gqucool, Thanks for your post .... I'm glad to hear a Ruger supplied scope base will work, however I still think a multi-slot UTG base will provide more options for eye relief. If the Bug-Buster had a longer tube where it could be moved back and forth, it wouldn't be an issue.
I don't want to start some sort of brand war or bash UGT BugBuster scopes .... I just want to apply some common sense to the situation.
Let's start with the very purpose of a 10/22 Take Down .... it is NOT a match grade rifle intended for precision target shooting .... rather it was designed to be a field grade plinker and a small game hunting rifle. Like most field grade 22 LR rifles in this class, it's primary range is from 20 to 60 yards ... maybe 70 yards tops. Yes, it can shoot much farther but the ballistic characteristics of a 22 LR cartridge place a lot of limits on downrange accuracy. These include bullet drop and wind drift that are products of a slow bullet with a poor ballistic coefficient. So much for the rifle and ammo.
Variable power scopes were designed to allow the shooter to get an "X - yards" view at any distance within the scope's usable range. For a 22 LR, the usable scope range coincides with the limitations for ammo accuracy. In other words, the useable scope range for a field grade 22 LR rifle is from 20 to 70 yards. The optimum "naked eye view" distance for a 22 LR rifle is 10 yards so each X-magnification is a multiple of 10. This means ... if a target is at 40 yards, the scope should be set on 4X so the view will be the same size as a naked eye view at 10 yards. If the scope's zoom ring is adjusted as recommended, the size of the target will stay the same from the minimum to the maximum magnification .... or from 2x to 7x (20 to 70 yards). If a rifle is upgraded with a match grade barrel and shoots match grade ammo, the magnification of the scope can be increased accordingly. One VERY IMPORTANT ISSUE .... the mechanics of a rifle and the ammunition used in it will determine the ultimate accuracy potential or limitations. A decent scope will merely capitalize on the gun's accuracy potential, however
the best scope in the world will not make a rifle any more accurate than its mechanical and ammo limitations.
Adjustable objective lenses and side dials will adjust the scope for a parallax free view ... assuming you take the time to use them properly. Parallax simply means the scope is adjusted where the cross hairs do not drift off the target when you move your eye in relation to the position of the scope. If parallax is not adjusted properly, the scope may drift as much as a couple inches in the worst case scenario .... which is using the highest magnification at the closest shooting distance (ie: 9x at 20 yards). If the scopes zoom is used properly (1x for each 10 yards) parallax will track quite well from the lowest magnification to the highest without the need for an adjustable objective lens or side dial. If you use a 10/22 for hunting small game, chances are you won't have time to be "knob dickin'" with the side dial and zoom before the critter runs away. For "multi-range" plinking, it's a pain to adjust the side dial each time .... and if you don't .... likely you will miss the target. In all but bench rest shooting, a side dial is usually more of a hindrance than a help.
As a matter of priority, it seems each gun owner determines what he or she thinks is the most important features for a scope. First and foremost ... you have to be honest with yourself and not "what if?" every possible scenario. No one scope can possibly meet every possible want or need. You have to be realistic, practical, and finally .... you have to get some education on optics, match your scope to your rifle, and be considerate of cost.
My priorities for a scope for my 10/22 TD were: Magnification must be 2 ~ 7X. Anything more or less powerful will defeat the purpose of "same size target" within the rifle's usable range. A decent 2~7X scope does NOT need an AO or side dial because parallax will track quite well when the zoom is set for the distance (ie 2x at 20 yards through 7x at 70 yards).
The reticle must be visible in field and target range conditions. The best universal reticle is a "dual=X" type, which has heavy dark lines on the outside and finer lines in the center. Mil dot reticles are great for snipers or long range target shooters but the dots just disappear in field conditions. Further, if you really want to use mil-dots the way they were designed to be used, they are just too busy for hunting .... by the time you figure out your holdover, Thumper the rabbit is long gone. Mil-dots excel with long range high power rifles but have minimal application for 22 LRs. If you want range estimation, a bullet drop compensator reticle will work much easier and faster.
The optical quality should be very good. I realize ... to get superb optics, you have to spend a lot of money but you can get very bright and clear optics in modestly priced scopes. The size of the objective lens helps determine light transfer through the scope ... along with the optical quality and coatings on the internal lenses.
I refuse to buy a scope that is not ruggedly designed. Granted, a 10/22 is not a high recoil rifle but the G-forces developed when the bolt slams home have been known to demo cheap scopes. The things that give you fits in a cheaper scope are .... the front internal erector tube swivel is nothing more than a rubber "O" ring, whereas in a better quality scope, the front swivel is a polymer ball joint. Rubber "O" rings die of old age or can die in just one day's storage in a car's trunk on a hot day. Of course good turret adjustments and a responsive turret spring are a must to maintain a proper zero.
Cost is important .... I think it would be silly to put a big bucks scope on a field grade rifle ... just as I think it is silly to put a cheap Chinese scope on a perfectly good 10/22. For me, $200 seemed to be affordable yet high enough quality to match the quality of my 10/22 TD. Cost is obviously very debatable .... but just one important thing ... in optics, you never get something for nothing. If an inexpensive scope is loaded with features, high quality won't be one of them.
Length and weight are also issues. You don't want some humongous scope that makes your field grade rifle look like a bear riding a tricycle. I think "sized right" is a good way to state it. As noted in the OP's post, it seems like his priority is size ... so the scoped receiver will fit in the sub-standard Ruger back pack. If that is his priority, then other priorities that favor function may suffer. For the money, a BugBuster is an adequate scope but there are others that are much higher quality yet don't break the bank. One such scope is a Nikon P-Rimfire 2~7X .... however it won't fit in the Ruger bag. Again, I don't want this to turn into a scope war ... just want to list some whys and wherefores. There's a lot more info on scopes in an article I posted in the Forum Library, titled "Scope Dope". Here's a link:
http://rugerforum.net/library/61505-scope-dope.html