It sounds like it would be best to let Ruger take a look. If whatever part or spring failed damaged anything else they can make it right.

 

Is there a clearence of at least .004" between the cylinder face and barrel, at all times?

Any lead buildup on the cylinder face?

Does the base pin move, causing the problem?

Is this when firing or dry firing. If firing, are the primers backing out?

 

Is there a clearence of at least .004" between the cylinder face and barrel, at all times?

Any lead buildup on the cylinder face?

Does the base pin move, causing the problem?

No hang up at the cylinder face. This revolver is out of the box clean.

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Looking at instructions -
To replace cylinder, simply reverse the above procedure. Before replacing base
pin, holding the gun with the barrel pointed away from you and in a safe
direction, rotate the cylinder 1/4 turns in a clockwise direction to ensure that
pawl is correctly positioned on the cylinder ratchet. Finally, close the gate.

Your RUGER VAQUERO® is equipped with a specially designed reverse indexing
cylinder mechanism. This unique device will ease and hasten unloading by
allowing you to reverse rotation of the cylinder (counter-clockwise until it stops)
and automatically align a chamber with the ejector rod and loading gate cutout
in the frame.

This is new info to me. Hope it helps.

 

Not sure if the notch in the pawl is supposed to be there or if a chunk broke off?

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The top of the pawl broke off, exactly the same as mine.

 

Single Six Bisley .22 cal..

 

Different revolver, different part, doesn't tell me much.

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My 44spl Flat Top exhibited the exact same condition just before the pawl broke. Twice.

Sent it back to the factory both times for repair.

 

I called Ruger and they're sending me a new Pawl.

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I'd have to pull out my paperwork to be sure but as I recall there were repairs made to the frame as well as replacement of the pawl. When I spoke to the repair technician about the problem he had indicated that he had seen this problem before and that the frame needed repair in these cases. He further indicated that if it broke again they would most likely replace the whole firearm because the frame would be deemed to be unrepairable.

I would recommend that you very carefully examine the frame where the pawl rides for any irregularities.

 

I'm confident that my issue is the pawl. I'll report back once I've installed the new part.

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Hope a new paw fixes it. Let us know.

I was thinking the info in post 5 , timing of the cylinder would have something to do with it??


My old model SBH had a special loading method to time the cylinder after loading. I didnt follow it, till one day i had a misfire.
The firing pin struck the side of the primer. Luck for me, the round didnt fire, as the cylinder was out of alignment/time.

 

So my issue was indeed a broken pawl. The replacement arrived from Ruger. The broken pawl is at the bottom of this photo. I only had a few 100 hundred rounds through this revolver so it's surprising to me to have this part fail so soon.

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Not normal, of course, but sometimes stuff happens.

 

Looks like a MIM part, which would explain why it broke.

 

Yup!

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Ofgs, MIM haters.

 

Sometimes MIM works. Sometimes it doesn't. (see P365 gen one firing pins)

 

The pawl that broke is cast not MIM.

 

Cast would be worse than MIM.

 

Then you should be happy. The hammers and triggers that Ruger did convert to MIM were cast until the change.

Most of the Ruger lockwork components are cast parts as are the frames. Ruger is famous for precision casting. It's one of the significant differences between Ruger and S&W revolvers.

 

Lathes and mills are cast also. Casting works in certain places. Small and thin isn’t one of them.

 

Call Ruger engineering and let them know....

 

They would know. It’s the Ruger bean counters that are the issue.

 

Interesting. So the stories about Bill Ruger designing revolvers using the lost wax casting technic to manufacture firearms are all BS? The real truth is accountants made him do it?

 

All I know is that it was a relatively new part and it broke. And a part that bears minimal stress.

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Suddenly my New Vaquero (TALO edition, 45 acp, birdshead grip) decided to stop working. When cocking the hammer the cylinder does not rotate and the hammer will not go to full cock. If I remove the cylinder and re-seat the base pin, the hammer cocks normally. The pawl seems to be functioning properly when cocking. Transfer bar appears to to functioning correctly. There's no wear to the cylinder ratchet grooves. I only have a few 100 rounds through this revolver. I haven't broken it down.

Any experience with issue? Should I break it down and look for a broken part or just send it back to Ruger?

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The Cylinder will not rotate with the hammer cocked it needs to be down with the loading gate open