[Crestliner]

If you caught my earlier post, in the CCW section, you know that I love my new SP101. That being said, I do have one question. When you cock the hammer, the cylinder stop retracts, then the cylinder starts to rotate. Fine. But when is the cylinder lock suppose to come back up against the cylinder, prior to locking in the slot? Mine seems to come up a bit earlier than I'm use to. About 1/2 way between flutes, dragging the rest of the way into the slot on the smooth surface of the cylinder. (Sorry if my terminology is not correct.) My experience with S&W's is that this occurs as well, but only for about 1/4" prior to droping into the slot. Not sure if this is something I should be concerned about or not? If I'm not making myself clear enough, I'll send a picture. Thanks for you input folks.

 

[Iowegan]

Crestliner, Before the cylinder in any DA revolver can be released to rotate, the cylinder latch must be pulled down. This happens as the hammer is cocked in SA or the trigger is pulled in DA. Once the cylinder rotates a few degrees, the cylinder latch pops up again under spring tension and drags on the cylinder until it reaches a lock slot. The cylinder latch spring will then push the cylinder latch into a lock notch.

In any Ruger, S&W, or any other brand of DA revolver, the cylinder latch (S&W calls it a cylinder stop) will be released just a few degrees after the cylinder starts to rotate. Naturally, this is going to cause an unavoidable drag line on the cylinder.

Your Ruger is working properly if indeed the cylinder latch is pulled down before the cylinder begins to rotate and is released soon after ... just like any other brand.

 

[Crestliner]

Thanks Iowegen. That clears it up. Like I said, my S&W K-22 Combat Masterpiece only had about 1/4" drag on the cylinder; very obvious due to the bluing not being there! Thanks again.

 

[bowhunter]

Crestliner, Revolvers, even in the same make and model can "time-out" at different intervals depending on "slight" differences in parts dimensions and alignment as well as parts "wear". It's one of them "things" that are not of much concern as long as the revolver is working "right". Some folks get worked up over "looks" and others don't. Even though we have new model revolvers coming out from time to time, the manufacturers seem to want to stick to "old" standard revolver engineering! Cylinder "lines" can be reduced in some models to some degree but often times are not worth the time and money to the revolver owner..........................Dick

 

[alaskanbill]

Iowegan, What Part or parts of the fire control system control the length of the drag marks on the da revolvers. I have a friend that has three and all have different length marks on the cylinder. Thanks!!

 

[Iowegan]

alaskanbill, The cylinder latch itself and the trigger plunger control when the latch is released. Like tread on a tire, Ruger makes parts with enough tolerance where the gun works properly for many years, however; a good way to shorten the life of these parts is excessive dry firing.

 

[alaskanbill]

Thanks once again. Clear,precise, and to the point. Also for the SRH IBOK.