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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y'all,

I've had my little stock 10/22 for a year or two now. I love the little rifle and have a lot of fun with it. Thanks in part to a very successful fantasy football season I have a little extra cash that I'd like to put towards some upgrades to my rifle. I don't really have a long term plan or strategy in place for it, but I'm perfectly fine keeping it mostly stock. Short term I just want a lightweight & accurate plinker and I'd like to take it to an Appleseed too.

Here's my list of upgrades I'm looking at:
Tech Sights TSR100 (unless somebody knows some better ones, something with an integrated picatinny rail along with upgraded irons would be great, but not if I have to sacrifice accuracy)
Sling swivels and GI web sling
Auto bolt release
Tier 3 Brimstone Trigger job (unless Tier 2 is worth the extra cash, in which case I can bump it up a notch)

Everything else like barrel, stock, etc I'm content with as is. I had considered other things like an extended magazine release, but I really don't have any trouble with the stock one. Then I had also heard of gunsmiths doing some work on your stock bolt or barrel, but I'm not sure how much bang I get for my buck there.

Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated.
 

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Sounds like some good upgrades to me. FWIW, I just swapped my extended mag release for a flush one. I kept bumping it in the field and almost lost a mag on two occasions. I'd leave yours alone.
 

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Looks like you already have a good idea of what you want. I like the BX-25 trigger myself. At any rate, carry on!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the responses. I've already ordered some of the parts, just need to get the TSR 100 and send my trigger group off to Brimstone. I feel like level 3 should be plenty sufficient for my needs. I also picked up the ghost rocket for my SR9 while I was at it.
 

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timeconsumer: The Nodak NDS-26 rear sight has an integrated rail. You can match it with a Nodak NDS-40 front or a Tech-Sights front. Both are equally tall and ajustable. The Nodak front sight has an SKS/AK47-type post which does not have detent notches, but is infinitely adjustable for elevation. The TS front sight comes with an A2-style front post (tapered, 5 clicks per turn) but you can easily replace that with an A4-style post (square top, 4 clicks per turn). The A4 post is easier to see clearly when you are sighting on the target.

Both are excellent quality.

If you have the budget, the Brimstone Tier 2 is definitely worth the extra money. The torsion spring trigger return is smoother, shorter and more positive than the OEM plunger, and includes an adjustable overtravel stop where the plunger used to sit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the info. I had been looking at the Nodak NDS-26 but I wasn't able to find much information about them. I did really love the picture of the "battle rifle" they posted on their site of a rifle with the NDS 26 rail. Have you heard any feedback on these from anyone? How are the windage/elevation adjustments compared to the tech sights? Will the front post adjustment without clicks translate to the appleseed instruction?

So the tier 2 Brimstone is the way to go? If there value is there I can certainly handle the increased cost and I like the idea of the flatter trigger in that upgrade.

And yes Albert, I have a BX25-X2 which is two of the 25 round magazines attached together upside-down. But I mostly use the standard 10 rounders.
 

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Clicks are nice, but the Nodak front sight post is held in place by spring pressure so it won't change while you shoot. Both the Nodak and TS 100 have elevation on the front sight only, and windage on the rear. Both the Nodak and the TS are excellent quality. The key differences are:

Nodak has large and small rear apertures, an integral, and the SKS-type front sight, has 10 windage holes per turn and is all aluminum.

TS100 has no rail, has small rear apertures (long distance is 6MOA higher than short), an A2 5-click per turn front sight, has a 5-click per turn windage and is part polymer (there is nothing wrong with that).

There is no problem adjusting the Nodak front sight for elevation. You don't need clicks for Appleseed, you just need to know how your rifle's sight system works. Just go with the correct fraction of a turn. Here's an explanation and example of how it works: Inches-Minutes-Clicks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Great information and link. Looks like the Nodak may have just jumped to the top of the list.

I really love the look of this rifle on their site:



I can definitely see myself pursuing a similar stock to achieve that look. Although I would add a scope on some elevated rings for a really nice all-around rifle.
 

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If you want to do Appleseed, don't get an ATI folding stock. The cheek rest is too far back for use in the sitting and prone positions and the entire comb sits too high for you to get a proper head position using iron sights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh no worries, I don't plan on replacing the stock anytime soon. Maybe in a few years. For now I just want a better sight and trigger. I just like the NDS to keep that option open for when I get bored down the line.
 

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Sounds alike all good ideas.

The BX25 I bought, worked well for me, others didn't like it, so mileage will vary if you go that router.

I've fired a few different 10/22's before and after different self installed trigger jobs, and all benefited from the trigger job.

For the GI sling, and more so if your using it for Appleseed event, that hardware that you need to go with the sling is important.

The standard hardware stocks are great for AS and work well for most with the TechSights.
I've used a few sets of TechSights, great sights and are PERFECT for AS and are soo much better than the stock sights, it's a huge improvement.


This is an older write up I did with links for the sling hardware....


I had a bunch of links for GI web slings, all those links are dead.....
There are some nice black nylon ones out on the markets somewhere... lots and lots of OD cotton, just look for those catering to the M1 Garand.

Here's one source, the last time I bought these and used them, the buckles provided a very tight lockup, web very dense...

http://www.m1garand.com/store/m1_garand_web_od_cotton_sling.html


Here's the swivel hardware I've used.....

Swivels:

Fixed, rear 1.25" swivel, compatible with Garand sling.
Scattergun Technologies Sling Swivel Wood-Type Screw 1-1/4 Parkerized
(or you can use one of the QD you'll get in a kit below, just make sure the kit you choose below has the wood screw studs to scew into the stock)


For the front so you can attach a Garand Sling to a 10/22 ...
Story Barrel Front barrel band with swivel stud for 10/22, $25
Story Barrel Band Ruger 10/22 Steel
Or
Just want this one for the front band QD stud, since the 1" swivels is too small for the Garand sling:
BlackHawk Lok-Down Sling Swivel Set Ruger 10/22, $14 (comes with all the wood screws - best choice - then just need QD swivel kit from below)
BlackHawk Lok-Down Sling Swivel Set Ruger 10/22 44 Carbine Number 3 1


Now you need 1.25" quality swivels for the front, choices........

Sling QD sets, 1.25" , just want the actual QD's :
Uncle Mike's Quick Detachable Wood Screw Type Sling Swivel Set 1-1/4" Black, with 2 wood screws, $10
Uncle Mike's Quick Detachable Wood Screw Type Sling Swivel Set Black

Uncle Mike's Quick Detachable Machine Screw Type Swivels 1-1/4" Black, with one machine and 1 wood screw, $10
Uncle Mike's Quick Detachable Machine Screw Type Sling Swivel Set

The Outdoor Connection Talon Sling Swivels 1-1/4" Steel Black (1 Pair), swivels only, $9
The Outdoor Connection Talon Sling Swivels 1-1/4 Steel (1 Pair)

Uncle Mike's Quick Detachable Mil-Spec Sling Swivels 1-1/4" Silver , swivels only, $16
Uncle Mike's Quick Detachable Mil-Spec Sling Swivels 1-1/4 Silver
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the info.

I think I'm going to stick with the Brimstone route for the trigger upgrade. I've heard a lot of great things about his work.

For my sling and swivels this is what I ordered:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OQTMQMQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009TTROW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I wanted a black cotton sling and that was the only one I could find. Seems like a decent one, if not a little overpriced.
 

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About the going price now a days...

For the front a QDC is great, I like it as far front forward as possible, and hence tend to use the barrel band and the QDC eyelet that goes on the barrel band.

For the rear, IMHO you don't need a QDC. That Garand sling pretty much has one and it's less hardware on the sling if you take advantage of it. Only need a sling loop large enough for the slip on clip on the rear of the sling... just as the M1 Garand is...
This simulates the rear sling loop on the garand stock
Scattergun Technologies Sling Swivel Wood-Type Screw 1-1/4 Parkerized

 

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For me, playing with the sling hardware, I found what I liked, took me a few tries.
I've done 4-5 10/22's for myself (family) and helped a few others, the combo of sling parts worked well.
It stinks I have to buy a few kits to get all the parts. I called BlackHawk and tried to convince them to offer the parts Ala-carte or make a 10/22 kit.. but never happened.

I"ve used the uncle mikes they are nice.. so are the blackhawk.


The scope and mounts on the 10/22 on the left were replaced,it was crap and the mounts too high. It's what came with it when I bought it for my daughter. She wanted a 10/22 with a scope, I like the iron sights.


Even after a better scope, and the lowest mounts I could use, still need a small check pad to get the sight plane correct and repeatable through the scope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Interesting, appreciate the perspective. I'll take a look when the Mike's QDC kit I ordered arrives and see what I think. I may opt to simply drill into the stock just shy of the barrel band, or if I think that would be too clunky I'll look into that eyelet for the barrel band. For the rear I think I'll try it out with the swivel and if it seems more trouble than it's worth I'll grab a fixed one. Thanks for sharing your experience.
 

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The barrel band sling swivel is one of the worst contraptions ever devised. It will bend the barrel and change your point of impact. The barrel band is not a structural part of the 10/22 - it is cosmetic only. One purpose of the stock is to protect the barrel from pressures that would harm accuracy. That's why a good, stiff forearm is the place to put the sling.

Even some stocks, like the lighter polymer stock and especially the Hogue Overmold, are too flexible and will press on the barrel under sling tension.
 

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The BBSwivel as always worked very well for me.

Using the BBSwivel has no worse effect than drilling into the stock.
The OEM stock bends. now adays these stock are nearly basically pressed paper veneered.

With the BBS, no worries of splitting the stock by going too far forward past the BB.
(yes for me, behind the BB crowds the forestock for me. Again mileage varies by the person)

For those I've known that have eliminated the BB on a stock 10/22, mileage has been all over the place. I've had no issues keeping it on the 4 OEM pencil barrel with a BBS.
Delete the BB, and then we get into the whole thing of free floating the barrel on the OEM design. There's a reason the barrel is supported in the stock.

I can change the POI on Garands and 03a3's from slinging up as well.

With all else being perfect, and getting into the minutia of of changes,
The real solution to "bending" (changing POI from different pressures of slinging up / different positions / repeatability) the OEM 10/22 stock is going to a better aftermarket stock. The laminate stocks are stronger, and about the best alternative VS Price.

I agree the common "plastic" stocks that have popped up out there that I've seen out on the line have been worse that the OEM stock. You can feel them bend. But the OEM bends as well too.
 
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