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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ordered ny first one from the description
Ruger 22/45 Mark III Hunter, Stainless, Fluted 6.88" barrel.
The dealer's part number is their own, nothing to do with Ruger's part number.
I received the gun, and opening it I notice it's the plastic non-removable grips.

I ordered the 22/45 specifically because I have a few grips and finger grooves that I want to play around with.

Dealer agrees to take it back for a restocking fee.

I finally get it.

At first I did not like the V rear-sights.
When shooting I noticed that I was tilting my hand-grip (and thus the whole pistol) a bit to the right when I was getting my sight-picture.
A fellow shooter told me the sight was out of kilter and to check it, place the gun upside down on a perfectly flat surface resting on the very narrow triangle formed by the front sight and the two edges of the rear-sight. Did that and looking at it from the shooter's side the gun was canted to the right.
I tested that at home with a square placed right next to the gun, and the degree of cant was even more apparent then.

However, it was a Ruger, and therefore worth the Modifications advised and suggested by many (here and elsewhere).

So I ordered more grip panels, a VQ rear-sight (square notch), a VQ sear (which I had a gunsmith install) and then the VQ Target Hammer and a Sam Lam made-to-size bushing.

Now, the magazine would eject when the eject button was pushed.
Disassembly and reassembly was faster without having to take the magazine out then in then out then in then out.

However.
The cant still existed.
And the magazine would eject itself, occasionally, once it fed the last round.

I ordered the more expensive VQ raer-sight with Night Sights.

The cant STILL was there. And it's very unnerving to be getting a sight picture where you concentrate on the front-sight, centering it between the two shoulders of the rear-sight and then NOTICING that a horizontal line drawn through the center of the rear of the bolt was not parallel to the tops of the rear-sight.

I took pictures and emailed Ruger for the name/location of their Canadian repair representative (which I also found on the Ruger site) with the explanation of this situation.
Next day, I'm disassembling the gun to clean it. MainSpring unlatched and bolt stop pin out, the bolt refuses to come OUT more than a couple of cms.
I push it back in and am completely unable to take it out.

So I sent it in to the Repair Facility in Quebec waiting to hear their verdict.
I asked them in the meantime to return the VQ, non-Ruger parts that were in the gun.
I forgot to mention at the beginning, I also installed a VQ Exact Edge Extractor.

I know the gun can be a beaut to shoot. I was getting acceptable results with my reverse-smaller-angle-ganga-style grip but constantly twisting an untwisting my wrist made me almost seasick.

If (big IF) the fault is with the slot (cutout) where the rear-sights are wedged (i.e., it was not machined at exactly 90 degrees off horizontal and IF Ruger decides not to replace it, My next question will be:

Can I buy a 22/45 Mark III (Stainless Stell doesn't matter. Blued is fine) and barrel length 6.88" doesn't matter (I'd like to try a 5.5) and would it fit into the lower part of what I have?

Is this findable? Obtainable (I'm in Canada).

And if done the registration on this handgun would have to be changed to the new barrel serial number (and description as to barrel length).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The serial number usually has only to do with the lower of any gun. These seem to be very popular

Pac-Lite Barrel Upgrade for the Ruger 22/45 and MK Series Pistols | Tactical Solutions
Thanks for the tip.

A distributor would have to get it for me (if it comes to that). I'm in Canada.
Let's see what the Ruger Repair Facility in Canada says.

For the price of a pac-lite-barrel (with fibre-optics front) I could probably get a brand new 22/45 Mark III blued in 5.5"
 

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Yea true, I forgot the 22/45 are around $300. I got the MKIII Hunter for 520 around here so i thought the Pac-Lite werent terrible for the price. I've seen a lot of pics with those on the 22/45 lower and they have a cool tactical look. I like the blue fluted. Sucks about your sights, I've never checked mine but they seem to be on for mine. Ill try that putting it on as table on its sights and check next time I have it out. I've had my MKIII Hunter since July last year and I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Vindicated

Yea true, I forgot the 22/45 are around $300. I got the MKIII Hunter for 520 around here so i thought the Pac-Lite werent terrible for the price. I've seen a lot of pics with those on the 22/45 lower and they have a cool tactical look. I like the blue fluted. Sucks about your sights, I've never checked mine but they seem to be on for mine. Ill try that putting it on as table on its sights and check next time I have it out. I've had my MKIII Hunter since July last year and I like it.

The Canadian Ruger repair centre sent my upper to Ruger who did determine that the rear-sight dovetail was machined at a wrong angle. Since they no longer produce the Stainless Steel 6.5" they offered a replacement with any of their 22/45s including their latest "Lite", whose colours I detest.

I selected the
P512MKIIIRP 10140 Alloy Steel Blued Checkered Cocobolo 5.50" 9.50" 33.00 oz

...and something tells me that after one and a half years of showing fellow shooters the cant of the gun when rested on its three-point sights, I'll finally be able to explain (or no longer have an alibi for) my poor scores.

Can't wait to get my new toy.

:D:D:D:D:D
 

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The Canadian Ruger repair centre sent my upper to Ruger who did determine that the rear-sight dovetail was machined at a wrong angle. Since they no longer produce the Stainless Steel 6.5" they offered a replacement with any of their 22/45s including their latest "Lite", whose colours I detest.

I selected the
P512MKIIIRP 10140 Alloy Steel Blued Checkered Cocobolo 5.50" 9.50" 33.00 oz

...and something tells me that after one and a half years of showing fellow shooters the cant of the gun when rested on its three-point sights, I'll finally be able to explain (or no longer have an alibi for) my poor scores.

Can't wait to get my new toy.

:D:D:D:D:D
Good to hear they took care of you. Let us know how the new one works out for you. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good to hear they took care of you. Let us know how the new one works out for you. :)
It's going to take a few weeks since it has to be imported from the US and then the Repair Centre/Dealer needs to de-register my previous handgun and have a new registration issued.
Then it'll be the interminable wait for Canada Post to give me a tracking number. It'll show the gun immobile, not moving less than 200 miles from where I am. Then it'll show up at a Postal facility that's almost in Pacific Standard time, then it'll move to Montreal (even closer to me than the original sender and even closer itself to the original sender's PostOffice.

Then it'll show delivered and signed for (at home) while I'm still at work and there's NOBODY in my apartment to sign or take delivery.
 

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It's going to take a few weeks since it has to be imported from the US and then the Repair Centre/Dealer needs to de-register my previous handgun and have a new registration issued.
Then it'll be the interminable wait for Canada Post to give me a tracking number. It'll show the gun immobile, not moving less than 200 miles from where I am. Then it'll show up at a Postal facility that's almost in Pacific Standard time, then it'll move to Montreal (even closer to me than the original sender and even closer itself to the original sender's PostOffice.

Then it'll show delivered and signed for (at home) while I'm still at work and there's NOBODY in my apartment to sign or take delivery.
Wow. And I thought USPS was bad! Good luck with the arrival of the new pistol. :(
 

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I have the exact pistol you are to receive as a replacement.

If it helps, I'm happy to say that it was perfect out of the box, with a good trigger and very accurate. Very well made, with no burrs or metal flakes inside, etc.

Good luck with yours!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have the exact pistol you are to receive as a replacement.

If it helps, I'm happy to say that it was perfect out of the box, with a good trigger and very accurate. Very well made, with no burrs or metal flakes inside, etc.

Good luck with yours!
Thanks for the re-assurance.
I will however be changing the grips (left grip with thumbrest and a flexible grip that goes under the main grip with finger grooves.)
I hope it doesn't come with the V-rear-sights. I hated those on my SS 22/45 MKIII.
I do however have Williams rear-sights ready to be installed and fibre-optic fronts.

I won't play with the innards for a long time. I guess I will have to endure the magazine safety (I don't mind it for regular use but I hate it when you're disassembling/reassembling and you need a bean counter to keep track of Mag-in, Mag-out, Mag-in, Mag-out, etc.....)

I actually like the loaded chamber indicator, since at times one does not realize that the last shot is gone and the bolt/slide is locked back.

I'm waiting to get it with the same trepidation I had when expecting my first firearms license (just over a year and a half ago) and my first handgun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update

They offered me a 22/45 Lite (as it would be coming into Canada earlier than my expected regular 22/45 Mark III) and I said, "Yes".
Got it delivered yesterday and took it shooting this morning.
a) The anodized Gold-look upper is not as gaudy or shrill as I thought. It's more of a whitish metallic tinge.
b) It shoots very low with the sights that they installed from my defective Hunter. I hated those sights anyway, V-notch. When I had asked them to keep my old sights, I thought I had specified my front, fibre-optic ones.

Anyway came home and installed Williams rear-sights and will have the range to myself tomorrow morning to sight-it in.

It's already wearing new grips with the finger grooves.

More news later.
 

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Man, now that is a long one. Please update us on the of this story and the replacement Ruger. This has to be a Happe ending.
 

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3strokes, man that was a long time coming, thanks for keeping us up to speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The saga continues

So I finally receive my replacement 22/45 Lite (Is it ever light!)

At the same time a fellow forumite on CanadianGunNutz.com is looking for a scope base for his daughter's 22/45.
I have an extra one since I returned my original badly-machine one without the scope base.
So I offer to send him mine (not sell, just send) and explain my story.
He is elated and then tells me that if I ever think of selling my Lite, to let him have first option. And he sends me a pix of his daughter (9-ish or so) holding her Stainless Steel 22/45 with a red dot mounted on it.

I immediately emailed him that if his daughter's heavy 22/45 was the model with replaceable grips, I'd gladly exchange my Lite for it. Unfortunately the one they have is without the "RP" qualifier. He then tells me that he has a regular 22/45 blued. I agree to the exchange and therefore my last Ruger is a run-of-the-mill Mark III 22/45
I'm getting used to it.

Now comes the tricky part where I'll probably need a bit of extra help from bullseye.
I have or have ordered the following parts
VQ long magazine release button (and it does not install the regular way.)
VQ Exact Edge Extractor
VQ Firing Pin
These two I know how to install.

Next I'm waiting for
VQ Target Sear
VQ Target Hammer
VQ Mark II Bushing (to eliminate the magazine safety)
VQ Target Trigger (and VQ say they send it along with extra -longer- screws.

I have gone through 2245 Maintenance Page
and am quite confident that I can replace all those parts, because bullseye's explanations and pictures are so very detailed.

BUT (you knew that there would be a But.......)
The Magazine ejector button is not addressed in those pages.
This weekend I'll give it a try but if I find I'm going to screw-up, it'll be Off to the gunsmith. There's only one in town.
 

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The same piano spring that holds the trigger pivot pin also pulls double duty and locks in the magazine release button in a 22/45 frame (regardless of generation). Replacing the button would be easier if you waited until you received all the parts for the sear and trigger upgrade since you will need to evacuate these parts to do open up the piano spring and release the button. First you remove the hammer assembly with the hammer bushing. Next you remove the trigger from the frame - this is accomplished by depressing on the piano spring from the top with a tool like a small diameter Allen wrench. Slide the pivot pin out of the frame and release the trigger and disconnector lever from the frame. Now all you have to contend with is the piano spring. With the trigger pivot pin removed you can lift up the front side of the piano spring and swing it rearward. The bottom end of the piano spring is fastened to the frame via a small 1/16" dia hole just beneath the semi-circular portion of the magazine release button on the right side of the polymer frame. Once swung rearward, the spring releases the button and you can slide it out of the left side of the frame. Slide in the replacement extended mag release button and swing the piano spring back forward in the frame until it sits back into the little channel on the right side of the trigger access hole. Remove and replace the sear. Then install the hammer, bushing, then replace the trigger with the disconnector (be sure that you have the trigger return plunger and spring installed into the top of the trigger, and trigger pivot pin. Check the operation of the components prior to installing the receiver by using your thumb to catch the hammer when released by the trigger and mainspring. Reinstall the receiver and you're done.

Depending on your level of experience with full detail stripping these pistols this procedure in the minimal amount of time should take approximately 15 minutes to complete, if you're highly experienced, 45 to and hour if your not as experienced.

R,
Bullseye
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The same piano spring that holds the trigger pivot pin also pulls double duty and locks in the magazine release button in a 22/45 frame (regardless of generation). Replacing the button would be easier if you waited until you received all the parts for the sear and trigger upgrade since you will need to evacuate these parts to do open up the piano spring and release the button. First you remove the hammer assembly with the hammer bushing. Next you remove the trigger from the frame - this is accomplished by depressing on the piano spring from the top with a tool like a small diameter Allen wrench. Slide the pivot pin out of the frame and release the trigger and disconnector lever from the frame. Now all you have to contend with is the piano spring. With the trigger pivot pin removed you can lift up the front side of the piano spring and swing it rearward. The bottom end of the piano spring is fastened to the frame via a small 1/16" dia hole just beneath the semi-circular portion of the magazine release button on the right side of the polymer frame. Once swung rearward, the spring releases the button and you can slide it out of the left side of the frame. Slide in the replacement extended mag release button and swing the piano spring back forward in the frame until it sits back into the little channel on the right side of the trigger access hole. Remove and replace the sear. Then install the hammer, bushing, then replace the trigger with the disconnector (be sure that you have the trigger return plunger and spring installed into the top of the trigger, and trigger pivot pin. Check the operation of the components prior to installing the receiver by using your thumb to catch the hammer when released by the trigger and mainspring. Reinstall the receiver and you're done.

Depending on your level of experience with full detail stripping these pistols this procedure in the minimal amount of time should take approximately 15 minutes to complete, if you're highly experienced, 45 to and hour if your not as experienced.

R,
Bullseye

First thing I'm gonna do tomorrow morning when I get to the office (right after I offer two virgin goats in sacrifice to your altar) is print out your instructions in large fonts and try to do a visual replay of your instructions.
Next I need to find me a Piano shop. I know what piano hinges look like, not piano springs. I know what piano wires look like (some hit-men use them).

Yup. I'll be studying your 2245 maintenance pages and waiting for the rest of the parts (best advice ever yet). I feel like I'm almost there. What I did today was print out the text of your 22/45 appropriate maintenance sections (Mark III 22/45)
Then I clicked on each and every picture and printed the magnified pix. I now, have me, an illustrated step-by-step guide.

Oddly enough, doing it this way, cleared up a lot of points which I could not even visualize before. Like the Sear replacement. It felt too "deep" for me.
On my previous 22/45 (the S.S. Hunter which went back to the Ruger smelter) I had managed to install a VQ hammer with a Sam, Lam Bushing. It took me about half an..... no, half a day. If God had meant for men to dabble inside gun parts HE (or SHE) would have given us three hands.

Bullseye, your helpful attitude coupled with your Encyclopedic knowledge never ceases to amaze (and to cause gratitude). I just hope I'm -eventually- worthy of all the time and effort you spend in educating us. I try and read all your posts on both Fora (Ruger and Guntalk). I always appreciate a specialist talking about his area of expertise. Thank you. (Yes. I'll let you know if your help has been in vain or not. I'm waiting on eye surgery to correct a prism ---caused by retinal surgery--- before I can even think of having my glasses re-prescribed.) Thankfully my Optometrist is not an anti. She understood what I said when I said that I use my computer glasses to shoot because that's the distance to my front-sights. After surgery I'll get not only the usual but also computer distance AND shooting distance where the focus is a bit farther away (what with 5.5" and 6.5" barrels on different guns).
 
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