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Recipe for Ruger American Iron Sights aside from Nodak Spud

26K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  db87  
#1 · (Edited)
I just set up my Ruger Americans with iron sights to backup the scopes. I had to replace the rails on two of my older ones as those had an odd space of the slots that would only accommodate items with a single recoil lug.

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I switched scope rings, which have three lugs each, and the iron sights, which also take up three slots. The newer Ruger rails are picatinny with perfectly even spacing but are also considerably higher than the original ones. That extra height made it necessary to find different rear sights.

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I originally used the UTG-910 Shotgun sight on the rear paired with the Nodak Spud front sight.

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That worked fine on one of my rifles, but Nodak Spud seems to have disappeared and for my second rifle I went with the UTG-722 shotgun front sight, which fits around many muzzle devices. I used a YMC Phantom flash hider. This front sight is well made except for the provided tightening screw, which will snap under moderate pressure -- just get a slightly smaller-thread bolt at the hardware store that will travel loosely through the threads and use a nut and lock washer.

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That worked with the UTG-910 Shotgun sight, but only with the lower, original Ruger rail. The newer picatinny rail set the rear sight too far above the front sight and I could barely get on paper.

There are quite a few rear sights for picatinny rail, but most are too high to pair with the UTG-722 front sight. I found two options that seemed to be low enough, the NECG ghost ring:

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And the Kel-Tec SU-16 rear peep:

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The NECG was on back order so I went with the Kel-Tec, which was also less than half the price.

The Kel-Tec rear peep is excellent. For the UTG, the height from rail to center of the peep is 0.454" at the lowest elevation adjustment. The Kel-Tec, which has only windage adjustment, is ~0.300" from rail to center of peep. That reduction in height was just enough to compensate for the higher picatinny rail.

To get the scopes to clear the rear sights requires high scope rings, at least 0.75" saddle height, or 1.25" from rail to center of a 1" scope. I found only two rings that fit that bill that were also quick detach, the UTG Accu-Synch:

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And the Burris Xtreme Tactical:

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I went with the UTG as they are true "quick-detach" and not nearly as bulky as the Burris. I put those on both a .308 and 7.62x39 Ruger American and they held perfect zero even after being removed and replaced several times. They're very nicely constructed. Yes, they're made in China, but everything I've purchased from UTG has been high quality and I guarantee that 90% of the accessories sold on www.shopruger.com are also made in China.

The high scope rings force a hybrid cheek-jaw weld and require a riser of some sort. It's a bit of a compromise; if you use riser that provides a perfect cheek weld, it will be too high to get a line of sight with the irons. I used some pipe insulation wrapped with black vet tape and covered with a buttstock pouch:

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While a little awkward at first, I got accustomed quickly and was shooting 1" groups comfortably. When using the iron sights, it's a deep cheek weld. It's an acceptable compromise, especially if used for an all-around-everything gun.

There is another option, the Skinner peep sight extended rail made especially for the Ruger American:


The Skinner does require gunsmithing. While the sight radius for the iron sights isn't ideal, the rail does allow for low QD scope rings which brings the Scope down closer to the bore and provides a better cheek weld. The guy in the video doesn't seem to have any trouble ringing steel at 100 yards with the shorter sight radius. I highly recommend anything made by Skinner.

Skinner also makes rear sights threaded in 6-48 that attached directly to the receiver without gunsmithing, but that would eliminate the picatinny rail and the use of a scope. I guess a rail could be cut down and mounted with the three front holes to accommodate a scope.

So how much does this all cost? It seems that whichever way you go -- Nodak Spud, my recipe, or Skinner -- all said and done, with gunsmithing when required, it's about $200. My cost list, including shipping where applicable, is below:

-- New picatinny rail, $25 (not necessary with newer models as they already come with that rail).
-- UTG-722 front sight, $25
-- Kel-Tec SU-16 peep, $45
-- UTG Accu-Synch 1" high scope rings, $65
-- YHM Phantom Flash Hider, $50
-- Innovative Industries 5/8-24 jam nut, $14

The Skinner extended peep rail is $149, plus shipping and gunsmithing.

I hope this helps somebody. If Nodak Spud ever comes back online again, I would recommend them over everything above as their stuff is top quality, doesn't require gunsmithing, and designed especially for these rifles.

Oh, and another plug for Promag 10-round magazines. I wasted so much time and effort trying to make the garbage Ruger brand 10-rounders work. Those terrible magazines almost made me give up on the rifle. The Promags have worked perfectly and now the Ruger American, with its high-reliability and excellent accuracy, is my go-to rifle.
 
#3 ·
You're welcome and thank you for the compliment. Is it possible for you to get a picatinny rail and cut it down to fit in front of your Skinner rear sight? The front three screws should be strong enough. In one of their videos, Nodak Spud said as much as their rear sight rail uses only the front three screws, the most rearward fourth being covered up by the peep sight. It would probably take about a half hour of cutting and sanding and refinishing. I almost went that way but had more than one rifle to do and wanted to get it done asap.
 
#5 ·
That is a good set up with the UTG rear and front shotgun sights, same as I had at first. While your mag well is of the more recent issues, it looks like you have the earlier, lower rail on your rifle. That UTG rear sight won't work with the front sight sitting on top of the newer, higher rail that comes on more recent rifles. Have to go with something lower. It's a shame as that UTG sight is an excellent design with both windage and elevation adjustments.
 
#6 ·
XS has a low mount Weaver peep available. I did not know the rails were higher on the new ones. This one has a spare stock that has been converted to Pmag AK mags. I still have the original stock and a Mini 30 I need mags for. I have 4 of the 10 round Promags and 4 of the Ruger 10 round mags. I have fixed 2 of the Ruger mags and will fix the other 2 when it cools down. The 10 round AK mags only cost about $10 but they are a little large. The difference in cost paid for the conversion.
 
#7 ·
The XS sights look nice. The addition of the elevation adjustment seems worth the extra money. I do like the protective wings on the Kel Tec peep but no elevation adjustment. I guess you can't have it all. It's too bad the UTG peep is too high as well as discontinued; it's really an excellent sight. The new Ruger picatinny rails are nice, but their extra height make limit the options for iron sights.

How did you fix the Ruger mags? I did the AK/VZ58 spring swap and while it improved them, they're still only 8-rounders. At first, it seemed that they were fixed but then they started acting up again. Maybe the springs took a little set and got just weak enough to nosedive rounds 9 and 10. They may require new AK/VZ58 springs with an additional coil or two, but I'm so sick of those garbage Ruger mags that I don't want to deal with them anymore. The Promags not only work 100%, but they're much beefier and more robust than the flimsy Ruger ones.

The AK magwell conversion looks nice. Seems a good way to go.
 
#9 ·
I've done simpler fills and repairs on plastic parts with super glue and baking soda. It's sets really hard to the touch but is pretty brittle and I don't think it would work for this situation. I've read that using graphite instead of baking soda is far stronger. What kind of graphite did you use? Did you build a dam or frame with tape? Do your modified Ruger magazines now work 100% like the Promags?

You'd think that after decades of no-tilt followers that Ruger would get a bright idea and do this in the first place.
 
#10 ·
Pure graphite powder. I used masking tape to form a partial mold. It dries really hard. I let it sit for a couple days before using the 1st one. Ran 30 rounds in the Mini 30 with no hiccups. I sent a picture to Ruger. They really need to redesign the follower.
 
#11 ·
Looks like there is another option for irons:



Haven't tried them (issue solved in my case) but they look good and the prices are reasonable.
 
#13 ·
There is another option, the Skinner peep sight extended rail made especially for the Ruger American:

The Skinner does require gunsmithing. While the sight radius for the iron sights isn't ideal, the rail does allow for low QD scope rings which brings the Scope down closer to the bore and provides a better cheek weld. The guy in the video doesn't seem to have any trouble ringing steel at 100 yards with the shorter sight radius. I highly recommend anything made by Skinner.

Skinner also makes rear sights threaded in 6-48 that attached directly to the receiver without gunsmithing, but that would eliminate the picatinny rail and the use of a scope. I guess a rail could be cut down and mounted with the three front holes to accommodate a scope.

So how much does this all cost? It seems that whichever way you go -- Nodak Spud, my recipe, or Skinner -- all said and done, with gunsmithing when required, it's about $200. My cost list, including shipping where applicable, is below:

-- New picatinny rail, $25 (not necessary with newer models as they already come with that rail).
-- UTG-722 front sight, $25
-- Kel-Tec SU-16 peep, $45
-- UTG Accu-Synch 1" high scope rings, $65
-- YHM Phantom Flash Hider, $50
-- Innovative Industries 5/8-24 jam nut, $14

The Skinner extended peep rail is $149, plus shipping and gunsmithing.
Oh Great!!! That Skinner looks great. Now resisting the RAR in 7.62X39 is getting to be very hard. I was kicking around "Scoutifying" one. Have to wait for the RAR vII to see if the barrel diameter is different. I do like my Ruger Scout 6822 in .308.

I thank you for your very detailed and well illustrated descriptions and analyses.
 
#14 ·
You're welcome. Yes, the Skinner is a good solution. I have other sights from them and the quality is terrific.

I looked in again on the Wiland sights mentioned at the end of the thread and they seem even more promising. They have a clamp-on front sight with a 0.750" diameter and the barrel on my Ranch is 0.747". That would eliminate the need for a muzzle device, although I do love the YHM Phantom. Also, Wiland has different heights of front sights, making it easier to find a rear sight that works.
 
#15 ·
Resurrection of an old post for my first I know. It’s the reason I joined though.
I’ve learned that a Ruger gunsite scout front sight sleeves just over the front of a .300 aac barrel at 0.710” on my 300 aac at least. set with Loktite 620 then drill and pin as Ruger does. The rear is a skinner scout rail with the “scout” portion cut off as I don’t believe a scout scope is any good in todays world. I looked everywhere else and aside from buying from skinner since Dr. Skinner made me sights in his garage, Skinner is the only one I found that was clean, low, and fit the height measurement.
Thats my recipe for irons on an American Ranch. The 5.56 barrel I have is 0.670 at the thread protector, so, i‘m going to get a mini-30 front sight (0.625”) and ream it to size then do the same as above with it.
Hope this helps some.
 

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