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Your method to remove carbon buildup

7K views 36 replies 30 participants last post by  PaddyD55 
#1 · (Edited)
I have always struggled with removing the carbon that gets built up in the bore, especially since I'm not really a believer in using bronze brushes. They are reserved for when things get really nasty along with my recently acquired JB bore past, which HOLY SMOKES will that stuff freshen up a bore! It works VERY good on just about anything but I understand its slightly abrasive so thats why it will not get routine use.

I am looking for a cleaner/solvent to use for regular cleaning after each use, that is especially tough on carbon fouling. I just want to know what you have had luck with removing this fouling.

Things I have tried with no luck:
Gunzilla
BreakFree CLP
Gunslick Ultra-Kleen
Kroil
Mobil 1 0W-40
Hoppes #9 (regular formula)
probably others im forgetting

BreakFree seems to do the most, but only after I use about a half a pack of patches because they just keep coming out dirty every...single...time....which is very annoying but I mean at least something is happening. I've tried letting just about every single one of these sit and soak in for a while too and it makes no difference.
 
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#3 ·
Well first of all, lubricants are not cleaners. So that should take care of most of the items on your list.

Secondly, bronze brushes are fine and have been used for a long time. Removing stuck on stuff like carbon is what they're generally used for.

Carbon is just about the hardest material known to man, think pre-diamond.

Since I use FrogLube I'm not bothered with it but I think soaking something in Hoppes per the label is quite effective.

But no matter what you choose, RTFM.
 
#5 ·
Well first of all, lubricants are not cleaners. So that should take care of most of the items on your list.

Secondly, bronze brushes are fine and have been used for a long time. Removing stuck on stuff like carbon is what they're generally used for.
Every one of those oils I listed is either claimed by the manufacturer or other gun owners to be an effective carbon remover.

Also, I've seen many conflicting debates on bronze brushes. I determined that it all comes down to how picky you are about your bore, and a few other factors. I decided that I wouldnt totally rule it out, but just use it for the tough stuff. If I can get the same result with solvents that I can a brush, I'll take the solvents.

Avoiding using it is just a personal preference.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Go on Amazon and look up Smith and Wesson bore gel...the small 4 oz squeeze bottle...not the aerosol can (too much waste)....it's not expensive and can be left in a bore for a period without harming things...you might be surprised how it works.

I seldom see or hear of anyone using it...I found out about it on a milsurp forum where folks had sewer pipe barrels from all the decades of bad cleaning and junk ammo...It took a bit of time but I used it in a Mosin barrel that was absolute junk...I did use a brush on it during the early stages of cleaning but it was pretty amazing...might be worth a try.
 

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#6 ·
My opinion:

JB Bore Paste has a gentle abrasive which will, IMHO, wear a barrel more than any bronze brush over time.

I will run a patch soaked in Hoppe's #9 and let it sit. Then will repeat. Next, a bronze brush or nylon brush soaked in Hoppe's #9. Then a patch soaked in Hoppe's. I finish by using a jag with dry patches. What I find is the jag will do a great job of "squeegeeing" all the residue out quite well and in only two or three patches. I finish with a patch with a few drops of oil and followed by a final pass with the jag.
 
#9 ·
The best way to prevent carbon build up is do not oil the bore unless you are planning to put the gun in storage for several months. Yes, a bronze brush does make the task easier. Remington 40x bore cleaner does do a good job. To show you how little crap I get in my barrels a half pint of Remington 40x has lasted me well over 5 years. I do a lot of shooting. You do need to oil your barrel after using Remington 40x.

I do not use the slotted patch pusher. The slotted patch pusher is very ineffective. I use a long jag to push the patch through the barrel. I get the patches that are made of scrap material - about the size of a shirt pocket. I have no problem pushing a large patch through the a 9mm/30cal bore. When I am done the bore is shiny clean. Shine a bore light right up the center you will be seeing spots.
 
#13 ·
I don't always use a bore brush, but when I do it is bronze or brass. Really is the most effective way to clean the bore with any brand of cleaner.

If your patches are never coming out clean, you need more brushing.
 
#16 ·
What is carbon buildup? I clean my guns after every range trip. They always return to a bright and shiny bore.
 
#18 ·
I feel I may have underemphasized my use of the bronze brush. I'll maybe use it every couple trips to the range, but not every single time. I might use the nylon brush every single time, but the JB might not even get used on the same firearm twice. (as long as its not necessary)
 
#20 ·
Carb cleaner will clear off the hard stuff. I used it on M-16's and it was a God send. Just make sure it as good brand, and it should work.
It dissolved stuff right before my eyes the first time that I used it. I was hooked after that.

View attachment 20355
Funny, I actually used carb cleaner to get off all the Militec I had put on my SP and it seemed to have gotten a small amount of crap out while I was doing it too lol. not expensive either, $4 that I happened to find at the convenience store 2 sec away
 
#22 ·
Another FrogLube user here. Can't tell you how nice it is to clean our pistols with nothing more than a microfiber towel and some dry patches for the bores. Hoppes #9 cleaner should work good. But I can't tell you how nice it is to be able to clean up after shooting without suffering from headaches because of the smell. Now when I clean our pistols, it's like I'm chewing Doublemint gum.

L8R,
Matt
 
#23 ·
Another FrogLube user here. Can't tell you how nice it is to clean our pistols with nothing more than a microfiber towel and some dry patches for the bores.
Yep. Another FL user here too. Cleaning is just 1000 times easier with a froglubed pistol or .22 rifle.

I do draw the line with my centerfire hunting rifles and old pump shotguns. Seems like it would be such a pain to heat them up and apply a paste.
 
#26 ·
I have always struggled with removing the carbon that gets built up in the bore, especially since I'm not really a believer in using bronze brushes.

I am looking for a cleaner/solvent to use for regular cleaning after each use, that is especially tough on carbon fouling. I just want to know what you have had luck with removing this fouling.
Harold,

I concur on avoiding brushes whenever possible and suggest that you give Sharp Shoot R Wipe-Out Brushless Foaming Bore Cleaning Solvent a test drive. I've been completely brushless for years now, and find this solvent to be as effective as any other in my experience. Mr. Paul's data sheet on Wipe-out is also a well done document.

Wipe-out is effective in cleaning some crummy and heavily carbonized AR bolts and carriers after a day of hammering at the range simply by introducing the foam into a zip-lock bag into which I drop the disassembled bolt and carrier. After allowing the parts to soak for awhile, I simply pour off the liquid sludge and spray the parts down with odorless mineral spirits and give them a quick coating with an effective protectant to prevent flash corrosion.
 
#31 ·
I think you need a jag, not more or different care products.

The best solvent for the purpose of removing carbon is Hoppe's #9 or an equivalent. If this isn't getting the carbon out of your barrel, I respectfully suggest you are doing something wrong. Frog Lube and other products are great, but not necessary for the basics of cleaning.

1. swab bore with Hoppe's and let it sit for a while. Go make a cup of coffee.
2. swab bore once more.
3. slather a bronze brush with Hoppe's and run it through the bore 6 to 12 times or so.
4. swab bore with Hoppe's once more.
5. use a JAG with clean patches to finish swabbing out the bore. Patches should come out clean after 5 or 6. If not, repeat steps 1-5.
6. run a clean patch with a drop of oil on it through the bore.
7. the bore should be bright and shiny. If it turns dull gray after sitting for a bit, there may be leading in the barrel.

Without a jag, this procedure would take me 40-50 patches before they might come out clean. :eek:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/530422/dewey-pistol-cleaning-jag-38-357-and-9mm-brass
 
#34 · (Edited)
Hoppe's Bench Rest for overnight bore and chamber soaking, to get carbon, copper and lead out.

Eezox for general cleaning and protecting from rust (the best IMO, rifle bores and the rest of the metal I treated before I deployed in 2007 that are still in my parent's basement, are still rust free.)

Kroil can also be left in bores for carbon but I find it to be an awesome gun lube that doesn't attract more carbon. A couple drops here and there on rifles and handguns, been using it for over 10 years. Industrial companies trust it to lubricate million dollar machines so it's good enough for me:)

I'm not OCD about cleaning though, except for carry and HD guns.

I'm not the guy who has to get every speck of carbon off my guns, I'm not in the Infantry anymore and my guns won't get kicked back from the armory for being dirty..........if I want to give my Vaquero a quick wipy wipy and punch the chambers and bore once with Eezox, and then put it away with some carbon in the bore, ready to shoot again next week, I think I'll be OK and so will the gun:)

MANY more guns are damaged by overzealous cleaning than by just maintaining them well and protecting them. Please don't put bronze brushes on a rod and scrub your bores until your arms go numb, you're not doing the bore or yourself any favors. I have rifles that will shoot quarter sized groups at 100 and they've only seen nylon brushes and Hoppe's Bench Rest. If there's a little copper or carbon in the bore I'll still sleep at night.
 
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