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I have used 3 in 1 oil for my entire gun / shooting life and I an almost 76 years old.
Never had a problem with rust, (I live in south Florida) or freezing up when I grew up in upstate New York.
Shotguns, rifles, pistols and revolvers all get 3 in 1 oil. I don't like to over think or over engineer anything.
For me simple is better.
 
Thank you all for all the great information! I now have the information i need to make an educated decision. I will keep it to myself as not to offend anyone;). Schrodingers Cat!!!
I don't know if you'll offend anyone. Normally the question is offensive but you kind of skirted around that. Let us know and keep us posted on your findings and opinions.
 
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Red 3in1 has castrol oil that stiffens. Blue 3in1 is 20w oil. I never use red 3in1 and use blue in the past. Now a days there's much better choices. I like synthetic lubes, they don't stiffens.
 
When I was a kid back in the 80’s, all I had to use for my 1982 Rem 1100 shotgun was 3-1 oil and wd-40. I shot the crap out of it and cleaned it after every use. Still shoots like new today. However, lube technology and metallurgy are so much more advanced these days, that I would not use those products on my firearms. I subscribe to Iowegan’s advice on this topic.
 
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Twice a year, I pull all my guns out of the safe and give them a "once over" cleaning. I use several drops of oil on the exterior and I apply an oily patch to the bore. With the number of firearms I own, it takes a couple years to go through a small 2 1/4 oz bottle of Hoppe's #9 Gun Oil. In the overall scheme of things, that's pretty cheap insurance for rust prevention .... a few cents per gun per year. A 2 1/4 oz bottle is 3 bucks, so if you can't afford a couple bucks a year, maybe you need a new hobby. What I DON'T do is hose a bunch of oil in the action. Even Hoppe's will evaporate and leave a gummy mess if you apply too much.

I have not found a single firearm that has more than 25 lbs of tension on mating parts. So, lubrication is not an issue like a car engine or farm machinery. If you use excess oil, it will puddle, where it will dry up and cause problems. All you need is a small drop per part .... just enough where you can spread the oil on the part and it still feels dry. This will provide rust prevention, which is the primary goal for gun oil.
 
This post made me feel guilty because as I was reading it I looked at my desk and the 3in1 was casually sitting there right next to the Hoppe’s and the Militec and the smelly ones, Clenzoil and Kroil. I don’t know what it’s doing there! I do use it on locks and hinges and as a honing oil but not on guns…
 
This post made me feel guilty because as I was reading it I looked at my desk and the 3in1 was casually sitting there right next to the Hoppe’s and the Militec and the smelly ones, Clenzoil and Kroil. I don’t know what it’s doing there! I do use it on locks and hinges and as a honing oil but not on guns…
I like it for honing oil still too. I like the dripper top
 
I can remember the can of 3-in-1 sitting on a small shelf by our furnace growing up. The fan had small copper tubes with spring loaded caps on the bearings and my Dad put a few drops in them each fall.
 
i know WD-40 is the worst , after that i never considered 3 in 1 , WD-40 is like "what can i use to rust my firearm over night the best" , i started using CLP and have not had any issues since , also Hoppes #9 for bore cleaning
Way back their was a local gunsmith, now deceased. He swore by WD-40. Many days we would spray our shotguns down after duck hunting. Most folks say that is crazy now. But it surely did work. Never had an issue with rust.
I also use it for tools. When they get wet from being in the rain, I spray of WD-40 works very well to prevent rust.
 
Sometimes I have to use hand tools (pliers, wrenches, sockets, files, etc) in the rain, at home or at work.
These then get sprayed down with WD40 immediately after I am done using them.
Later, before being put away, they get dried up and lubed, often with 3in1.

But again, I don’t use either of them on firearms.
That said, if I could only have one product for firearm care?
I’d most likely go with Ballistol………..or Hoppes.
 
The "WD" in WD-40 stands for "water displacement" and it does a great job of displacing water. It is excellent for spraying down a gun's exterior, steel tools, or any metal subject to rust from water exposure. WD-40 is not a good product for the inside action parts because it turns gooey and instead of reducing friction, it does just the opposite and increases friction as it ages. It is especially bad in cold weather because it gells at about 50 deg F.

3-in1 oil is not good for water displacement. It also turns gooey and increases friction as it ages, and so does Hoppe's #9 oil. That's why you should use it very sparingly.
 
Twice a year, I pull all my guns out of the safe and give them a "once over" cleaning. I use several drops of oil on the exterior and I apply an oily patch to the bore. With the number of firearms I own, it takes a couple years to go through a small 2 1/4 oz bottle of Hoppe's #9 Gun Oil. In the overall scheme of things, that's pretty cheap insurance for rust prevention .... a few cents per gun per year. A 2 1/4 oz bottle is 3 bucks, so if you can't afford a couple bucks a year, maybe you need a new hobby. What I DON'T do is hose a bunch of oil in the action. Even Hoppe's will evaporate and leave a gummy mess if you apply too much.

I have not found a single firearm that has more than 25 lbs of tension on mating parts. So, lubrication is not an issue like a car engine or farm machinery. If you use excess oil, it will puddle, where it will dry up and cause problems. All you need is a small drop per part .... just enough where you can spread the oil on the part and it still feels dry. This will provide rust prevention, which is the primary goal for gun oil.
I will second that and add a little short story.

I took a coworker to the range one day and he brought his Kahr that had not been shot for something like 1 1/2 - 2 years. His father in law was holding on to it at the time. We could not get 2 rounds in a row to chamber without pushing on the back of the slide. He was ready to get rid of it, so I asked if I could borrow it to see if I could figure it out. The gun had been over oiled what must have been 4-5 times without removing the old residue. Not sure if it was dried oil or grease, but it took me 45 minutes to get the rails clean. After cleaning and applying the correct amount of gun oil (Hoppes if you care), it ran like a new gun. Cleaned it a final time and gave it back to him. Amazing what it does for a firearm to just clean and lubricate regularly.

I have neither the experience or the number of firearms that many of you do, but with 3 rifles and 8 pistols, I can get behind on shooting all of them regularly. Like Iowegan, I pick a day every 6 months to line them all up, clean off any residual dirt, dust or dried oil, and reapply either Hoppes or Balistol. It doesn't take very long to do when half of them have either not been shot or shot sparingly, and it's worth the time and effort to know thy will work when I want them to.

I have bought 4 cleaning kits in my life, regularly shooting for the past 9 years. I have spilled more gun oil than I have put on guns and I still have some in each of those kits.
 
Forgive me father for I have sinned.

I goeth to the River and sit in the holy water, waiting for many a fowl.

My shotgun soaketh the snow and rain into many forbidden places. I spent much gold on my labeled red staff.

I removeth the holy fore grip and liberally anoint it’s soul, with synthetic virgin oil obtained from the mountain.

I returnith the next fortnight and am destined to repeat my transgressions.

Image
 
i use 4-in-one oil because a master machinist told me it was better than to the old style 3 in 1...

see, i can do it too...

now let's argue over the color of plastic grips....
.
 
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