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Discussion Starter #1
I'm a DA shooter and love the GP 100 platform.
(OK, I also love the L-frames from S&W but
haven't been shooting them lately.)

So my experience with the GP 100 has been that
from the factory the trigger is just a bit too
stiff to my liking though always smooth.

One one gun I went the whole route and changed
the hammer mainspring and the trigger rebound spring.
Left it that way but I find the trigger just a bit
soft with the 10-pound trigger rebound and the 10 pound
hammer. Noticed I could more easily short stroke


So in the end on my other GP 100s, I leave the trigger
rebound spring alone and just change the hammer
spring to either 10 or 12 pounds. And for me that's
perfect.

No, I do not polish any of the contact points within the
mechanisms.

Anyone else find the hammer mainspring change out
sufficient to the needs of DA shooting?
 

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I'm a DA shooter and love the GP 100 platform.
(OK, I also love the L-frames from S&W but
haven't been shooting them lately.)

So my experience with the GP 100 has been that
from the factory the trigger is just a bit too
stiff to my liking though always smooth.

One one gun I went the whole route and changed
the hammer mainspring and the trigger rebound spring.
Left it that way but I find the trigger just a bit
soft with the 10-pound trigger rebound and the 10 pound
hammer. Noticed I could more easily short stroke


So in the end on my other GP 100s, I leave the trigger
rebound spring alone and just change the hammer
spring to either 10 or 12 pounds. And for me that's
perfect.

No, I do not polish any of the contact points within the
mechanisms.

Anyone else find the hammer mainspring change out
sufficient to the needs of DA shooting?
I changed both the hammer and trigger springs on my SP101 Spurless DAO to 10/8 respectively. My findings are it allows me to easily readily stage the hammer so I can steady for a split second to obtain a more accurate shot. The lighter trigger spring allows the secondary pull to be seamless.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I changed both the hammer and trigger springs on my SP101 Spurless DAO to 10/8 respectively. My findings are it allows me to easily readily stage the hammer so I can steady for a split second to obtain a more accurate shot. The lighter trigger spring allows the secondary pull to be seamless.
Don't have an SP101 but when I did, I found the trigger
to be horrendously heavy; ditto with the Smith J-frames.
So I might follow your example on changing both springs.

However, as a DA shooter, I never, never, never, never
stage the trigger; it's pull all the way through and let
the bullet fly. Some experts in the revolver world, and
I am not one of them, say staging doesn't really help
in making a perfect shot.
 

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I went with 10# trigger and 10# hammer spring and did a light polish and a really good clean. I found I hated the 10# trigger return spring and while it took a while my wife managed to have a reset issue once with the lighter trigger return.

Even before she had the issue with it not resetting I found it way to slow and mushy with the 10# trigger return.

I also shoot almost entirely in DA and found the stock Trigger return spring and the 10# hammer spring gives me the smoothest and most accurate arrangement for me.

Probably near 1000 rounds and have never had a light strike. I can regularly shoot 2- 2.5 inches at 8 yds unsupported in DA.
 

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Don't have an SP101 but when I did, I found the trigger
to be horrendously heavy; ditto with the Smith J-frames.
So I might follow your example on changing both springs.

However, as a DA shooter, I never, never, never, never
stage the trigger; it's pull all the way through and let
the bullet fly. Some experts in the revolver world, and
I am not one of them, say staging doesn't really help
in making a perfect shot
.
Well...if I can take a split second to steady a short barrel gun that's going to be advantageous to my accuracy. I liken staging to cocking a DA and firing. That always helped to improve my accuracy with my Security Six when I was using it for hunting duty.
 

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I installed a 10# hammer and 8# trigger and did a little polishing and what a wonderful difference.
 

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I did a complete deburring and smoothing on my GP. Still using all stock springs, and it's very smooth and reasonably light for a working gun. I don't feel any need to lighten springs on it at this time.

In general, I will always go for smoothing before lightening springs.
 

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On my SP101, I smoothed the rough edges on the hammer strut, installed a 10# main spring and left the trigger spring factory. DA trigger pull went from heavy and gritty to smooth but not too light. Love it.
 

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On my GP100 I went one step lighter on both trigger return and hammer springs (Wolff). I also shimmed the hammer which really helped the initial resistance in double action. The trigger is reasonable now. I can’t measure DA, but SA pull is 3.25 according to my Timney gauge. Oh yea, lots of dry-fire with snap caps when it was new to smooth things out.
 

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I installed a 10# mainspring, hammer & hammer dog shims. smoothed and polished edges of mainspring strut. I left the trigger return spring alone and polished the hammer where it mates with the shims using Mothers mag polish. I couldn't ask for a smoother, more reliable trigger pull. I never found a need to change the mainspring on either of my GP100s although I installed hammer/hammer dog shims on both.
 

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I think it depends on the gun. I do a thorough smoothing and polishing/shim job on all my guns first. Then I look at springs if I am still not happy with it. On my GP100, I think I added a lighter trigger return spring and mainspring. On my brothers GP100 I put in a lighter mainspring, but it did not really need it. He just wanted an even lighter DA trigger. On my SP101s I had to replace both. I think the smaller frame of the SP101 just does not have the geometry that is advantageous for a light trigger unless it is really optimized, by hand. Ruger cannot spend that much time on them and still make and money.
 

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I went with the 8 lb trigger return spring and the 10 lb hammer spring, installed hammer shims and it's the best Ruger action that I have ever experienced. My revolver is strictly a range gun so I am comfortable with the use of reduced power springs.
 

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Well...if I can take a split second to steady a short barrel gun that's going to be advantageous to my accuracy. I liken staging to cocking a DA and firing. That always helped to improve my accuracy with my Security Six when I was using it for hunting duty.
I guess it depends on how you use a given firearm. If you are only using a firearm for hunting or target shooting, I see no issue with this, though I would think it would be even better and easier to use a SAO or SA/DA and cock the hammer with your thumb instead of your trigger finger.

If you are using said firearm for defense, my opinion is that this is a bad habit that may follow you into a bad situation. I also deplore the guys on youtube comparing resets on pistols by firing, slowly releasing the trigger and then firing again. My habit is that a trigger pull is one smooth motion. If a second shot is called for, release the trigger and repeat.
 

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I guess it depends on how you use a given firearm. If you are only using a firearm for hunting or target shooting, I see no issue with this, though I would think it would be even better and easier to use a SAO or SA/DA and cock the hammer with your thumb instead of your trigger finger.

If you are using said firearm for defense, my opinion is that this is a bad habit that may follow you into a bad situation. I also deplore the guys on youtube comparing resets on pistols by firing, slowly releasing the trigger and then firing again. My habit is that a trigger pull is one smooth motion. If a second shot is called for, release the trigger and repeat.
Good point. I hope I never have to find out.
 

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Triggers are very personal. I like light trigger pulls, but more importantly, I like consistant, reliable ignition. I use my GP100 in ICORE competition (no. I'm not good, but it's fun) where misfires are agrivating, but not deadly. I took the gun apart and cleaned and polished all the internal parts and tryed out different spring combinations and I have found that the 8# trigger spring and the 12# hammer spring gives me and 8# trigger pull without misfires. The 10# hammer spring gave me a 7 3/4# trigger, but too many misfires.
 
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