There is a small screw on the underside of the release - the hole below your file in the photo. It may help to refer to the exploded parts view in the manual. Remove the screw which has a threaded portion and above a smooth area that works like a pivot pin. Once you remove the screw you should be able to work the release out of the frame. There is a spring inside that you have to work with but it's not too difficult.


I didn't have a screwdriver that fit the hole so I took a small one I had and ground down the sides to fit. Ruger usually uses some blue thread locker so I always heat up the frame in that area with a hair dryer or heat gun first before trying to back out the screw. As always use care not to bubba up your gun.

 

DON'T...................Unless there is some unforeseen reason that I didn't catch? So you get those two parts out, a screw with a turned pivot tip and the cylinder latch lever? Trust me, there are indeed two parts in there, but unless something doesn't work right, there is no need to disassemble. The screw has a slotted head that goes from the hole's thread to the other side hole's thread. In other words, when you get a possibly ill fitting driver in there and meet some difficulty (loctite in use) not only the screw head, but the holes threads could both become damaged. Just trust me on that (I won't tell you how I know this) and unless you get it back with sufficient goop, I have seen others previously removed cylinder latches shoot out and lost forever in the dirt. Not a good scenario to say the least. Smithy.

 

He's planning to bead blast. I've bead blasted a number of Ruger revolvers and it does help keep the media out of hard to clean places if you remove the latch. I haven't had any issues with removal and disassembly but the latch is a little fussy to get in and out sometimes after the screw/pivot pin is removed. I've felt it was no more difficult than completely tearing down the cylinder/yoke assembly but that's just my opinion based on my own limited experience with maybe a half dozen examples.

Definitely heat up the area to soften the loctite. It's the same loctite used on the cylinder assembly to remove the LH threaded screw. It can be hard to break loose without a little heat.

It's your gun, your project and your call. You've heard both sides of the do/don't so it's up to you. Good luck in whatever you decide and happy tinkering.

 

Whoops! That's what happens when you get old, hard of sight, and simple. Didn't catch the bead blast part and yes get it out, only be careful on screwdriver selection because I've dinged a couple over the years. Not terminal, but a pain waiting for the replacement. I'll crawl back into my hole now, carry on. Smithy.

 

No worries Smithy. I wouldn't remove it either unless bead blasting, Cerakoting, etc. No need for just routine maintenance - if it ain't broke don't fix it..... At least the OP has been properly cautioned to exercise care.

 

It came out just fine. Had a proper screwdriver already, went slow, kept pressure and it came out just fine.

My SP101 is from the late 90’s and there wasn’t any blue loctite....but I may put a drop of it on the threads when I reassemble.

Also, gonna blast it with 220grit ALOX instead of beads. So I really needed to et the latch out.

Gonna need a LOT of taping!!

 

Hello,

How did you get the cylinder release re-installed? I am having an impossible time getting the release back in the housing with the spring. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!