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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Today for the first time the Vaquero froze when I cocked it. I didn't pull too hard on the hammer after I met resistance. I opened the gate, spun the cylinder, all was forgiven by the gun, and it cocked smoothly after that.

Tonight it happened again. I knew I'd seen something recently and I found this:

"The rear end of the base pin has a small spring loaded plunger. The purpose of the plunger is to push the transfer bar to the rear when cocking so it won't stub on the firing pin. If the base pin isn't fully seated or if the plunger is stuck, it will cause your exact problem" (i.e., a lockup)

I checked the base pin and it's solidly in place. No clue what it was, but it's happened twice. I don't know how much simpler a mechanism can get, than a single action revolver. I've been inside a S&W before and there's plenty that could happen in a DA gun, but this?
 

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or if the plunger is stuck
Should add "or long enough" . I had this problem, but it was because the plunger was to short, so even when fully seated the transfer bar didn't fully clear the firing pin. Point the gun at the ground and try to repeat.... Pull on the base pin (there is a bit of play usually) forward and repeat. Might be 'just' a bit off....
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
"Pull on the base pin (there is a bit of play usually) forward and repeat."

Thinking the base pin wasn't contacting enough, I pushed back on it. (It pushes forward a tad just from spring pressure.) I couldn't recreate the problem, but I believe a single action should cock like butter, so I'll do something about it. I'm about to swap the base pin out for a Colt style anyway, and eventually I'll get the hammer/trigger kit that eliminates the transfer bar.

Awhile back I owned an Old Model Blackhawk in .357 (don't have much use for the caliber but it was a nice gun). The traditional clicks are like music to my ears, and I'd sacrifice a round to hear them. I'll have to carry something else though. Six rounds don't feel like enough, and five would be worse. It's not that you couldn't get the job done with six -- it's the slow reload. I'll get a strip, too.
 

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I carry 5 in a double action revolver. All I want to do is get out of town. I figure if I get to a reload then I'm in it deeper than I should be. If the Vaquero is your choice then get real good with it as a double tap usually isn't necessary with a 45. What the old poster states: 45 because shooting twice is just silly.
 

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I had a similar problem with my Vaquero 44 mag. It was due to the transfer bar not clearing the firing pin when cocking. A thorough cleaning and lube cleared the problem and it has not recurred.
 

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Carbon fouling getting into the plunger is all that happened. The best remedy is simply Break Free CLP, Ballistol, or... what I said. Put just one drop on the plunger and actuate the spring a few times, and you'll never have a problem. That's a great design they came up with and beats the empty chamber routine. My pet six shooter is a (new) Vaquero bright stainless 4-5/8 .44 Special. :D
 

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"Pull on the base pin (there is a bit of play usually) forward and repeat."

Thinking the base pin wasn't contacting enough, I pushed back on it. (It pushes forward a tad just from spring pressure.) I couldn't recreate the problem, but I believe a single action should cock like butter, so I'll do something about it. I'm about to swap the base pin out for a Colt style anyway, and eventually I'll get the hammer/trigger kit that eliminates the transfer bar.

Awhile back I owned an Old Model Blackhawk in .357 (don't have much use for the caliber but it was a nice gun). The traditional clicks are like music to my ears, and I'd sacrifice a round to hear them. I'll have to carry something else though. Six rounds don't feel like enough, and five would be worse. It's not that you couldn't get the job done with six -- it's the slow reload. I'll get a strip, too.
The fastest reload in a SA is a loaded cylinder swap! If you try it, you'll like it. Doesn't take much practice at all to get PDQ. One secret is a longer cyl pin that can not come out of the gun because of the ejector rod. The Super BH rod does the trick on most Rugers.
 

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I've had the same situation. Fiddle with the base pin/cylinder a little bit and everything clears up. I've looked at the transfer bar as I was having difficulty and I believed it to be well clear of the firing pin. I'm going to the range this weekend and I'll take my Vaquero out to see if it gives me any more issues. If it does, I'll check the pin/transfer bar.

I've contacted Ruger about it and they've said to send it back. Just haven't done it yet.
 

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I have the same problem with 2 of my ruger single actions. I ck'd the cylinder pin & transfer bar...both seem OK. I cleaned both anyway. Today when I took them out the trigger froze again. I looked & it seems like the transfer bar is over the firing pin OK but still wont fire It feels like the trigger clicks over something & if i release it a little & pull the hammer back just a fraction the hammer will fall but not fire> any suggestions? Seems just fine unloaded trigger & hammer both work perfect.
 

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I have the same problem with 2 of my ruger single actions. I ck'd the cylinder pin & transfer bar...both seem OK. I cleaned both anyway. Today when I took them out the trigger froze again. I looked & it seems like the transfer bar is over the firing pin OK but still wont fire It feels like the trigger clicks over something & if i release it a little & pull the hammer back just a fraction the hammer will fall but not fire> any suggestions? Seems just fine unloaded trigger & hammer both work perfect.
If it only happens loaded it almost has to be the ammunition. If you have a high primer, the cylinder won't rotate and the hammer won't cock.

With the loading gate open, does the cylinder then rotate freely with cartridges in the chambers?
 

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Thanks Backshot. i was beginning to wonder if it was just me! :D

I understand about the transfer bar interference issue but that really didn't appear to be the issue with my Vaquero.

I took a look at it and it seems to have the same situation going on as you describe. I peeked down into the action as I was opening the hammer and there's a pin-like part (Hammer Plunger?) that rides on the cylinder stop. Right at the point where the pin slips over the stop is where my gun usually forgets how to operate. I put a little dab of lube on the tip of the pin and will see if it helps.
There is a lot going on right at the point between the hammer movement, the cylinder stop and the loading gate mechanism.
 

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Pawneefork.... Intermittent symptom sounds like it could be roughness on the standing breech.

Remove cylinder and look closely at the ride-up ramp to the "recoil plate" area of the standing breech. During carry-up, the cartridge rim must glide smoothly from the raw casting to the machined headspace surface. If there is a sharp edge, it can catch a rim and stop rotation.

This hang-up may happen when the revolver is held level or muzzle up, probably not when held muzzle-down. You may or may not be able to test for this with fired cases. Dummy rounds work better.

By carefully taping the standing breech----leave the ridge between cast and machined area exposed----you may blend out the offending ridge with a Dremel tool or jeweler's file.

Don't know whether this is the problem without looking at your revolver.
David Bradshaw
 

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If the gun has been apart, sometimes the loading gate spring pops out from under the gate shaft. Check for it sticking out between the loading gate and the rear face of the cylinder. It will make the loading gate hard to open and shut if it is sticking out.
 
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