Ruger Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Picked up a burnt bronze model a few months ago and finally got a chance to go to the range. The night before while getting my stuff together, I cocked the hammer and eased it down a few times then it locked up with the hammer half way back and the cylinder would not rotate. Tried to get the cylinder off by opening the gate but it wouldn't drop out being held in by the firing pin.I managed to get it out by pushing the firing pin back with a cleaning rod. The firing pin wouldn't bounce back into the recoil plate by itself via its spring. I thought the spring was broken or it was loaded with some kind of debris. Called Ruger customer service and long story short I asked for and got a new spring and bushing. I kept putting good ole Liquid Wrench in the pin hole and through the bushing and kept pushing the pin back and forth to work the oil into the pins recess. With the cylinder out I dry fired it about 50 times pushing the pin back manually each time and then the pin started to spring back on its own. After about another 25 dry fires it now functions as it should. I've seen on other forums of this happening in other Wranglers. Anyone else here experience this?
 

·
Ruger Aficionado
Joined
·
1,101 Posts
I think there are a few stiffness and sticky problems from the paint on coating. Some have cylinders that drag until you use them enough to wear off the finish. Same with the loading gate, the firing pin, trigger, cylinder pin ...

I have a few ... they can be quirky, but still worth every penny when you get them broke in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
I think there are a few stiffness and sticky problems from the paint on coating. Some have cylinders that drag until you use them enough to wear off the finish. Same with the loading gate, the firing pin, trigger, cylinder pin ...

I have a few ... they can be quirky, but still worth every penny when you get them broke in.
Yep, patience and the break in, I now totally enjoy this gun. Expect stiffness to go away with use and cleaning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Evening, just joined the forum.
My issue is with my new Ruger Wrangler.
The first several hundred rounds thru her were just fine with only slight amount of drag sometimes with a loaded cylinder.
But, now when loaded the drag gets so severe the cylinder gets bound up tight.
I have thoroughly cleaned the cylinder paying attention to the rim recess and the recoil shield. Unloaded the cylinder spins freely and no freeplay is evident. I did notice some wear on the area around the firing pin and also on the loading gate extension where the pivot pin goes into the frame.

And speaking of the loading gate, it remains very stiff to open despite lots of opening and closing it to try to loosen it up.

Just curious, does anybody have these same issues issues?

Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
Evening, just joined the forum.
My issue is with my new Ruger Wrangler.
The first several hundred rounds thru her were just fine with only slight amount of drag sometimes with a loaded cylinder.
But, now when loaded the drag gets so severe the cylinder gets bound up tight.
I have thoroughly cleaned the cylinder paying attention to the rim recess and the recoil shield. Unloaded the cylinder spins freely and no freeplay is evident. I did notice some wear on the area around the firing pin and also on the loading gate extension where the pivot pin goes into the frame.

And speaking of the loading gate, it remains very stiff to open despite lots of opening and closing it to try to loosen it up.

Just curious, does anybody have these same issues issues?

Thank you!
Give your chambers a good scrubbing, I'd guess there is enough powder build up that the rounds aren't seating all the way and hence dragging on the recoil shield. hth
Best,
Rob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
My Wrangler had a loading gate so stiff my 10yo could barely open it. I left it in the open position overnight. That made a noticeable difference, but it was still quite a bit harder to operate than two single sixes I own. So I then disassembled it, bent the gate spring a bit, works great now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Evening, Thanks for the replys.
Well, I had written that I had issues with my cylinder binding while loaded.
I had mentioned that the cylinder was thoroughly clean as were the rim recesses.
After posting here I tried an experiment.
I removed the cylinder and tried 7 different types and brands of .22lr ammo
paying attention to rim heads protruding beyond the rim cut out.
The results were very interesting.
1. 2 brands slipped right in (mag tech and win. wildcats)
2. CCI mini mags HP and solids needed only a gentle push to seat properly.
3. Win Premium also needed just a touch for it to seat.
4. Rem H.P. needed a firm shove to seat but they did seat.
5. Win. H.P. were so gritty feeling and required incredible force to seat.
6. Rem Thunderbolts were so fickle, half seated immediately and the other half refused to seat at all.
No one chamber stood out as problematic.


The baffling results prompted me to again examine the individual chambers. With proper light the chamber walls were absolutely polished smooth and not one tool mark was evident.

My take away is that there are extreme variations in .22lr ammo (obviously LOL.)
The other is that perhaps I have it has slightly undersized chambers and a call to Ruger is in order.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,189 Posts
The cylinders in my Wrangler are tight. Some brands of .22 ammo, such as Thunderduds, are harder to chamber.

Everything on my Wrangler was a bit tight and stiff when it was new, but it has smoothed out a lot with use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Yes - I have a post in here about it. My pin would go in if I tried to cock the hammer - so it was not that big of a deal. But after shooting it today for the first time - it fixed itself. It has not happened since. Even after cleaning at home and dry firing - no more sticking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
My son and I have both shot about 60 rounds through our Wranglers, you can tell it is going to need a lot more to break in and that is fine with us :)I have noticed that after unloading/loading when the gate is closed you need to rotate the cylinder to it's next stop. Otherwise the hammer locks up, but if you rotate the cylinder to it's stop everything functions smoothly. Next week I am putting in a set of Wolff springs and doing a tu-tone birdshead conversion as well. My son's wrangler will stay stock for the moment.
 

·
Retired Moderator & Gunsmith
Joined
·
16,162 Posts
ditto1958, This subject was covered in a recent thread: https://rugerforum.net/ruger-single-action/381975-wrangler-chambering-issues.html

Here's a snip of my post on the subject;

My first trip to a range with my new Wrangler was a disaster. I had a new box of bulk Remington Golden bullets and none of them would fully chamber in my Wrangler. Is it the gun or the ammo? When I got home from the wasted trip, I found the same Remington ammo would not chamber in my Single-Sixes or my S&W Mod 18. I measured the bullets and found they were about .226~.227" in diameter and my chambers pin gauged at .225", which is uniform in all my 22 LR revolvers. I found CCI Mini-Mags would plunk right in the chambers as would a brick of Federal bulk 22s.

Sometime ago, I had the same problem with Winchester bulk pack 22s in my 22 LR GP100 so I made a sizing die where you push a cartridge in the die against a work bench then tap it back out with a round rod. I tried the die with the Remington ammo and it worked just fine.... all 550 of them. On my second range trip, I took the sized Remington ammo and a couple hundred Federal bulk pack 22s. All of them fired just fine. No problems loading or unloading the Wrangler, no duds, and all were reasonably accurate.

It seems some of the ammo manufactures are producing poor quality ammo with fat bullets. So before you get disgusted with your Wrangler, Single-Six, or other revolvers, break out your digital caliper and measure bullet diameters on a sample batch. Anything over .225" just isn't going to fit in the chambers. These same fat bullets will chamber in my Henry H001T Rifle or my Ruger SR-22 because the chambers are a bit generous.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
It is NOT an ammo issue,,, Its been happening to a lot of guys after dry firing,,, Its addressed in this video. The Ruger manual is NOT correct saying the Wrangler can be dry fired.. .. bob

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,061 Posts
I expect both Iowegian and beebee are correct but describing two different problems.

Obviously oversize ammunition that won't chamber isn't the gun's fault and some, particularly bulk box ammo, isn't always made to SAAMI specs.

As to the dry fire issue, Ruger is probably correct that most Wranglers can be safely dry fired because their firing pins are short enough not to hit the chamber edges. Apparently some are long enough to cause this problem.
 

·
Retired Moderator & Gunsmith
Joined
·
16,162 Posts
beebee, Obviously you know more about Wranglers than the company that made them. Also, you might want to read previous posts before you jump in with know-it-all remarks. If cartridges won't chamber in any revolver, is it the revolver's fault? I think not. The ammo issue is not related to the OP's firing pin issue, my post was just a response to ditto 1958's post. Please read before posting!

Funny …. if dry firing "fixed" the OP's Wrangler, what makes you think you should not dry fire?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
beebee, Obviously you know more about Wranglers than the company that made them. Also, you might want to read previous posts before you jump in with know-it-all remarks. If cartridges won't chamber in any revolver, is it the revolver's fault? I think not. The ammo issue is not related to the OP's firing pin issue, my post was just a response to ditto 1958's post. Please read before posting!

Funny …. if dry firing "fixed" the OP's Wrangler, what makes you think you should not dry fire?
No need to get nasty.. I was just trying to help... There are wrangler owners out there that may be dry firing their guns, and it DOES cause damage.. I have dry fired mine only a few times.. maybe 8 trigger pulls total, and I can already see sizable divots on the edges of the bores.. i have run a total of 3 rounds through the gun, it has not been to the range yet, so that cyl should look NEW, not have firing pin marks in the cyl.. Its not a big deal, i know better than to ever dry fire it even one time ever again, and no I don't know as much about the gun as ruger does.. that being said, they DID release the gun and the attending operators manual that stated proud and loud that it was OK to dry fire this pistol.. My experience and the experience of others has shown this information to be in error... Just trying to help other Wrangler owners out before they destroy the cylinders in their guns .. Is that REALLY that awful a thing to do?... bob
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
107 Posts
Mine is showing the beginnings of the divots in it as well. No more dry fire without protection for me! Thanx for posting this, I forwarded it to a couple of other fora I frequent.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top