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Olight does include a Glock rail adapter but, the issue is this. My Olight is rechargeable and quick release which allows me to swap it from gun to gun with simply flipping open the single release/locking lever.
The older Glocks have the proprietary Glock rail. Gen5 Glocks have the 1913 rail. I didn't realize this until I bought a holster that depends on the Olight Balador S to stabilize the pistol. If the Glock adapter is in a 1913 rail the Olight/Glock is lose in the holster. I understand the RXM has the 1913 rail.
 
The older Glocks have the proprietary Glock rail. Gen5 Glocks have the 1913 rail. I didn't realize this until I bought a holster that depends on the Olight Balador S to stabilize the pistol. If the Glock adapter is in a 1913 rail the Olight/Glock is lose in the holster. I understand the RXM has the 1913 rail.
That's an Olight QD issue, then? Doesn't happen with my Streamlights, but they attach via screw mount system that can be cranked down.

ETA: And I did not know that about Gen 5 so good on Glock for finally getting with the program 😂
 
Gen 5 and Gen 3 and the the RXM is GEN 3 width, not Gen 5.
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So swapping it to the Glock rail adapter makes it not work anywhere else? The Glock slot is thinner, so I can put the Glock key TLR-1HL or TLR-7A on any Pic 1913 railed handgun, so long as forward/rearward position is good for the handgun I'm swapping to. The Glock adapter size will fit any actual 1913/Picatinny rail slot. Trust me.
The narrower Glock adapter will fit in a 1913 rail, but it lets the light slide forward and backward in larger 1913 rail slots.

The quick-detach mount is an attractive Olight feature. For those who don't mind Streamlight's slower screw attachment, Olight now makes a screw-attachment mount. And for those who want battery replacement, Olight's PL-Mini3 comes with 2 quick-change rechargeable batteries.
 
My apologies. I have heard those two words spoken together from others that both owned and didn't own Glocks that I thought is was a common description of people who loved Glocks. Lots of Ruger Fanboys here on this forum or we wouldn't be posting here. Sorry, I didn't think Glock lovers are that thin skinned.
Again with your derogatory “tone” I own Glocks but Glock is not my favorite brand. How did you come to the incorrect conclusion I’m a Glock lover?
Ruger is my favorite brand but appreciate just about any brand. I own Ruger, Glock, Rossi, Sar, Winchester and Pietta.
I still fail to see how derogatory use of terms furthers the conversation.
 
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Again with your derogatory “tone” I own Glocks but Glock is not my favorite brand. How did you come to the incorrect conclusion I’m a Glock lover?
Ruger is my favorite brand but appreciate just about any brand. I own Ruger, Glock, Rossi, Sar, Winchester and Pietta.
I still fail to see how derogatory use of terms furthers the conversation.
I fail to see why you consider the term "fanboy" derogatory. You can call me a Colt fanboy, PTR fanboy, S&W fanboy, Ruger fanboy, Taurus fanboy, HK fanboy, Canik fanboy, SAR fanboy, Rossi fanboy , and a slew of other brands I own all day long and I won't get the least bit offended. Just like those that say they don't think Olights are very good, that is their opinion and I'm an Olight fanboy who thinks differently. I think Glock triggers suck and is why a lot of Glock owners upgrade the triggers soon after buying them. I almost bought a 19x which would probably have made me a Glock fanboy... just never made the plunge.
 
Ima ar15 fan boy. And a 9x19, 350 Legend, and .223 fan boy. Sometimes, even a rimfire fan boy. An America fanboy, a freedom fanboy, and....
A Ruger fan boy!
I love the sweet smell of cow manure around a dairy farm :love: ..... does that make me a cowpie fanboy? :ROFLMAO:
 
Ima ar15 fan boy. And a 9x19, 350 Legend, and .223 fan boy. Sometimes, even a rimfire fan boy. An America fanboy, a freedom fanboy, and....
A Ruger fan boy!
With yer improved lexicon, you’ve sure stepped past 1989, welcome to 2025! Lolol
Context means a lot.
 
Posted for those interested: It is possible to fit a Langdon Tactical Striker Control Device (*) to the Ruger RXM slide, however it takes some work.

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Cliffs are as follows.

The Ruger Backplate measures approximately 0.089", about the same as Glock backplates. Original Tau SCD flanges are closer to the 0.089 values. If you have an original Tau SCD, it should install in the RXM or Glock, no problem. The opening on the rear of Glock sides are pretty generous, and obviously current SCDs install in Glocks, also no problem.

The problem comes when you try and put an LTT SCD into the RXM slide. The opening for the backplate on the Ruger is more on the order of 0.089". Being 0.097" thick, an LTT SCD will not fit until you file on the sides and top of the SCD. It took me about two hours of work with a Grobet Swiss #2 cut file to remove enough material on the LTT SCD to slide into the Ruger RXM. This was at the "A" (sides) and "B" (top) locations on the SCD backplate, shown below.
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I just wanted to post this for the folks who might be considering adding an LTT Gen 1-4 SCD to the Ruger. It is NOT a drop in part on the RXM.


* If you aren't familiar with the SCD for Glocks, reference the link to the LTT web page, here:

 
Posted for those interested: It is possible to fit a Langdon Tactical Striker Control Device (*) to the Ruger RXM slide, however it takes some work.
If the RXM becomes as popular as it appears to be trending, maybe Langdon Tactical will come up with one that is drop in. You could send them your notes and maybe they will compensate you in some way for your contribution.
 
Just got back from quick range test with my RXM running it dry as new right out of the box. Trigger gauge turns in 5-1/2 lbs consistently here after having run about 50-60 rounds through it at the range.

On a scale of 1-5 on my first session, it scores a 3-1/2 maybe 4 due to some issues I ran into.

My ammo was 124 gr fmj reloads from once fired brass in front of 5 grains Unique. The reloader was a professional reloader and I have shot hundreds of rounds of this same batch with no FTF except for a couple light primer strikes by a different gun I no longer own.

This RXM had 2 FTF in the first 15 rounds and they were not from light primer strikes, but failure to cock/set the striker. I have never experienced that before as the trigger appeared dead when squeezed and yet there was a live round loaded in the chamber from the previous round firing, ejecting, and loading this next round. I checked the extracted round and found zero evidence of a primer strike. I didn't take a lot of time diagnosing the condition except to view the slide was completely in battery, so there was no out of battery condition that I could detect.

2 in the first 15 is not a good number IMO. I experienced it again in about the 8th or 9th batch tested during a rapid fire session. I only loaded and shoot 5 at a time when testing functionality.

The second issue is that the rear sight is causing me to shoot left and the groups appear I was shooting a shotgun with 00 buck at both 7 and 10 yards. I brought along my Canik and my SAR K2 45 and shot both to compare groups. The Canik and K2 45 both shoot much nicer groups and center, so I am rather convinced it is not me, but the Ruger rear sight that need adjusting.

I did not mount my optics yet, but will once I adjust the rear sight with my sight pusher. Not much good in trying to co-witness when the factory set sights are off.

The photo is of 2 5 round defensive rapid fire sessions, one with Speer 124Gr +P Gold Dots, and the other 5 rounds with my 124 FMJ reloads. Point of aim was the red circle of which the holes are from prior shots from the other side of the folder paper. The yellow circle is from the rapid fire sessions which if you count was only 9 round through. One round never got through as it was another FTF which occurred, so that makes 3 FTFs in the first 50 rounds tested. :mad:

Next time I go out, I'll lube and bag this gun and see what kind of groups it gets with factory new Winchester ammo. The rear sight will get moved before then as well. At this time, I will not carry this gun as a SD gun because of the FTFs experienced on the first run. The gun was not out of battery either as I checked it for that. It simply failed to set the striker.

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You should never operatate any Ruger firearms straight out of the box. They come with assembly lube and GSR. Always clean and lube them properly before shooting. I'm sure that will alleviate any issues young had sir.
 
You should never operatate any Ruger firearms straight out of the box. They come with assembly lube and GSR. Always clean and lube them properly before shooting. I'm sure that will alleviate any issues young had sir.
Someone else already stated what I am about to post in reply to your response. Maybe, you're right and Ruger is wrong and if so, someone should let them know before a bunch of other persons follow and believe the manual. I took them for their word since they manufactured the gun.

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You should never operatate any Ruger firearms straight out of the box. They come with assembly lube and GSR. Always clean and lube them properly before shooting. I'm sure that will alleviate any issues young had sir.
Normally, I agree and always clean any factory new firearm. Rugers especially, but the manual does clearly state as @LarryNBoise showed, that they even encourage taking it straight to the range. The grease they applied into it is break in grease. I didn't clean either of my RXMs prior to first firing; the first one I didn't have a chance nor did I know they state this in the manual but figured what the heck. The 2nd, I took straight to the range, as they encourage it. Both guns did run very well.
 
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