Good fix!
Maybe you need to notify Ruger about it.

 

I'll check my security 9.....my early issues were stovepipe and resolved with 124gr ammo. It runs like a top now.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

 

I'll check my security 9.....my early issues were stovepipe and resolved with 124gr ammo. It runs like a top now.

Since you mentioned stovepipes...

One other thing I didn't like about the Security 9 when I first got was that it had more muzzle flip than my M&P Compact 9 which is a very similar sized gun. Comparing the two I saw that the barrel and guide rod/recoil spring assembly on the Ruger were considerably lighter in weight than those on the S&W, so I thought that adding some weight to the front of the Ruger would help with the excessive muzzle flip.

There isn't anything I can do about the barrel weight difference but I decided to replace the hollow guide rod on the Security with a SS solid one to add front end weight. And that did noticeably decrease the muzzle flip, but it also introduced a stovepipe problem that wasn't there before. So I went back to the stock rod, as the light strike issue was more of a concern and needed addressed first.

Once I'd fired enough rounds to feel confident that I'd fixed the light strike problem I switched back to the aftermarket guide rod and so far haven't had any stovepipes. That might just be because the gun is now more broken in than it was the first time I tried that mod.

More testing is on tap but for now it looks like the gun is working great with both 115 and 124 grain bullets. I was very unhappy with this gun but if it continues to perform like it did yesterday I will be turning that frown upside down.

 

OP I loved your story. Congrats to you.

 

mmb617, That's some good trouble shooting and a good fix. This same issue could apply to most any brand or model of pistol.

 

Interesting. I've not experienced this primer cookie cutter effect on any pistol, so it's never occurred to me to pay particular attention to this area before. I don't have a Security 9, but I looked at my American, 9E, a P85 slide, and a couple of different P89 slides I have, and the striker/firing pin holes on all of them looked just like your Security 9 when you first got it; there was no obvious chamfering of this opening in any of them.

I have no idea why this particular gun would do this, while others made in the same way do not. I also wonder if this is unique to your specific pistol or if others will find the same issue (or have found the same issue)? I'm glad you were able to correct the issue with your mod, but it would also have been interesting to see what determinations and fixes Ruger had made, had you sent the gun to them. I agree with dwarren, I would still notify Ruger of the issue and provide them a link to this thread.

 

I looked at my American, 9E, a P85 slide, and a couple of different P89 slides I have, and the striker/firing pin holes on all of them looked just like your Security 9 when you first got it; there was no obvious chamfering of this opening in any of them.

Now that is interesting. I hope I hear from some other Security 9 owners as I'd like to know if they've had any similar issues and exactly how the opening looks in their gun.

It's such a small hole and hard to see but I could tell the edge was real sharp originally. The only thing I had on hand to compare were a S&W Shield and Compact. They are both striker fired instead of hammer fired but that shouldn't matter to the issue at hand. On both of them the firing pin hole is at least relieved of it's sharp edge and they both have an obvious bevel on the bottom part of the hole.

It's probably a matter of only thousandths of an inch and I could maybe have gotten away with less of a chamfer than what I did, but it just seems logical to me that a really sharp edge there is a problem. By my thinking the force of the explosion has to force the spent primer to the rear of it's pocket and when it hits against a sharp edge it will be cut. The degree of "sharp" that will cause a problem on that edge may not be detectable to the naked eye.

it would also have been interesting to see what determinations and fixes Ruger had made, had you sent the gun to them.

The main reason I didn't send the gun in was that I had already installed a trigger and grip sleeve and I didn't want to remove them. And I like to tinker with mechanical devices and felt sure I could eventually trace and fix the problem. Plus I wasn't sure they wouldn't simply tell me to buy better ammo, as I've heard others say that's a common response.

 

Galloway Precision has them.

 

Just ordered one last night....I picked 17 lbs as well. Seemed like the right place to start given that it's the stock value.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

 

They make quality stuff. I put one of their SS recoil spring/quide assemblies (2# over stock) and a SS striker indicator in my 9E, and both have functioned flawlessly.

 

Well, I got the assembled stainless 17 lb spring, went to the range and >cringe< I only has 115gr 9mm ammo. Loaded up the mags and started shooting.....works as well or better than ever. No hangups of any kind.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

Well, I got the assembled stainless 17 lb spring, went to the range and >cringe< I only has 115gr 9mm ammo. Loaded up the mags and started shooting.....works as well or better than ever. No hangups of any kind.

Good to hear it. I've been impressed by everything I've picked up from Galloway. They know what they're doing, for sure.

 

Hi, since no one else posted a pic I figured I could chime in since my sec9 is brand new. Only 200 rounds through it and the hole for the firing pin definitely has a sharp edge. Here is a pic.

 

I guess since this thread got bumped, I don't mind asking. What is all that orange stuff around your firing pin hole? I've never noticed that on my pistol before.

 

I should also add that all 200 rounds went off without a hitch. 115g Sellier & Bellot and some Hornady.

 

Glad to hear yours is working well for you even though it does look similar to what mine did prior to my modification. I'd guess that "sharp edge" is a relative term and it probably doesn't need much at all off that edge to make a difference, so mine may have been sharper.

At any rate I'm happy to say that since I relieved that edge I've had zero problems with my Security 9. I've used CCI, Winchester and Federal primers and all have worked without a hitch.

 

I bought a new Security 9 a few months ago and from day one I had light strike issues with it. Lately it's been 2-3 times per mag which is pretty bad. I was shooting factory Blazer Brass 115's and 124's as well as my reloads and the problem persisted no matter what ammo I used.

I read on a reloading forum that CCI primers were harder than some others so I loaded up some ammo using winchester primers but that didn't help either.

I have 2 Smith & Wesson 9mm's that have no problems with the same ammo that wouldn't run in the Ruger so I was certain the problem was with the gun. I took it to the range yesterday with 4 different combos of primer, charge and bullet weight. None would run without frequent light strikes. And then I noticed something that was the key to solving the riddle.

Every time there was a light strike there was a piece of primer stuck in the firing pin hole. I saved a couple of them:

They are perfect circles like they were punched out by a machine, so that was the clue I needed. When I got home and disassembled the firing pin and spring I could see that the hole the firing pin goes through was completely flat with a sharp edge to it.

I examined both of my Smiths and that same hole on them is chamfered. I think on my Ruger the firing pin ignites a round and when the case is pushed back the sharp edge cuts out that piece of primer which then gets stuck in the hole. Then when the pin tries to fire the next round the debris blocks it and causes the light strike.

I got a small cone shaped stone from my dremel kit and twirled it between my fingers in the hole till I could see a slight chamfer, then polished it up with some 1500 grit sandpaper. If you look close I think you can see the difference in this pic.

I'm happy to say that did the trick! The gun is now working the way it should. I went to the range today and fired 4 different ammos for a total of 103 rounds and didn't have a single problem. It eats factory, it eats reloads, 115 grain, 124 grain, CCI primers, Winchester primers, all of it works. This is how my Smiths have always been. I'm just glad to finally have the Ruger reliable as well.

I would think that the hole should have been chamfered at the factory and a step was missed or something. Anybody examine that hole on their own Ruger, especially if you have a Security 9, as I'm curious?

Mine shoots everything fine except my reloads, when it fails to fire I can put the round in any other 9 and it fires them fine. Think i should do the same?

 

Had the same issue with Herters, every second or third one light strike. never noticed fragments but i'll try again, my solution was not to run Heters in it. It runs everything else fine. read that Herters is a spin-off of S&B and they use a hard primer. did not run S&B through it. More to come...

 

Herter's brass-cased ammo used to be made by S&B, but the current version is loaded by Winchester. Ammo made by S&B will be labeled on the box with S&B as the maker and Czech Republic as the country of origin. I liked the S&B version better than the new Winchester version.

 

My security 9 would misfire with reloads (1) out of (4) rounds, the primers were dinged but no boom. Could take those rounds and put them in my berretta and they went off every time. I chamfered the firing pin hole as I had seen someone else do and now it is 100% with reloads.

 

I just found this thread. I checked my Sig P365 (original version) and my Springfield 1st generation XDs. The P365 has a round firing pin hole that has a slight chamfer and the XDs has an oval opening that also has a slight chamfer.

 

I bought a new Security 9 a few months ago and from day one I had light strike issues with it. Lately it's been 2-3 times per mag which is pretty bad. I was shooting factory Blazer Brass 115's and 124's as well as my reloads and the problem persisted no matter what ammo I used.

I read on a reloading forum that CCI primers were harder than some others so I loaded up some ammo using winchester primers but that didn't help either.

I have 2 Smith & Wesson 9mm's that have no problems with the same ammo that wouldn't run in the Ruger so I was certain the problem was with the gun. I took it to the range yesterday with 4 different combos of primer, charge and bullet weight. None would run without frequent light strikes. And then I noticed something that was the key to solving the riddle.

Every time there was a light strike there was a piece of primer stuck in the firing pin hole. I saved a couple of them:

They are perfect circles like they were punched out by a machine, so that was the clue I needed. When I got home and disassembled the firing pin and spring I could see that the hole the firing pin goes through was completely flat with a sharp edge to it.

I examined both of my Smiths and that same hole on them is chamfered. I think on my Ruger the firing pin ignites a round and when the case is pushed back the sharp edge cuts out that piece of primer which then gets stuck in the hole. Then when the pin tries to fire the next round the debris blocks it and causes the light strike.

I got a small cone shaped stone from my dremel kit and twirled it between my fingers in the hole till I could see a slight chamfer, then polished it up with some 1500 grit sandpaper. If you look close I think you can see the difference in this pic.

I'm happy to say that did the trick! The gun is now working the way it should. I went to the range today and fired 4 different ammos for a total of 103 rounds and didn't have a single problem. It eats factory, it eats reloads, 115 grain, 124 grain, CCI primers, Winchester primers, all of it works. This is how my Smiths have always been. I'm just glad to finally have the Ruger reliable as well.

I would think that the hole should have been chamfered at the factory and a step was missed or something. Anybody examine that hole on their own Ruger, especially if you have a Security 9, as I'm curious?

 

sec 9 failure to fire

Approximately 200 round fired flawlessly, no failures of any type. I used brass case fmj, mostly 124gr X-force, sometimes 115gr CCI, rarely aluminum case, all without issue. I recently purchased Sellier and Bellot (S&B), 124 gr brass fmj. Every other round is a failure to fire, although after...

www.rugerforum.net

 

I just got back from the range with my security nine and I had two light primer strikes. Both times they were with blazer brass 115 grain. I’ve noticed this has happened in the past with the 115 grain. I have never had a problem with 124 grain which is what I use around 80% of the time. Now I do have the Galloway precision trigger on my security nine. And I’ve also heard different spring rates can affect things when it comes to light primer strikes. Has anyone else had this happen in the past. And honestly it was just two rounds out of 110. And only with the 115 graim. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

 

I've shot over 1,000 rounds of 115g in my Security9. Never had a light strike other than using Federal Syntec (see other thread). I do sometimes shoot Blazer brass 115 and never had an issue. I have the stock Ruger trigger.

 

Measured the firing pin protrusion? Can that be done easily?

 

Below is my post regarding sec9 FTF, light primer strikes. You my find it useful to read that post. sec 9 failure to fire

[Approximately 200 round fired flawlessly, no failures of any type. I used brass case fmj, mostly 124gr X-force, sometimes 115gr CCI, rarely aluminum case, all without issue.
I recently purchased Sellier and Bellot (S&B), 124 gr brass fmj. Every other round is a failure to fire, although after chambering, there is full battery and a cocked hammer that drops. I was so shocked that after removing the round I did not examine the primer center for firing pin indentation. I reloaded the same round, slingshoted or slide dropped to chamber the failed round, and it fired. The next round did the same thing and so on. I used the same box of ammo in a tisas px-9 and an Arex zero compact with no failures. I have cleaned and oiled before I fire again. I examined the tip of the firing pin and adjacent frame for debris, but found none. The gun was not very dirty. I pushed the back of the firing pin forward with a wooden dowel and the tip looks fine with no carbon debris. The spring is very strong, so this is difficult.
Is there anything about S&B primer that is not handled well by ruger sec9, american made, but is well tolerated by tisas and arex, both European made?
Anyone have firing pin issues?
Any suggestions other than contact ruger support? ]

I have had no problems with blazer brass 115, or wth YTR 124, only S&B, and the S&B fires fine in my other pistols. No problem since I stopped using S&B. My firing pin hole looks just like yours, sharp, but no debris in the hole after firing. After each range trip I inspect the hole and find nothing.

 

Below is my post regarding sec9 FTF, light primer strikes. You my find it useful to read that post. sec 9 failure to fire

[Approximately 200 round fired flawlessly, no failures of any type. I used brass case fmj, mostly 124gr X-force, sometimes 115gr CCI, rarely aluminum case, all without issue.
I recently purchased Sellier and Bellot (S&B), 124 gr brass fmj. Every other round is a failure to fire, although after chambering, there is full battery and a cocked hammer that drops. I was so shocked that after removing the round I did not examine the primer center for firing pin indentation. I reloaded the same round, slingshoted or slide dropped to chamber the failed round, and it fired. The next round did the same thing and so on. I used the same box of ammo in a tisas px-9 and an Arex zero compact with no failures. I have cleaned and oiled before I fire again. I examined the tip of the firing pin and adjacent frame for debris, but found none. The gun was not very dirty. I pushed the back of the firing pin forward with a wooden dowel and the tip looks fine with no carbon debris. The spring is very strong, so this is difficult.
Is there anything about S&B primer that is not handled well by ruger sec9, american made, but is well tolerated by tisas and arex, both European made?
Anyone have firing pin issues?
Any suggestions other than contact ruger support? ]

I have had no problems with blazer brass 115, or wth YTR 124, only S&B, and the S&B fires fine in my other pistols. No problem since I stopped using S&B. My firing pin hole looks just like yours, sharp, but no debris in the hole after firing. After each range trip I inspect the hole and find nothing.

Thank you I appreciate the feedback.

 

I recently purchased a Security 9 compact. I like the size and capacity, and it fits my hands well.
My first trip to the range was a real disappointment with 5 misfires out of 100 rounds caused by light firing pin strikes.
Afterwards I cleaned the gun, and I manually moved the firing pin inside its assembly for a few minutes, using a plastic toothbrush handle to prevent any damage. I couldn't see anything strange in the firing pin assembly.
During my 2nd trip to the range, I had no misfires of 100 rounds using a combination of the previous and a different brand 115 grain range ammo. The spent casings showed a much better firing pin indention on the primer than before.
I'm not suggesting anything I did helped. But the firing pin is striking harder than it was the first outing. I'm satisfied the pistol is reliable for use as my EDC gun.

 

I’m glad you got your situation resolved. It’s funny, some people have issues, and others have 100% reliability right out of the box. I guess variability is all part of the game with this.

 

 

How long do snap caps usually last? Do they wear out with time, and need to be replaced after a few thousand dry fires? Just curious. Thanks!

 

They do "wear out" for some uses. And depends on the use as to how long they will last. What they are made of matters too. Your firearms chamber and internals are hardened steel. Snap caps are softer. And a solid replica gets dinged by your firing pin (hardened steel) over and over. Some are spring loaded but that seems a touch over the top for me.
Mostly I use them for drills to clear and keeping your flinch in check by mixing some in. And sometimes function check

 

A very good test on 9 mm light strikes is to take a pencil a full size pencil with a good eraser cock the hammer be sure it's unloaded and rest the eraser at the end of the barrel on the breach when you pull the trigger it should knock that pencil about 3 ft in the air I had a Kimber it would just barely knock it out of the barrel when I change the spring the firing pin return spring that I got from m carbo it fixed it permanently

 

Did you change it to a lighter spring??where did you buy your spring?