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Well I took the plunge and ordered a spring kit and blackhawk hammer for my 44 special and all I gotta say is HOLY CRAP!

I am new to the single actions, as I am a 1911 fella. I gotta say if you want to learn your gun then by all means tear into it. It only took two hours to get everything running right.

But I've got a question; the new hammer when it's down it still has a small gap between the face and the frame. I'm thinking that the lower part of the hammer has a little bit of a high spot that is possibly resting on the transfer bar.

Does anyone have a suggestion?
 

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Search transfer bar pinch; you ll find many resources to fix this issue. Solution for me was to file the second step on the hammer to fit. On my new vaquero it has worked great, on my blackhawk the traNsfer bar broke anyhow.

Sean
 

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But I've got a question; the new hammer when it's down it still has a small gap between the face and the frame. I'm thinking that the lower part of the hammer has a little bit of a high spot that is possibly resting on the transfer bar.
Search transfer bar pinch; you ll find many resources to fix this issue.
If he's talking about a gap when the hammer is down and the trigger is NOT back, then it's not the typical "Ruger transfer bar pinch".

If it's resting on the TB when the hammer is down and the trigger is forward, it's pretty easy to figure out what's up - paint the rear side of the TB and front edge of the hammer with Dykem, or fully cover with a magic marker, then reassemble the revolver. Leave the hammer down, even apply a light pressure with your thumb, pushing it down, and pull the trigger slightly rearward several times. If you're making contact with the action "at rest," that test will tell you where it's making contact.

Dress the appropriate part based on where it's making contact.
 

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The information below is not mine, it was graciously sent to me by fellow member Hondo44 when I was swapping out hammers. It's very clear and concise information on testing the functioning after replacement. I don't think he will mind me sharing this to help out another of our members that are unfamiliar with all of the ins & outs of these fine revolvers. I REALLY like the new look and feel of a SBH hammer on my Lipsey .44 Special. So Hat's Off to Jim for all of the help he has provided to me in repairing two of my favorite guns.

From Hondo44:
AFTER CHANGING HAMMERS in New Model Rugers, the first thing to check is the transfer bar clearance with hammer for reliable firing pin function.
TO TEST HAMMER/TRANSFER BAR FOR MISS-FIRES:
With hammer fully cocked, press on the transfer bar to extend the firing pin and observe how far thru the recoil shield it protrudes. Now keep the trigger pulled back, drop the hammer and observe the firing pin again. If firing pin protrudes the same amount, you’re good to go. If it doesn't protrude the same amount, you need to remove just enough metal from the top face of the hammer nose so the transfer bar is pushed tight against the firing pin and the frame. If you remove too much, the transfer bar will not perform its safety function and will be pinched. Also make sure hammer has no friction or contact with grip frame ears around its base to slow its fall and you may have miss-fires; another potential issue when making hammer changes.

IF TRIGGER DOESN”T RETURN, SAFETY IS NOT WORKING:
If the transfer bar is hanging up under the hammer face, since it's connected to the trigger, it prevents the trigger from returning. The transfer bar is slightly too thick. If both ends of the trigger return spring are connected (under the grips), or even if you have only one leg of the spring connected it should pull down the transfer bar if it's the correct thickness. When this happens, the transfer bar safety function will not work. If the gun were dropped, and a live round in the chamber under the hammer will fire.

This is not uncommon however, and it's a very simple fix. File the second step of the hammer face, counting from the top, just a bit until the bar no longer hangs up. Don't take too much off or you'll have miss-fires. If that happens file a little more off the top step of the hammer.

IF YOU HAD TO MODIFY HAMMER NOSE:
At the range, double check the safety function by loading a live round under the hammer, point down range, cock the hammer, hold with thumb, release the trigger to uncock the hammer, take finger off trigger and release your thumb so the hammer falls. The round will not fire if safety transfer bar is functioning correctly.

Hope this helps,
Jim
 
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