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I would dry fire it a few thousand times it will smoth the acgion and will not hurt a ruger and it is free. Just make sure no ammo is around.
 

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I have one of these revolvers. The 5 1/2" SS Bisley. Mine is the convertible though, and has the extra cylinder. I probably only have about a hundred rounds through it so far. I'm boxing it up right now to be shipped off to a gunsmith to have the barrel chopped to 4 5/8" because I can't get a .45 convertible adjustable-sighted large-framed Bisley with that barrel length from the factory. Since I'm shipping the gun off anyway, I will also be having some grips made for it, getting a basic action job, and a fitted base pin. I do not think these modifications are required, I'm just getting them done more for convenience and my own ego.

My two other single action revolvers also wear a 4 5/8" barrel because it is the barrel length I prefer. I find that it balances the best for me, it is the easiest to carry out of the three typical barrel lengths, it is the lightest, and the quickest for me to shoot. I just want this Bisley to have the same barrel length to keep the uniformity.

So in my case, I'm doing it for a specific personal reason. But if you are asking if the gun "needs" anything done to it, my answer is no. Just shoot it and have fun! And you can always modify the gun later if you decide that's what you want.
 

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Ream the cylinders to .452,have forcing cone reamed to 11 degrees, fire lap barrel, trigger job, belt mountain base pin, custom grips, free spin pawl, bullseye ejector rod,good leather holster to pack it in.

I was , am , in the process of doing this to the pistol in my avatar. Then I bought a Lipsey 44 special Bisley flattop. Short on funds to do this all at once since I bought a new pistol


A Tom threepersons holster is on order and waiting now
 

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It gives a lighter trigger pull and smooths it out if there is any creep. Sorry, I originally gave kind of a flip answer. The first thing I would do is to shoot the revolver stock as it came new and make sure function is all good, then the lighter trigger spring would be the second thing I would do.
You could lighten the hammer spring as well but not too light. I would go with a weight in between the ranges available. Check first which weight is stock first. It will make the hammer a little easier to pull back without compromising too much lock time.

Check the transfer bar's height for it being too high (long). You don't want the transfer bar to be hit by the top step of the hammer. It is my understanding that condition can eventually break the bar even though the gun will still fire OK. On my Vaquero, the bar was being nicked by the top step. I thought it was just a burr somewhere. I filed the top of the bar down until is was fully clear but still making contact with the firing pin. You check for this condition when the trigger is pulled all the way back, hammer cocked. Hold the trigger back hard after it breaks the sear and bring down the hammer slowly and feel for any contact while the trigger is back. The hammer of course will be pushing in on the firing pin but what you want to feel for or see is the bar making any contact with the top step of the hammer.

Unlike my Vaquero, my Blackhawk Hunter would appear that its transfer bar was a bit short. There is ample clearance from the top step and would almost appear that it is barely covering half the firing pin when the trigger is pulled to near sear breaking-point but once the sear breaks, allowing the hammer to fall, there is still some rear movement of the trigger and the rising of the transfer bar. At that extreme point the transfer bar is well over the firing pin when struck by the hammer. It shoots fine so think nothing of it. On my Single Six Hunter, the same story. My Vaquero definetly needed the transfer bare to be shortened just a small amount.

Other things you could check for is cylinder end shake, barrel to cylinder gap, headspace and timing. Timing: The bolt locking into the cylinder and the trigger sear locking into the hammer when pulling back on the hammer should both happen simultaneously (one sounding click). When checking that, drag a finger on the cylinder lightly while cocking the hammer back. This can indicate if the sear is engaging into the hammer before the bolt. If the bolt clicks in after the sear, that would indicate the Hand or Pawl is too short. On my 1872 Uberti Open Top revolver the bolt was locking into the cylinder before the sear 50% of the time. The hammer would just immediately fall unless you pulled it back hard. I stoned the Pawl down and that took care of the problem. The pawl was a little too long. Since then, I have sent it off to an expert tuner who specializes in Civil War period guns.
 

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my suggestions

I find a that lightening the hammer cocking was really nice.
Then, lighter trigger pull.
Possibly polishing chambers
Possibly doing a reverse pawl job
and for me, thinning the grips a bit made them more comfortable.

I agree, shoot the crap out of it before doing anything.
I did a year of cowboy action shooting before I did any work.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well, near as I can tell the chamber throats measure .451

Took it the the range and shot 3 different loads. Buffalo Bore standard load with 255gr bullets, Factory Win 250gr LFN and some reloads with 8gr of Unique and 260 LFN bullets.

All set pretty well but not as good as my USFA Rodeo.

I was pleased to see no leading.

I'll continue to play around with different loads but I like the way the gun feels and handles.
 

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With my eyes, I would put some orange fingernail polish on the front sight and shoot the heck out of it. If the trigger seemed a little heavy, I would do the "poor man trigger job" and it would be good to go for me.
Excellent looking revolver! I have 5 Ruger single action revolvers but none with a Bisley grip.

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Went to the range today and shot Hornady 250gr XTPs over 4227. Pretty please with the groups. This was 12 yds.

 

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1) New sights

2) Trigger work

3) New grips

4) Check cylinder throats, ream if needed

Same as I do for any of my Rugers
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
So I went down the road of changing out the springs. Tried the 17lb - 24lb springs. They all felt too light for me so I went back to the factory ones. One positive is I learned a lot about the inner workings of the gun.

I did have a Doctor Optic reflex sight laying around and at my age seeing the iron sights is a challenge. So I ordered the Raptor Engineering sight base and it showed up today, very slick piece of engineering. Mounts into the existing screw hole.

Going to try it out this weekend.



 
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