Welcome from Australia mate.
Glad to have you on board, nice folk here and lots of good info.
Have you tried some different ammo?

 

Well, funny story to tell. I have a light weight sporter in a 30-06. Last elk season I had a total miss with out even a dimple in the primer. Re-cocked and fired fine, don't ask about the elk. The primer had an interesting firing pin strike. Had it happen again a few weeks ago. Fired fine when re-cocked. I went to Ruger's site with the Tech Videos and took the whole action apart, not that hard. The firing pin was mis-shaped and almost jagged. I called and have an RMA to send the gun back for new firing pin. No cost except shipping it to them.

This is a 1983 model and I used to work in a gun shop when I bought it. The old guy at the shop used to have the old "You dry fire it, you buy it" motto, so I grew up thinking you could dry fire any gun, so I used to drop the firing pin by holding down the trigger while closing the action. I think this slowly sheared the pin down over the years. I have not had an issue with my other #1's, but it wouldn't surprise me if I do in the future.

Call them and get it taken care of, they won't let you send in just the block, I tried.

Kent

 

so I

used to drop the firing pin by holding down the trigger while closing the action.

I'm guilty of doing this it feels wrong so I gonna stop it now, thanks the info

 

..I used to drop the firing pin by holding down the trigger while closing the action. I think this slowly sheared the pin down over the years.../QUOTE]

I'm having trouble visualizing how this could be problematic. Can others offer an explanation?

FWIW, I do this on my No. 1s, too. I don't know why I feel compelled to do so. I'm certain the coiled mainspring could stay compressed forever without doing any harm. The Mauser action on one of my sporters was made in 1912. The spring is as good today as it was 101 years ago. Even uncocked, it's under considerable compression.

 

It's my understanding that firearms in the US made since the mid-80's have a firing pin made of stronger material like titanium or such. Therefore it's okay to dry fire center fire firearms(rim fires will peen the chamber). That being said back to the original problem. My #1V in .220 Swift began exhibiting the same problem, light strikes on the primer and FTF. It was because I had sprayed bore solvent foam in the muzzle end and all the sludge and copper fouling had drained back to the breech and down into the block area. Used the "Tech Tips" http://www.ruger.com/resources/videos.html video to disassemble the block and linkage and then took Hoppe's #9 and thoroughly cleaned all the parts, lightly oiled them and reassembled and it's worked fine ever since. Wouldn't hurt to examine your firing pin for breakage while it's apart.