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Discussion Starter #1
Right, i'm getting myself confused here - to many people telling me different thigs.

Solvent - for general internal cleaning/degreasing/nitro solvent.
Oil - for barrel only....
Grease - Bolt guides and trigger mech...


So, im planning on using parker hale 009 as a solvent, A "magnetic" engine oil as a light lube for the barrel, and a basic grease for the trigger and spring/guides.

( grease ) Engine Oil and Lubricants Castrol UK - CASTROL CLASSIC GREASES


can someone tell me if im on the right lines here - some folk are telling that i need NO grease/oil on the bolt contact areas, others are telling me oil only, others say grease is best ( obv it's gonna be a very light coat !)



any comments welcome, not cleaning/greasing for at least a week yet !
 

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I still like g-96 for general use and rem oil for others. I do no not do much deep cold shooting so I only use graphite in a rare circumstance.
 

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I may be out in left field here, but I use GUN cleaning and lubricating products on my firearms. There are many quality products designed for use with guns so I see no need to try to roll my own.

I use an aerosol product from Hornady for cleaning and lubrication:

Hornady Manufacturing Company :: Reloading :: Metallic Reloading :: Tools & Gauges :: Lubes & Cleaners :: One Shot® Gun Cleaner 5.5 Oz w/Dyna Glide Plus



I use this stuff for everything. If I think I need to use oil on something, I simply use gun oil. Works for me.....
 

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I use the old faithful Hoppes for cleaning and a light oil on everything. NO GREASE used here. Grease is thick and VEREY prone to attracting and hoarding anything that touches it. All that's needed is a verrry light amount of good oil. Actually, synthetic motor oil is darn good for that and a quart goes a long, long ways.
 

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Good luck on this.....ask 2 people you will get three answers.....easily. So many products, and they all work well. With a simple, well designed weapon like the 10/22 there really is no need for some ultra tech lube to keep it running and gunning for longer than you will be around to shoot it. One thing I would say though, get products designed for guns, automotive lubes are designed to handle different stresses and environments.
 

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Personally, I use EEZOX. I picked it up on suggestion at my lgs. It cleans exceptionally well, lubricates and keeps residual buildup from occuring. Also for the guys with nickle or stainless finishes it has a huge advantage as it resists fingerprints.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Right, so ditch the grease, obv 009 is a decent solvent.


magnatec oil is fully synthetic, nice and light, and "sticks" to metal. plus, its cheap. i like cheap !

OR, would i be better off using a silicon based oil ?


thanks again for your advice guys, great forum, decent answers....makes a change from the norm!


Got new shooting land today, massive golf course, thats me got nearly 3000 acres. Time to buy a 22.250 ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Cleaned out my magazines today, 2x10shot ruger mags, and a 25 shot butler creek.

Usual method for the ruger mags, strip, good soak with 009, then a scrub, another soak/scrub, then a wipe down. re-assembled and dried on a warm radiator.

soaked the butler creek mag in 009, scrubed the steel lips, then washed inside with very hot soapy water ( bunged up the end, and shook. Did a great job, dried on radiator, then oiled the strip spring ( using a needle and syringe, so as not to get any on surfaces which would transfer oil to the rounds)


Shame its p'ing down with rain, i'll need to get out in the morning.
 

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I'm in the group that thinks there is no right or wrong product to use. The key is to not over do it. Leaving a thin film is the key. You don't want something sticky for carbon or grit to stick to and then start working as a lapping compound and eating at the metal it's trying to protect. This is why I find it funny to hear people don't clean their guns after each use. You don't need a harsh or abrasive cleaner that will also add to the wear on your gun, and you don't need to allow build up to slowly eat at it either. I'm not sold yet on the dry film lube since they don't have a track record yet with use and wear.

There was a thread talking about 1911 frame rails and lube. Iowegan made a really informative post that showed his years of experience. I won't quote hime, but I took away from his post pretty much what I stated above. If you lube so much that it attracts the carbon and grit then you will wear out metal on metal contact areas. Besides, if you over lube then be prepared for the squirt in your face the first few shots. And if you have wood then it will absorb the oils and slowly break down. Laminate won't absorb it as it doesn't have the open pores or regular wood.

My final advice would be to learn to break down your 10/22 and give it a good cleaning and a light thin film of lube and it will out last you.
 

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I use the old faithful Hoppes for cleaning and a light oil on everything. NO GREASE used here. Grease is thick and VEREY prone to attracting and hoarding anything that touches it. All that's needed is a verrry light amount of good oil. Actually, synthetic motor oil is darn good for that and a quart goes a long, long ways.
It depends on the weapon. I use grease on M1 Carbines, M1's, and M1A's.

But never on a 10/22.
 

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I use a needle oiler when I assemble the TG and use a very small amount on the hammer pin and the trigger pins. Other then that, all I lub is the charging handle rod with two small drops of oil.

I instruct with the Appleseed Project and my rifles will run over 500 rounds without a problem.
 

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Greetings: Yes everybody has opinion about everything. As do I, which I will withhold Yet nobody has answered the - what to clean and lube a blued SBH. Both commercial and 'field' products. Many say Carb/Brake cleaner will strip the blue as will many of the detergents in motor oil. Recommendations of both commercial and 'field' products? Field products described as not retail. Ur in the desert or forest. There is no gun shop or WallyWorld over the next hill. U might have automotive stuff in Ur vehicle.
 

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OK guys, here is N oldie but a goody. A redneck said use black (used) motor oil on a rusting blue SBH. Hmmmm. Yep, that will make it dark alright. How may Yays? Nays? And the winning vote is...?
 

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I use Hoppes #9 and Rem-Oil as both are found in just about every gun shop and store. Solvent is for cleaning. Oil is for protecting parts that are in contact with other metal parts. I have never run oil down a barrel.
 

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Balistol and CLP for me. Tried froglube, Hoppes and a few others but always come back to Ballistol. Lucas gun oil works great too.
 
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