepted the transfer. He stated that it was fine and it was nothing to be concerned about considering the rifling wasn't chipped or cracked.
After polishing the crown. You can see the marks but they are not as bad. This is after pic after working on it.
Then there was the biggest eye sore of it all. The crane to frame fit.
There is a big wide open gap. The crane was somewhat okay. It was the metal underneath barrel that was unevenly cut. In front of the crane there was some metal that needed to be cut back.
This is a pic of everything being cut back or sanded down.
Finished result.
The hammer was also unevenly cut near the back. The right side had more metal.
After shot, after working on the hammer. Both sides are more rounded.
The hammer is the last thing I am working on. For some reason it is rubbing up against the left side of the frame near the firing pin.
I know the Match Champion has hammer shims, but apparently they were not the right size or Ruger just threw some in there just to say,
"yeah, it has hammer shims. Derp :B"
I even put a .0011 hammer shim on the left side only. Nothing on the right side and hammer still rubs in that area. It's not the look I am worried about. It's the hammer slowing down and causing light strikes with a lighter spring in the gun. 10 lb spring.
Now at this point, if you read all this, you may be saying to yourself, "why didn't you send it back to Ruger".
Well several reasons actually. I thought if they couldn't get it right before it left the factory then how much better could they make it if I sent it back? I figured, if you want it done right do it yourself. I also have seen posts from people on here from Ruger saying with things I showed from above, "well the gun still functions, so what". I feel like Ruger guns at this point are like some of those 1970's muscle cars that people buy to restore. The seller wants a premium for the car even though it has a lot of problems.
What do I need to do to fix the hammer from rubbing into the frame? I also have yet to shoot the gun. So I dunno if that one area on the crown is going to affect accuracy. If it does cause issues then I guess I have no choice but to send the gun back.
I have put in somewhere along the line of 19 to 22 hrs fixing the issues I mentioned. At $750 I am really disappointed in the quality Ruger. I am curious to see what a $1100 gun looks like from Ruger.
Some of the "problems" I noticed much later on when completely breaking the gun down, I did not notice at the store. When I picked up the gun from the store as a transfer I was looking at more of the function of the gun.
*Does the cylinder rotate okay?
*Is there any binding?
*Is the barrel canted?
Etc.
One of the issues I noticed at the store was the 11 degree crown. Near the rifling was like a deep tooling mark. I had the gunsmith look at it before I accepted the transfer. He stated that it was fine and it was nothing to be concerned about considering the rifling wasn't chipped or cracked.
After polishing the crown. You can see the marks but they are not as bad. This is after pic after working on it.
Then there was the biggest eye sore of it all. The crane to frame fit.
There is a big wide open gap. The crane was somewhat okay. It was the metal underneath barrel that was unevenly cut. In front of the crane there was some metal that needed to be cut back.
This is a pic of everything being cut back or sanded down.
Finished result.
The hammer was also unevenly cut near the back. The right side had more metal.
After shot, after working on the hammer. Both sides are more rounded.
The hammer is the last thing I am working on. For some reason it is rubbing up against the left side of the frame near the firing pin.
I know the Match Champion has hammer shims, but apparently they were not the right size or Ruger just threw some in there just to say,
"yeah, it has hammer shims. Derp :B"
I even put a .0011 hammer shim on the left side only. Nothing on the right side and hammer still rubs in that area. It's not the look I am worried about. It's the hammer slowing down and causing light strikes with a lighter spring in the gun. 10 lb spring.
Now at this point, if you read all this, you may be saying to yourself, "why didn't you send it back to Ruger".
Well several reasons actually. I thought if they couldn't get it right before it left the factory then how much better could they make it if I sent it back? I figured, if you want it done right do it yourself. I also have seen posts from people on here from Ruger saying with things I showed from above, "well the gun still functions, so what". I feel like Ruger guns at this point are like some of those 1970's muscle cars that people buy to restore. The seller wants a premium for the car even though it has a lot of problems.
What do I need to do to fix the hammer from rubbing into the frame? I also have yet to shoot the gun. So I dunno if that one area on the crown is going to affect accuracy. If it does cause issues then I guess I have no choice but to send the gun back.
I have put in somewhere along the line of 19 to 22 hrs fixing the issues I mentioned. At $750 I am really disappointed in the quality Ruger. I am curious to see what a $1100 gun looks like from Ruger.