Yours isn't that bad, is about what my Vaquero has, wouldn't worry. I mostly shoot 38 SPL +P loads in it now.
If it gets as bad as my single six was, then I would be worried.

Single Six

Vaquero

 

If it gets as bad as my single six was, then I would be worried.

I gotta' ask, how many rounds have you put through your Single Six? I picked up my SS Stainless Convertible in the early 70's, my second handgun ever, and it's easily been through a thousand rounds a year, (some months more than that), with no visible wear at the forcing cone. From time to time I've used a fair amount of .22WMR. Might be the most durable handgun ever made.

 

I'm looking forward to reading the answers to your questions, I'm curious myself.

 

Don't look bad to me.
My GP100 actually has ware on the lands at the forcing cone/barre shank.
I haven't spent one millisecond worrying about it.
YMMV

 

Maybe take a look at the photos here and you will have a gauge of what serious forcing cone erosion looks like before it takes leave.

This is one posted here on the forum a short while ago and I would say it classifies as bad forcing cone erosion.

https://www.rugerforum.net/threads/forcing-cone-erosion-how-bad.256745/#lg=thread-256745&slide=0

forcing cone erosion - Google Search

 

Maybe take a look at the photos here and you will have a gauge of what serious forcing cone erosion looks like before it takes leave.

This is one posted here on the forum a short while ago and I would say it classifies as bad forcing cone erosion.

https://www.rugerforum.net/threads/forcing-cone-erosion-how-bad.256745/#lg=thread-256745&slide=0

forcing cone erosion - Google Search

That was my old post here. The replacement barrel is showing wear progressing again but because I rarely shoot any 357s now, I'm not worried about it but keep an eye on it. I've got another GP100 that's shot 1000s 357 & 38+P and has no visible wear showing in the forcing cone area.

 

Yeah I agree, I think the point at which this GP100 is at is far from concern, but hence my question, when DOES it become a concern? My understanding is, unless there are cracks forming, erosion on the face of the forcing cone can increase the b/c gap and thus reduce velocity, and erosion or damage on the inside of the forcing cone can start to affect accuracy. So maybe when either of these becomes a bother?

Still very curious about my second question. My (somewhat elementary) understanding of metallurgy, this is not absolute but in general Stainless Steel has a higher toughness, but Carbon Steel has higher wear resistance, so I would think maybe Carbon Steel would have better wear resistance to forcing cone erosion. Maybe I'm wrong...

 

It is my understanding that prolonged use of slow burning powders like H110 for full house loads is the underlying cause of cone and top strap erosion.
This seems to be the natural side effect of this use.
Everything wears out with use, some wear out faster with heavier use.

 

In my never-humble opinion, it looks like rough machining of the forcing cone, but maybe...possibly...perhaps...some erosion where it looks smooth. I polished the forcing cone of my GP 100, and it removed some of the similar-appearing marks. So far, so good, but if in the distant future, it might "need" something, I'll probably try the 11 degree forcing cone reamer. I am no gunsmith, and if I'm wrong, IOWEGAN is welcome to straighten me out! 😊

Bit of an update here, I just finished looking at a bunch of photos showing Forcing Cone erosion! It is in a location...the very edge of the cone...and my mental picture has always been the entire area of the forcing cone! I learned something today! All but one of the pictures of GP 100 forcing cones were a lot shorter than mine is. not that I think that is any sort of a problem!

 

It is my understanding that prolonged use of slow burning powders like H110 for full house loads is the underlying cause of cone and top strap erosion.
This seems to be the natural side effect of this use.
Everything wears out with use, some wear out faster with heavier use.

My favorite 357 loads are with H110 and 110-125 gr boolits. Makes them fly sooooo fast...

In my never-humble opinion, it looks more like rough machining of the forcing cone, but maybe...possibly...perhaps...some erosion where it looks smooth. I polished the forcing cone of my GP 100, and it removed some of the similar-appearing marks. So far, so good, but if in the distant future, it might "need" something, I'll probably try the 11 degree forcing cone reamer. I am no gunsmith, and if I'm wrong, IOWEGAN is welcome to straighten me out! 😊

If IOWEGAN has to straighten you out, you might want to hide that forcing cone reamer!!

 

H110 and 44 mag is real magic in my 1873.
Chamber pressure is not excessive, which is needed for toggle link action.
Velocity from that long slow burn is excellent in a 20 inch barrel.

 

Great questions and cool thread.

Will be reading.