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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a new sp101 that doesn't much care for 357's, the empties won't eject. I have tried a cylinder hone but still 357 empties still stick. I compared a 357 Blackhawk I use for CAS and the empties just slide in and out, any suggestions. Thanks
 

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Obvious first questions:

1) What's the ammo?
2) Define 'stick'.
3) How are you cleaning the cylinder after shooting.
 

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I would first try a different ammo before assuming something is wrong with the gun. Do 38 sp. also get stuck?
 

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I have a new sp101 that doesn't much care for 357's, the empties won't eject. I have tried a cylinder hone but still 357 empties still stick. I compared a 357 Blackhawk I use for CAS and the empties just slide in and out, any suggestions. Thanks
My SP101 is only about a year old and it's throats are a bit "snug". The throats measure .357 and the cylinder was a bit grippy but only with some handloads- Full power factory .357 ammo didn't stick.

If by "sticking", however, you mean the cases won't fully eject with the ejector rod? ...that's normal. The ejector rod doesn't have enough stroke, even with my 3-1/16" barreled SP, for longer.357 brass to completely clear the chamber- .38 brass will.

The proper way to eject empties with a revolver (any revolver) in a defensive role is to tip the revolver muzzle up and smack the ejector rod smartly twice with the palm/heel of your hand then tip the revolver muzzle down to reload. At least this was the way I was taught when I went through LEO academy. This procedure clears the empties just fine on my SP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies. By sticking I mean stuck, won't budge, I have to use a knife edge to get them started moving out. I have a Rossi, snub nose 38 and the cases just fall right out. I have 4 357 Blackhawks and again the cases just fall right out or need very little push to get them started. With the sp101 it doesn't seem to matter much, heavy load or lighter loads. With my Blackhawks I can put an empty case into all the chambers of the cylinder with no resistance, with the sp101 there is resistance 1/4 inch in and then you have to really push to full seat the empty case, a loaded round will drop right in. This started with the very first loads I tried, 38's are a little better, but this is a 357 and that's what I bought it for. Weather has been bad here will try to shoot it again this week end with different loads. Thanks Cowboy Owen
 

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I think you should call Ruger.

I'm curious though... When you insert an empty, that's been fired from your SP, does the empty slide in smoothly but tightly once the resistance is felt? or does it feel a little rough as your inserting past the point where resistance is felt?

If it's just rough feeling then a little polishing compound such as Remington 40X bore cleaner (more of a liquid) or J-B bore paste on a patch which is wrapped around a nylon bore brush and worked back and forth can smooth up a rough cylinder.

It it's smooth but still too tight then I don't think any more "polishing" or "honing" would help.

I would like to know what the cylinder throats of your SP measure? If I had an inside mic I could measure the cylinder/chamber I.D. of my SP and we could compare notes but with calipers all I can do is measure the throats.
 

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I kind of take it for granted now that, if I buy a Ruger, the cylinder will get replaced. Batting almost a thousand now with single and double action. Give them a call.
 

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I kind of take it for granted now that, if I buy a Ruger, the cylinder will get replaced. Batting almost a thousand now with single and double action. Give them a call.
If that's true, then I'd expect you'd have either gave up on Ruger, or would have figured out you should take a gauge and a range rod to the shop with you to confirm fit before putting money on the barrel head.
 

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I've had some dirty ammo that made my new sp101 do the same about but was not nearly as hard to eject as you describe using a knife. when I first got it. And was a bit tough ejecting first time to range. At first I thought it was maybe old grease left from manufacturing since it was new and my first revolver. But then saw the rounds must have landed on my shop floor at some time. But looking back still think may have been a mix of both because cleaned it afterwards with hoppes bore cleaner in cyclinder and haven't had a issue since. About 300 rnds now. Good luck
 

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If that's true, then I'd expect you'd have either gave up on Ruger, or would have figured out you should take a gauge and a range rod to the shop with you to confirm fit before putting money on the barrel head.
Most guns were bought online. Silly me, expecting a gun to be right. It really was not a big deal, because it cost me nothing to cycle the gun back to Ruger, and they returned it quickly, working as it should. I have not lost my interest in Ruger, especially single action. As far as buying locally, I did actually look at a Super Blackhawk yesterday.

My 44 Special Flat Top was bought locally, and its need for a new cylinder was not apparent until fired, showing two cylinders firing off group, high and left. My gunsmith test fired it and got the same result. It is still a bit off, as Ruger's test target shows, but groups are tighter now, good enough for unrested shooting..
 
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