Thre three public ranges I shoot at here in Nor Cal all provide the same targets.
They are 21"X24" with a center black target of 8 "
It might be the same where you plan to shoot

 

I use 8 x 11 printer paper. For 100 yards, I tape two together.

 

I buy a pack of 9" paper plates and place a 1.5" stick on spot in the middle...

 

Since I practice mostly with my CC, I use paper plates with different size stickies. Paper plates are cheap relative to printer ink on paper, particularly large color areas. When sighting in and adjusting sights and longer distance I'll use 11x14 targets with grids particularly with multiple grids of four corners and middle.

 

Here is a useful linky:

Targets for Download and Printing within AccurateShooter.com

 

I picked up a roll of brown paper put it on a spool in the garage.
Use 1 inch squares of red duct tape
make my own, built my own rang in my back field
works great

 

It kinda depends on the distance you are shooting from also. The farther away you are, the harder that 8" target gets!

I recently saw a tip that would have been good for me starting out. Choose an area (such as the paper plate) and just count hits or misses. Don't get worked up as to whether you are in the 10-ring or the 2-ring or whatever. You can go crazy trying to hit the bull. If you are using the splatter targets (those are fun!) just work on hitting the paper at first until you are comfortable with the firearm.

 

I like the advice given. I usually just use printer paper. I will print some off the internet or I will draw a few up. I will buy targets- splatter or huge ones with body silhouettes or zombies, but I am cheap, so I usually stick to printer paper. I also enjoy shooting cans

 

When shooting paper at the range I use two of the big red grids they sell at the range for $.25ea...I put both taped on at the same time so as to have lots of clean targets to shoot at due to having to wait for cease fire to put out new targets...

In the field alone shooting at paper I use sheets of computer paper with a 1/4" black dot inside a 1" circle with a vertical/horizontal cross...

You can simply take computer paper and with a pencil and straight edge draw crosses spaced 2" apart...or a 1" grid...then take a heavy permanent marker and make a dot, circle and cross big enough to see and then some...

All you need is a black center dot big enough to see at the distance you are shooting on a white background...

Another quick and easy target is a 3"x3" yellow post it...take your heavy marker and draw a line corner to corner to make an X or cross...put a dot in the middle...

If you shoot a large circle with no center spot or cross to line up on your groups are not going to be as tight and your aiming is not going to be as disciplined...

Try to hit the smallest spot you can see...it makes for better practice...they call it "shooting small"... go figure...

Now all of the above assumes you are shooting from a rest and attempting to shoot tight groups which imo is the only reason to shoot at paper... reactive targets / plinking is way more fun but it's best to do all your sighting in on paper from a good rest if possible...

My three favorite reactive targets are golf balls, spent shotgun shells, and I have one of those little small bore steel flip up gizmos...

 

Start at about 50' or 15 yards. As someone suggested, use a 8" or 9" paper plate with an aiming dot in the center that you can see at that distance.

 

Or you could go to the "Range Forum" on this website(under NCO Club) & print out the many PDF targets we have . The Luckygunner website has free targets also. Remember, have fun, be safe & Google is your friend!

 

These are all good ideas. I do not disagree with a one.
I do not know your range SOP so I assume you can
use most any target.

I think you are on the right track with the sheet of typing paper.
I have found plain to be better than marked for beginner instruction.

IMHO tips.

Start at 15 yards
Small dot any color if you like but you will concentrate more without one.
Always keep the same site picture. Center of paper is best.
At first, don’t worry about hitting the center. Try and keep the group tight. It
does not matter where on the paper it hits. You are trying for small groups and
do not shoot more than five rounds before checking your groups. This makes for
easier correction.
Learn how to use the sights and use this to correct you grouping NOT your point of Aim.
As your group gets smaller you can increase your distance. At increased distances the dot
becomes a better idea.

If you know experienced shooters ask for their help. There are many additional techniques but at first simple is best and more fun.

Hope this helps a little.
Good luck and fun and Safe shooting

 

A little off your original question, but you mentioned that you were getting a scope. Once you become comfortable with your 10/22 and have your scope properly mounted, consider zeroing the weapon at 35 yards. Use a rest or bench to support/steady it and zero. There are plenty of web sites out there on how to mount and zero the rifle. Zeroing at 35 yards gives a +/- 1/2" point of impact from 15 yards to about 55 yards.

 

I dont think 8" diameter of targets you have is too small.

I use these paper plates which are 9" diameter.

Both takedowns were zeroed long ago, I just shoot paper periodically to check continuity.

Reactive targets are more fun, I shoot paper every couple months though.

Takedown 11100 with Leupold 4x scope & TD 11112 using irons , standing.

IMO if you master iron sights first, a scope will be a breeze.

Lot of good suggestions so far, some I will try.

 

Here is another target you may want to consider. I recently ran across this website and it sparked my interest.

and can be found at Targets

They appear to present a challenge and may prove useful in honing skills.

 

I use these. You can make your targets any size you like.

Print Shooting Targets | Make your own Shooting Targets, Printable PDF Download.

 

After each trip to the range, I keep all of my targets. I use 8 1/2 x 11 with 3" black center and 1" concentric circles. I pre-punch them and keep them in a 3 ring binder.

Each target is identified with the date, gun, ammo type and amount, distance, corrected lenses or uncorrected, supported or unsupported, slow or rapid fire, single or double action, etc.

This provides a compact reference book with all types of data to track my accuracy with different guns or ammo or distance or double action etc and that helps me see what my training needs are and if they're working.

 

I have downloaded many targets from online sources and print them out on 8x11 paper. Some ranges in my area do not allow this and make you pay for theirs, I do not go to those.

 

I use WalMart paper plates, the grease resistent ones and a Magic Marker for anything under 50yards. I use the grease resistent once to check my bullet speeds.

I don't print my own because of the cost.