Hi just bought a second-hand single six convertable and found that you could adjust the trigger spring to allow a lighter trigger which I did and had no amount of trouble.
Disassembly was fine but had a bit of difficulty when trying to fire it as the hammer would cock but would not engage the sear, after much playing around I found that when I only put in 2 screws to hold it together to try out the trigger again I found that by not tightening up the screws the trigger would work. I looked inside the back of the grip where the back of the hammer fits (the curved part) and found a couple of burrs that would hold the hammer and stop it from working, success, works fine now.
So when I did the screws up the hammer would jam up and now after a bit of filing, I have a great gun that works fine with a lighter trigger that makes it great to shoot.
I found these instructions on how to adjust the trigger spring:
Adjusting Ruger New Model Trigger Springs.
By J.Michael Cominskie AKA "Uncowboy".
There are 2 things that must be done to make a Ruger Black Hawk action more shootable. Most people go after the mainspring thinking this will lighten the pull but it slows the hammer fall and makes the gun harder to hit with. I recomend the hammer spring be left factory. The sear engagement (Where the hammer touches the trigger should be reduced by 50% in most cases. This should come off of the hammer. Never change the angle where the trigger engages the hammer. Once you reduce the engagement of the hammer this will reduce take up and give the trigger a cleanner break. (*This is best left to a person competent at this task)
The next thing that should be done is that the trigger return spring should be reduced in strength. THIS IS WHAT LOWERS THE FELT PULL WEIGHT.
The Ruger Black Hawk is unique in that you do not have to disassemble the entire gun to get to the trigger return spring. First remove your Stocks or grip pannles , Second unhook the trigger return springs legs from the gripframe pin, Next tap out the trigger return retaining pin. NOTE: This requires very little effort. Next slide out the trigger return spring and start your alterations.
#1The way I do this is a two step bend. First the trigger return spring has two ends, One is looped and rides on the flat of the trigger pushing down to reset the trigger when pulled reward, The other end is what hooks onto the gripframe pin and loads the spring. We will work on both of these ends. First thing to do is to put a bend on the looped part of the spring. The reason for this is to lessen the contact the spring has on the trigger,When done right the springs looped end will be the ONLY part touching the trigger. We want to do this in a way that will put air between the spring and the REAR END of the trigger. This end of the trigger must lift the entire spring when the trigger is pulled reward, This multiplies the pull weight of the spring. By eliminating the rear trigger contact of the spring the springs contact mearly resets the trigger. Your creap will be reduced when the contact between the rear fo the trigger and the spring is eliminated.
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#2The next part is to adjust the PULL WEIGHT of your action. This is done by bending the hooked ends of the trigger return spring in equal amounts . By bending the spring hooks upward you will loosen the spring tension. Note: A little goes a long way! You can pop it in the gun and weigh your action. If you desire it lighter bend the springs some more, If you went to far Remove some of the bend. Test the gun before shooting by dry fireing it and cocking it fast. If the hammer slips you went too far and you must add more spring tension. Ruger will sell you trigger springs so buy a few and pratice your bends you will get it in no time.
The information presented in this article assumes familiarity with basic gunsmithing and safe gun handling principles. The use of improper procedures may result in the creation of dangerous conditions and may result in severe injury or death. Any questions should be referred to a competent gunsmith. Neither the author nor Cylindersmith.com assumes any liability whatsoever for the readers application or use of any of the information contained herein and all work is done at the sole risk and expense of the reader.
Disassembly was fine but had a bit of difficulty when trying to fire it as the hammer would cock but would not engage the sear, after much playing around I found that when I only put in 2 screws to hold it together to try out the trigger again I found that by not tightening up the screws the trigger would work. I looked inside the back of the grip where the back of the hammer fits (the curved part) and found a couple of burrs that would hold the hammer and stop it from working, success, works fine now.
So when I did the screws up the hammer would jam up and now after a bit of filing, I have a great gun that works fine with a lighter trigger that makes it great to shoot.
I found these instructions on how to adjust the trigger spring:
Adjusting Ruger New Model Trigger Springs.
By J.Michael Cominskie AKA "Uncowboy".
There are 2 things that must be done to make a Ruger Black Hawk action more shootable. Most people go after the mainspring thinking this will lighten the pull but it slows the hammer fall and makes the gun harder to hit with. I recomend the hammer spring be left factory. The sear engagement (Where the hammer touches the trigger should be reduced by 50% in most cases. This should come off of the hammer. Never change the angle where the trigger engages the hammer. Once you reduce the engagement of the hammer this will reduce take up and give the trigger a cleanner break. (*This is best left to a person competent at this task)
The next thing that should be done is that the trigger return spring should be reduced in strength. THIS IS WHAT LOWERS THE FELT PULL WEIGHT.
The Ruger Black Hawk is unique in that you do not have to disassemble the entire gun to get to the trigger return spring. First remove your Stocks or grip pannles , Second unhook the trigger return springs legs from the gripframe pin, Next tap out the trigger return retaining pin. NOTE: This requires very little effort. Next slide out the trigger return spring and start your alterations.
#1The way I do this is a two step bend. First the trigger return spring has two ends, One is looped and rides on the flat of the trigger pushing down to reset the trigger when pulled reward, The other end is what hooks onto the gripframe pin and loads the spring. We will work on both of these ends. First thing to do is to put a bend on the looped part of the spring. The reason for this is to lessen the contact the spring has on the trigger,When done right the springs looped end will be the ONLY part touching the trigger. We want to do this in a way that will put air between the spring and the REAR END of the trigger. This end of the trigger must lift the entire spring when the trigger is pulled reward, This multiplies the pull weight of the spring. By eliminating the rear trigger contact of the spring the springs contact mearly resets the trigger. Your creap will be reduced when the contact between the rear fo the trigger and the spring is eliminated.
#2The next part is to adjust the PULL WEIGHT of your action. This is done by bending the hooked ends of the trigger return spring in equal amounts . By bending the spring hooks upward you will loosen the spring tension. Note: A little goes a long way! You can pop it in the gun and weigh your action. If you desire it lighter bend the springs some more, If you went to far Remove some of the bend. Test the gun before shooting by dry fireing it and cocking it fast. If the hammer slips you went too far and you must add more spring tension. Ruger will sell you trigger springs so buy a few and pratice your bends you will get it in no time.
The information presented in this article assumes familiarity with basic gunsmithing and safe gun handling principles. The use of improper procedures may result in the creation of dangerous conditions and may result in severe injury or death. Any questions should be referred to a competent gunsmith. Neither the author nor Cylindersmith.com assumes any liability whatsoever for the readers application or use of any of the information contained herein and all work is done at the sole risk and expense of the reader.
