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Had a strange thing happen at the range today. I took my son-in-law and grandson along with several guns. I'm still recovering from surgery so I couldn't shoot but I did keep an eye on the S-I=L and grandson. When I broke out my Wrangler, my S-I-L did OK but when my grandson shot it, bullets were putting oval holes in the paper target at 15 yards. Just for grins, I moved the target out to 25 yards and my grandson's target had keyholes and a scattered group. My SIL law's group was decent and all holes were nice and round. Same gun, same ammo, the only thing that changed was the shooter????

When I got home, I found the problem. Seems my grandson was cocking the hammer slowly, just as he had been taught whereas my S-I-L cocked the hammer like it was some sort of speed contest. Turned out, if you slow cock the hammer, the sear cocks well before the cylinder latches. This carry up timing issue means the gun will fire with the cylinder mis-aligned with the bore .... not good! This is just the opposite of most other Ruger SAs where you can hear/feel the cylinder latch snap in just before you hear/feel the sear click. When the hammer was cocked with some gusto, the cylinder would spin a bit more and would lock up just fine, however I'm a "slow cocker" so I want timing to be right.

Naturally, I had to take the Wrangler apart to see what was going on. I think I isolated the problem. The stud on the pawl fits very loose in the hammer's hole. Maybe the stud is too small, the hole is too large, or it might be the pawl is a few thousandths too short???? I'll call Ruger Monday and see what they say.

Meantime, if any of you Wrangler owners have a few minutes, how about doing a simple test and report the findings? With the gun totally empty, very slowly cock the hammer and stop pulling the hammer back as soon as you hear the sear click in. See if the cylinder latches by rotating the cylinder clockwise. If the cylinder is already latched, you don't have a problem however, if it moves a little then clicks in, you have the same timing problem. At this point, I don't know if this is a common problem with Wranglers or an isolated case but for sure, my Wrangler definitely has a timing problem. BTW, I tested 4 of my Single-Sixes and all passed with flying colors. The cylinders all latched just before the sear holds the hammer cocked.
 

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This was interesting. I don't own a Wrangler, but I had to do the same test on my Single-six. For what it's worth, it passed the test.
 

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Like to hear what Ruger tells you. On mine I cock hammer, at 1 click cylinder not locked, can rotate cylinder CW a bit, continue to cock hammer to 2nd click and it locks up. Is this not normal?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rocdoc, Ideally, the cylinder should latch first then with just a little more hammer movement, the sear should click in and hold the hammer cocked. Mine is backwards where the hammer sear clicks in first, then the cylinder latch. If timing was perfect, which it never is in a Ruger, the cylinder latch and sear would both click in at the same time. What you don't want is late carry up because of the issue I noted above.
 
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It's not right ,,,,but not unheard of. I have that issue on a 44mag VAQ. I have one by one changed out the hammer, trigger,the hand/lifter and cyl. latch. thinking one would fix it . Nope..
Momentum carries that big ole cylinder and I have to cock VERY slowly to induce it, but I don't like it .
Interested in what they have to say.
 

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Iowegan ... I have had issues with "key holeing" with my Wrangler and I am also a slow cocker. I attributed it to leading in my barrel right at the beginning of the barrel. If the cylinder is misaligned that would contribute to my leading issue?
 
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My cylinder latches just before the sear clicks into place. I have noticed that slow cocking causes issues when shooting WMRs, if you slow cock it is like a half cock but it stops when the cylinder clicks into place and the hammer does not reach the sear then you must release the hammer slightly and then finish cocking. But that is with an "improper" cylinder in place. Quickly cocking does not exhibit this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
VincentG58, Wranglers are not intended for 22 Mag cylinders. In fact, Single-Six cylinders time different than Wrangler cylinders so they are not intended to be compatible.

rmichael63, Yes, that's exactly what my Wrangler does. If the cylinder isn't latched in place when the gun fires, the alignment between the cylinder throat and bore is off and will cause bore leading. The damaged bullets may also keyhole.

I haven't been able to reach a Ruger tech yet but it looks like I have a "short pawl". Customer Services does not know of any similar issues that affect all Wranglers.
 
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Had a strange thing happen at the range today. I took my son-in-law and grandson along with several guns. I'm still recovering from surgery so I couldn't shoot but I did keep an eye on the S-I=L and grandson. When I broke out my Wrangler, my S-I-L did OK but when my grandson shot it, bullets were putting oval holes in the paper target at 15 yards. Just for grins, I moved the target out to 25 yards and my grandson's target had keyholes and a scattered group. My SIL law's group was decent and all holes were nice and round. Same gun, same ammo, the only thing that changed was the shooter????

When I got home, I found the problem. Seems my grandson was cocking the hammer slowly, just as he had been taught whereas my S-I-L cocked the hammer like it was some sort of speed contest. Turned out, if you slow cock the hammer, the sear cocks well before the cylinder latches. This carry up timing issue means the gun will fire with the cylinder mis-aligned with the bore .... not good! This is just the opposite of most other Ruger SAs where you can hear/feel the cylinder latch snap in just before you hear/feel the sear click. When the hammer was cocked with some gusto, the cylinder would spin a bit more and would lock up just fine, however I'm a "slow cocker" so I want timing to be right.

Naturally, I had to take the Wrangler apart to see what was going on. I think I isolated the problem. The stud on the pawl fits very loose in the hammer's hole. Maybe the stud is too small, the hole is too large, or it might be the pawl is a few thousandths too short???? I'll call Ruger Monday and see what they say.

Meantime, if any of you Wrangler owners have a few minutes, how about doing a simple test and report the findings? With the gun totally empty, very slowly cock the hammer and stop pulling the hammer back as soon as you hear the sear click in. See if the cylinder latches by rotating the cylinder clockwise. If the cylinder is already latched, you don't have a problem however, if it moves a little then clicks in, you have the same timing problem. At this point, I don't know if this is a common problem with Wranglers or an isolated case but for sure, my Wrangler definitely has a timing problem. BTW, I tested 4 of my Single-Sixes and all passed with flying colors. The cylinders all latched just before the sear holds the hammer cocked.
So, out of curiosity, got out my 70's era single-six, first click of the hammer, the cylinder was not locked, slight rotation CW locked it up, then got out my Vaquero(original model in 45 colt) same story. Cylinder is only locked at full pull of hammer.
 

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Iowegan I just tried mine. On 4 cylinders the sear and cylinder latch lock simultaneously. On 2 cylinders the cylinder latch clicks first. If I continue to pull the hammer back just a tiny bit the sear clicks in place. I have never noticed it while shooting and it isn't a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I guess I didn't explain my situation very well. In my Wrangler, if I slow cock it, the cylinder never latches, even with the hammer pulled all the way back. If I pull the hammer briskly, there's enough rotational force to move the cylinder far enough to latch.
 

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Thanks for the clarification. I didn't understand that on a slow cock, the cylinder never locks up. That would be bad.
 

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Iowegan thanks for the heads up. I just checked my two and they are just fine. In time I'll slow cock my other Rugers and see how they do.
 

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Took mine for a spin. All 6 chambers lock the cylinder in place at the same moment the sear clicks. Guess I got a good one, even if it is the wrong color.
 

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Well, I found most of the problem .... seems a small blob of Cerakote ended up at the crotch of the hammer .... just thick enough to prevent the hammer from moving fully to the rear. After I removed the small blob with a needle file, I still have late carry-up but at least the cylinder now latches when I slowly pull the hammer all the way back.

This is the second issue I've had from the Cerakote finish. The first was a blob on the face of the loading gate that rubbed on the case heads. Once I removed the blob, there was no cylinder drag.
 

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I checked mine and if I do a slow pull the latch clicked about a third of the way to the next lock up point. When I continue pulling the hammer the cylinder and sear lock at the same time on all six. Must have a good one.


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