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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
:confused:i recieved 250 pieced of lead for free. they are SWC-HP. none were sized or lubed.

i went to the LGS and spoke to the local athority on loading. he mic'd several and they were all in the .358 to .359 range. he said that if i'm not trying to get tiny groups, and i'm just shooting they will be fine without sizing. no point in buying a sizer just for 250 rounds, unless i plan on begining to mold my own.which i am not. but he did suggest i lube them. so i bought a bottle of LEE LIQUID ALOX LUBE.

i followed the directions up to the point where it says "dribble some on". well here's where my dilema comes in. since "dribble" isnt exactly a scientific measurment, i sort of just poured on a little, and swirled around as directed. when they didnt seem to be getting coated as described, i repeated the dribble. at this point they were getting coated, and after drying over night i'm concerned. to the touch it feels a little thick, and i'm not full convinced of this stuff. i did read that the grooves will not be filled in and thats ok. but i'm worried about the face portion. do i need to clean these off and start over, or is it ok for them to be coated? should i load them, then wipe them off with nail polish remover, or breakclean?heres a pic. thanx :confused:
 

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Can't tell by the pic, but all you need is a thin coat. Too much and the alox won't dry completely and will smoke a lot when shot. Use just enough to give the bullet a light tan hint of color. I prefer to thin the alox with mineral spirits, about 25% or so and the alox will dry quicker and less tacky. Another way is to dip lube the bullets. Warm some alox (put the bottle in warm water), pour into a small container (sumpin' the size of a shot glass works), use tweezers or pliers, hold the bullet by the nose and dip the bullet down into the alox, up to the front/top driving band. Set upright on wax paper and allow to dry. Nose stays clean, and easier to clean up after loading...
 

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You are a lucky man. You got good advice from both a LGS and from the first poster on the internet. Buy a lottery ticket today (Grin)

alox is a great and easy lube to use. Trust me you don't want to try to lube with RCBS lube by hand without all the equipment, ask me how I know.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Can't tell by the pic, but all you need is a thin coat. Too much and the alox won't dry completely and will smoke a lot when shot. Use just enough to give the bullet a light tan hint of color. I prefer to thin the alox with mineral spirits, about 25% or so and the alox will dry quicker and less tacky. Another way is to dip lube the bullets. Warm some alox (put the bottle in warm water), pour into a small container (sumpin' the size of a shot glass works), use tweezers or pliers, hold the bullet by the nose and dip the bullet down into the alox, up to the front/top driving band. Set upright on wax paper and allow to dry. Nose stays clean, and easier to clean up after loading...
your a genius, where were you at 10:30 last night when i was doing this in my wifes baking tray?:D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
without gas checks i'm thinking i should load all of these in 38 spec shells so i dont end up with leading. i would prefer 357's, but i dont want to waist the 357 shells if i have to load at 38 spec specs/velocities to avoid blolw by and melting and leading.

any thoughts on this? i use bullseye for 38's, and win.296 for my 357 mags
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I found a bunch of 38 brass that i have already primed and sized. Looks like the decission was made for me, that was simple
 

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Discussion Starter #7
4.4 grns of bullseye tosses these 155grn swc-hps at 890+fps.

100 +P 38 specials complete.
 

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Cool! Let us know how they shoot!
 

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without gas checks i'm thinking i should load all of these in 38 spec shells so i dont end up with leading. i would prefer 357's, but i dont want to waist the 357 shells if i have to load at 38 spec specs/velocities to avoid blolw by and melting and leading.

any thoughts on this? i use bullseye for 38's, and win.296 for my 357 mags

For future reference.
You can always load ".38" loads in a .357 case and it avoids a lead ring in the .357 chamber that needs to be scrubbed out before a .357 length round can be chanbered. the load in the larger case may need .5 gn (depending on powder) more because of the volumes difference. I wouldn't worry about leading, with any decent alloyed mixture below about 1,200 fps as a general rule. In big bores the proper alloy mixture and powder can get some surprising velocities and accuracy without gas checks.
 

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A litle too much.

Try this: cut the ALOX 1 to 1 with mineral spirits.
Then use about the same amount LEE recommends.

You get far a more even coat and a lot less smoking.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yeah my fingers were definatly sticky by the time i was done. once finished i wiped down the exposed portion or the bullet. break clean a shop rag took it right off.

iwent looking into the reference that "countrygun" provided. absolutly right. seems that if i used 4.8 grns of bullseye itd be right in the same area. actually they claim 939fps. i have so many .38 special shells that i intend to load, but i dont realy shoot much of it. i'm mostly just stocking it for future use, or for trade. when i shoot, i shoot 357 full power, or at least factory loads. if i load 38's and dont have a full box, then they get shoot, but if i have a full box, they go straight to the ammo can.

i will definatly mix the alox with miniral spirits or thinnner. i may even clean the ones i have already lubed and start over. but this time i'm going to use "mikld's" idea of dipping them up to the groove using a small glass.
 

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To eliminate leading measure the cylinder throats of your gun. Shoot bullets the same size (.358" cylinder throats, shoot .358" bullets). If the bullets you have now mic out to the same as your throats or .001" larger, go ahead and shoot them at .357 starting loads, they might not lead...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Problem with that is I own a small stack of .357's. I load for all of them, not just one in particular. Whatever I load can and likly will be shot from all of them. So unless they are all identical, i'm not gonna get that fussy. I'm not shooting for 1 inch groups at 200 yards. I'm shooting to hit 5 inch steel targets, or center mass, at 100 yards, 75 yards, 65 yard, 50 yard, 25 yards, 10 yards, 5 yards, and 2 yards. Depending on which gun, and what senario. Mostly its just fun in the sun with my guns :)
 

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Problem with that is I own a small stack of .357's. I load for all of them, not just one in particular. Whatever I load can and likly will be shot from all of them. So unless they are all identical, i'm not gonna get that fussy. I'm not shooting for 1 inch groups at 200 yards. I'm shooting to hit 5 inch steel targets, or center mass, at 100 yards, 75 yards, 65 yard, 50 yard, 25 yards, 10 yards, 5 yards, and 2 yards. Depending on which gun, and what senario. Mostly its just fun in the sun with my guns :)
Simple, slug 'em all! Then you will know why the gun with the large cylinder throats lead it's bbl more than the other .357s, and clean up will be a whole lot easier. Leading isn't just bad for accuracy...
 

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If your hands are sticky, imagine what your seating stem looks like. If you're going to stay under 1,000fps, use Johnson's Paste Wax. It hardens and isn't tacky at all. Warm your clean bullets in the oven to about 150 degrees and add a half teaspoon of wax per 100 HOT bullets and tumble. When they're all coated, pour them out on a sheet of wax paper and load them the next day. Your alox looks to thick. The rule i always go by is if you can see it, it's too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
but if i just shoot all of them, and have no issue, then i'm all good. and if i do have one or more that collects more lead, then i knoe they are tighter, and i dont have to slug them.
 

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All good info...

More than one way to skin the feline here.

I've been using 45/45/10 recipe from castboolits in 38/357 and 45-70, it's been good to me!

Not hot loads, 1200 or so max. Had a leading problem in the GP100 and SP101, but got the pin gauges in 357, 357 and 359 and used 320 and 600 grit paper on a dowel to open the lee sizer (and the throats) to .3585.

Stick on W/W at low BHN (7 or 8?) up to approx 1150 fps (book, no chrono), no leading and great accuracy. This was 12 gr 4227 with WSP's.

NOW I scarfed up an old Lyman 45 and warmed up the 45/45/10, poured it in and it's off to the races. Lubes the grooves of my Lee 358-158 RF and 358-105, after they dry I give them a second TL coat for the bearing surfaces...

I also have a PATMARLIN 35 plain base chek maker, rock star cans make good cheks! Gonna load up some 14 gr of 4227/CCI mag primers and see how she feels/look for sign (don't expect any at pistol pressures, but WILL look). This is probably where I want to be for mag practice.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
in in eustis/leesburg area. moved here 10 years ago. 6 years in sanford. came here in 95 from cali.
 
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