No loctite needed. Use a drop of machine oil or assembly lube on the threads. The screws will torque down more evenly with better engagement for the same applied torque and hold tight indefinitely. The assembly lube along with careful and accurate torquing of the screws will yield better results than loctite. Loctite will prevent the screws from backing out but that is not the same as holding the parts together because the biggest problem there is steel parts inserted into and threaded into AL. The greater expansion co-efficient of AL means that when the receiver gets warm the parts will want to separate.

One great thing about the AL bull barrels is that once installed and shot for a while they are so tight you can't even rotate them with the v-block removed much less have the barrel loose to the receiver. They essentially become on piece of AL and couldn't be any more rigid and stable if you TIG welded the barrel to the receiver.

I don't know if you pillar bedded the take down bolt and v-block or not. However, either way you will probably be wise to bed the barrel for the first two inches in the stock forward of the v-block. Otherwise you are very likely to have a barreled action that wants to teeter on the v-block mount. Especially with an extra heavy and extra long steel bull barrel.

People will nay say the following but I highly recommend it. Bed the barrel (at least two inches but as much as you like) with RTV. It works great. It is extremely fast, cheap, easy, effective and easily removed if you don't like the results. I use blue masking tape to line the fore end channel to make it easy to remove 100% of the bedding any time you want.

 

ZommyGun,

Thank you for your response. I really appreciate it.

My Boyd's Tacticool stock arrived yesterday and I don't know if it was just plain luck but the action did fit snugly, giving a free-floating barrel, with no signs of "teeter-tottering."

I guess only time will tell how well this set-up will work. I'll be taking it shooting in a couple of weeks. I'm very excited.

Thanks again.

 

As stated Loctite is not necessary however there are differing views on V block tightness. I use a very reliable torque wrench and don't exceed 20 in lbs on V blocks
Ruger,at one time recommended 20 in lbs for V blocks and 30 for the stock screw. I torque my stock screws to varying inch lbs based on each 1022. Usually between 18-28 in lbs. The torque sweet spot can be found based on group sizes at varying in lbs.